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 Post subject: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 7:24 pm 
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Greetings all. I have a 2006 CRD. Been fine with the things that normally come up shock, window regulators, normal stuff. Well recently I went out one morning and the battery was dead. mmmmm better throw the charger on it. Did so charged it up. Went back next day dead. scratches head, maybe a new battery is in order. I get one install it and as I am finishing up I hear the door locks trying to lock the doors even though they are locked. Click click about every 5 seconds or so and the remote is now useless to lock or unlock the doors. Ok I put fresh battery in remote. nada. so I then proceeded to pull the fuse for the door locks. Jeep starts all seem good. Went out to check on it after work today yep battery dead. Could it be the body module? demon possession? I am asking for help here. thanks you seem like a bunch of bright people from what I have seen in the past.


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 8:04 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
If you have a multi-meter, pulling fuses to determine current loss is a good idea. It will at least isolate circuts with problems.

Have you looked up the Online FSMs at http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/? It's an excellent resource courtesy of Sir Sam.
Download the 2006 manual and peruse it for Troubleshooting, and the particular wiring diagrams you need to test and trace.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:04 pm 
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I've read about this issue before but I can't find the thread I'm thinking of. But here's another one I found:

LOST JEEPS • View topic - door locks keep automatically locking over and while parked - http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=78256

He cleaned a bunch of corrosion off his battery terminals and the problem stopped happening. That would be an easy thing to check.

Do you have a sunroof? I think I remember someone having some sort of electrical issues from a clogged sunroof drain tube dripping on some electronics under the dash.


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:25 pm 
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New battery going dead while just sitting is a clear indication of a circuit draining a fair amount of power all the time. If you have a good multi-meter then Google like "locate automotive power drain" and see if you can at least locate the circuit. I'm not good but have run into this sort of thing twice - 1) bad glove box switch left inside glove box light on all the time and 2) some sort of weird deal with the passenger side air bag seat sensor. Neither in a CRD. In both cases a local auto electric shop was easily able to find and fix the problem for a reasonable price. In fact the dealer recommended I use such a shop as those shops are better equipped for dealing with this sort of issue.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:50 pm 
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I totally agree, and always check the dreaded wires behind fuel filter head and the ground below and in front of the battery mount.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 6:59 pm 
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Ok, here is what I did today. I put a test light in series with the negative cable to the battery, Got a nice bright light. so I know there is a pretty good drain on the thing. I proceeded to removed one fuse at a time.....nada still bright light. So next idea....pull every relay. Nada. Not too happy right about now pondering my next move. Ideads that don't involve a can of gas and a ligher would be much welcomed. Thanks all


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:57 pm 
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Try disconnecting the alternator. May have a bad diode.

LarryK


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 9:43 pm 
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I'll try that tomorrow thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 1:59 am 
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Make sure you have disconnected the battery before disconnecting the thick wire....and small plug...to the alternator as there is live power there all the time and your spanner could touch onto the engine and cause a serious short.

Also definitely follow the idea of checking the wire harness behind the Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket....check for wire damage causing shorts of the wires there to chassis.

You ideally need to get a cheap Digital Multi-meter to check the current so you actually know what current you are drawing....ideally less than 30 mA ie. 0.030 Amps. :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:40 pm 
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I shall try the fuel head idea tomorrow today I checked with alternator dis-engaged. Still got a bright shiny light, then pulled the battery box and checked the ground under that. Looked good and solid. I will post on the other idea as soon as I get a chance to fiddle with it more thanks for all the suggestions.


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 6:20 pm 
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Using a test light to try and find a amp draw is totally wrong.Anything that saves a "memory" like the PCM and radio still draw full battery power but at very low amps(all together should be under 50ma when everything goes into "sleep mode").

You need to put a digital multi-meter set to amps between the positive cable end and positive battery post when testing for draws.Some higher end low amp clamps work well also so you don't have to take either battery cable off but the good ones start at $200 and go up from there.


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:14 am 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Using a test light to try and find a amp draw is totally wrong.Anything that saves a "memory" like the PCM and radio still draw full battery power but at very low amps(all together should be under 50ma when everything goes into "sleep mode").

You need to put a digital multi-meter set to amps between the positive cable end and positive battery post when testing for draws.Some higher end low amp clamps work well also so you don't have to take either battery cable off but the good ones start at $200 and go up from there.


Yeah I totally agree with this^^^^.

Best to buy a cheap digital Multi meter....no need for a fantastically accurate meter like the Fluke that I use. Just make sure that you are in AMPS mode on the meter and the meter leads are in the correct position and do not try start the motor or you will blow a fuse in the meter! :shock:


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:21 pm 
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Well I think I found the issue this afternoon. It seems there was a remote starter on this thing once upon a time. Next I am going to try and remove it and see what happens. Or maybe I am wrong I will see tomorrow.


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:53 pm 
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Well I finally finished up taking all the car alarm/remote start out of the jeep. that solved the doors locking and un locking themselves ever few seconds, but now it will crank but not start.....sigh back to trying to locate the new issue! Sorry it took so long to update but the weather has not been very conducive to working outdoors in the driveway!


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 4:50 am 
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Musemguy1956 wrote:
Well I finally finished up taking all the car alarm/remote start out of the jeep. that solved the doors locking and un locking themselves ever few seconds, but now it will crank but not start.....sigh back to trying to locate the new issue! Sorry it took so long to update but the weather has not been very conducive to working outdoors in the driveway!


If you have removed the car alarm system you have possibly killed the SKIS anti-theft operation!

You should have a red LED on the LHS of the cluster which is the SKIS LED.
This should light up when ignition is first turned ON then should go out within a few seconds if the ECM is happy with the chipped code that the SKIM module on the top of the steering column reads and sends up to the ECM.

If the LED light does not go out but flashes then the ECM is not happy with the chipped code sent from the SKIM module....engine will fire up but will cut out after a few seconds.

If the LED is ON all the time then the ECM is happy with the code it received from the SKIM module but is not happy that the ASD relay has not reported back to the ECM that it...the ASD relay....has energized. The motor will turn over but not fire.

So first check if this LED stays ON or flashes at you....if it stays ON then try swapping over the ASD relay with an identical one.
I had this problem with the Jeep turning over but not firing and the SKIM icon....older KJs use an amber "key" icon....staying ON.

This I overcame by removing the ASD relay and jumping the empty socket female pin 30 to pin 87....Jeep would then start and run until I managed to trace a broken wire going to the ASD relay coil to fix the problem! :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 10:46 am 
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The little red light come on then when you crank it it goes off. I tried jumping that relay socket between the sockets you mentioned. Nada. Then I, just for grins and giggles, bleed the fuel head and that did not work. I cracked the fuel line and had my wife crank the engine, I DO have fuel to the injectors. I shall scratch my head a little more be for I play with it again.


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 12:51 pm 
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Well I have it seems by having the battery disconnected all this time, made sure that the anti-theft device no longer know the original key. Going to have it towed to the dealer and have the box re programmed so the key works. Forward to the next phase of this mess.


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 1:05 am 
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Musemguy1956 wrote:
Well I have it seems by having the battery disconnected all this time, made sure that the anti-theft device no longer know the original key. Going to have it towed to the dealer and have the box re programmed so the key works. Forward to the next phase of this mess.
I'd skip the tow and the stealership. Find a reputable mobile locksmith to come to you. It should save you some $$$.

You'll need your SKIM code (4 digit PIN) to access the key programming. If you don't have this, be sure to get it from the stealership before the locksmith arrives.

This is also a good time to get a new key programed if you don't have an extra.

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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:09 am 
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<-- CPL and former locksmith business owner.
Dealerships must provide the skim 4 digit security "PIN code" upon you presenting your ID and proof of ownership with VIN. Some don't like to, but law requires it. I even had customers that came to me with paint codes and other things that the dealership gave them instead, just to be diicks.
Save / remember this number in case you need to have anything done in the future.
I routinely printed a small adhesive label with this number and applied it to the front edge of the driver's door, and informed the owner that it was there, and what it was for. It's an inconspicuous place, but easy to see if you need it and know it's there.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Battery killing Liberty
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 12:40 pm 
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Is there any other way to get this 4 digit code? Is is embedded in the OEM bin file anywhere?

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