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 Post subject: CRD Mechanic Recommendation Needed for South-East Michigan
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 10:34 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
I would appreciate recommendations for mechanics in my area that KNOW our CRD engines. I would definitely consider one of the extremely qualified traveling CRD experts who contribute so greatly to this forum of DIE-HARD CRD enthusiasts. I prefer to find someone local but all of my 12 years of experience with this engine tells me that expertise is far more important than proximity.

I have a blown head gasket and I’m assessing the damage and cost of repairs.
I knew I should have replaced the head gasket and studs when I did the timing belt but I did not. BAD decision on my part for sure. Now I am putting together the Long Expensive List of parts I will need, if the block is not cracked. I also want to include many of the upgrades known to improve the CRD if my block is not cracked.

My daughter was driving it when the head gasket blew and the temp gauge never read hot. Somehow she missed the pitiful LO COOL flashing on the digital odometer and the weak occasional chime. She parked it and called me to come check it out. First I checked the oil which was full and no evidence of coolant. Then I checked the coolant, which was empty! I added coolant and it started right up. I ran it for about 15 seconds and heard no knocks but a really loud exhaust gas noise from the blown head gasket. I had it brought to my home on a flatbed. When I checked the oil again there was coolant in it. Knowing that coolant is very bad inside an engine, I drained the oil right away.

I’ve had this CRD for 12 years now in Michigan and it is nearly rust free on Paint and underbody. I know the factory that built this vehicle and the corrosion resistance of this body is World Class! When Daimler owned Jeep they ridiculed the Americans for building such an expensive Paint Shop but I see the corrosion resistant quality it produces in my Liberty CRD!

It seems likely that the aluminum head is warped from overheating. How likely is it that the block is cracked? I was shocked to see how much coolant came out when I drained the oil. I recall that coolant is very bad for rod & main bearings but it only ran 20 seconds after I added coolant. Should I plan for new rod & main bearings or is it possible the coolant did not destroy them? I detected no internal engine knocks when it ran briefly, just the very loud banging of exhaust gas escaping.

I believe I can handle the disassembly and getting the head checked out to see if it is warped, etc. I can buy all the recommended parts and have everything ready for a Traveling EXPERT to put it all back together.

Thanks again for everyone that contributes to this Forum. The wisdom and guidance from this Forum is the main reason I kept my CRD beyond the factory warranty period. That plus the new engine Chrysler gave me in 2008 as the 36k warranty was about to expire.

I hope that I can rebuild my CRD better than original and drive it another 200k Miles!

_________________
Original owner - 2006 Liberty CRD Limited Black 205k
Chrysler Warranty New block, Head, Turbo, Timing Belt / Water Pump @ 36k followed by 129k trouble-free miles!
Timing Belt Kit, push bar, Fumoto drain valve, Samco hoses & upgrades fuel filter head at 165k
Blown Head Gasket at 205k - Now garaged to determine if it’s worth rebuilding


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 Post subject: Re: CRD Mechanic Recommendation Needed for South-East Michig
PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 12:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:13 am
Posts: 327
It is unlikely that the block itself is cracked. Depending on how low the coolant actually was, it IS possible that the cylinder liners are warped, fatigued, and/or cracked. It is also likely that the head is warped heavily or cracked. It doesn't sound like enough damage was done to drop a valve, thankfully. The only way to be sure of any of this is to pull the head and have it examined, then inspect the liners for discoloration, roundness and cracks. If it truly only ran for 15 to 20 seconds with the coolant in the oil, the bearings should be fine. The oil and coolant wouldn't mix that quickly and cause damage. Just get it flushed really well and filled back up with good clean oil.

I would start tearing it apart and getting things checked first. That will tell you if it is worth your time to continue, and only costs you time if you have the tools to do it. Any good automotive machine shop that can check the head for you should be able to check the cylinders as well. You'll likely have to bring it to them, though.

As far as upgrades to the engine/timing system, they are really pretty basic. Use a 2-hole (2-notch) head gasket, copper coat or equivalent gasket sealant, ARP head studs and make sure the head you use (which should already have been checked for flatness) has new valves in it. Make sure the camshafts don't have any fretting/grinding/worn spots. Replace all of the rockers. Replace the glow plugs if they haven't been done or if they are not performing well. There isn't all that much else to do other than cleaning the intake if it is dirty (machine shops can usually do this also, and its worth it to have them do it!). I am a proponent of changing ALL gaskets and seals when rebuilding something, so make sure you do your research and get the ones you think you need. There are tons of posts, as well as youtube videos, etc, of how to do the full timing belt replacement. The head gasket is certainly more work but is self explanatory to a certain extent. Getting the turbo off and back on seems to be the biggest headache. This information is all covered here on the forum but you may have to dig a bit to find it.

As far as a mechanic, unfortunately, I am no help. There are a few here who travel to do things like this but I'll make no mention of them. They will likely chime in if they are interested in helping you out.

_________________
2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump


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