GordnadoCRD wrote:
rankom wrote:
before you pull engine out, can you get it running and take some pictures ,,, so we can see it , also start with removing valve cover , check that gasket , remove turbo inspect it ,, remove cylinder head , get that tested , check cylinder liners , pistons etc , are the crosshedges visible ? if yes we go further ,,, if not then it is not worth pulling engine out ,
Hi Rankom
He has already done that.
Here is is old post with his investigations, videos, etc.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=85755&p=903049#p903049Since this he pulled the trans, replaced the RMS and more.. but no change..? Do I have that right, thesameguy?
Yep, that is exactly correct. I'm definitely not going to bother pulling the head off and then find out I still need to pull the block. I would much rather just yank the engine and work on it on a stand rather than spend extra time hunched over an engine bay. Since the timing belt needs to be done, and it's fair to also pre-emptively replace the head gasket and bolts, it's easier just to pull the whole thing, and R&R outside. Well, maybe not actually easier, but less painful.
As I mentioned, I will do a leakdown test prior to taking things apart - with a clean leakdown and an engine that otherwise runs *great* (just really leaky...) I'd have zero reason to suspect or anticipate any bottom end problems.
WWDiesel wrote:
I would think that running the engine with the dye in the oil and using a UV light would be the key in this case to pinpointing the exact location of the leak before taking anything apart.
At least then, you would know with what you are up against and a direction to proceed.
As I mentioned there is already dye in the oil, and that yielded nothing. There is no visible evidence of the leak from the top, only what I see from the bottom. I have tried inspection mirrors and UV lights and there simply is not adequate room behind the head to see anything. I could not figure out a reliable way to use a UV light in combination with a boroscope.
I removed a fair amount out of the engine compartment in the hopes of a better view, but I've been unsuccessful. There simply is not much clearance between the back of the engine and the firewall. I'm hoping that with the engine out, and clear access to the back of the motor I will be able to see those dye traces.
*If* it's the same plug as referenced in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=87677the head's going to have to come off anyway for repair. My intention is to literally replace every plug and fitting on the back of the motor pre-emptively. With a new RMS, HG, VCG, cam seals, and a pile of plugs there should be nothing else to leak, and that represents both relatively little cost *and* fairly reasonable "preventative maintenance."
I do suspect just removing the head would be sufficient - I'm anticipating the leak is coming from up high and not down low, but I simply do not want to risk some fitting or plug on the back of the block being the culprit. Unless someone can say conclusively there is nothing other than the RMS on the block that could be a source of leaks, I'll pull the whole motor.
That Sealey kit looks spot on - thanks!