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New to me 05 CRD http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=87903 |
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Author: | GordnadoCRD [ Mon Mar 12, 2018 12:10 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
Very nice! If that's your shop, color me green! I may have misunderstood you so please forgive me if I did, ... Quote: Already did the elephant mod and pulled the crankcase vent out to atmosphere. Might want to re-think this one. Some have never had problems with it, but as they have aged, there seems to be a correlation between EHM and failed rear main seals. Logic being, with the vacuum pump exhausting into the crankcase, and slight increase of blowby as they mature, the negative pressure of the turbo intake tube becomes more critical. Without it, the large area of the R428 CRD Rear Main Seal fails to the slight increase of CCV pressure. The safer (in theory) option is a Provent closed system catch can (or something equivalent) to congeal the oil vapors, and allow the CCV to retain it's original vent point without rotting the Compressor inlet hose. Quote: Are the Cam lock bolts cheap and easy to get? Or are there specs out there, I do have a machine shop at my disposal to make them to. Worst case I can do the tool rental online that's not too bad of a deal. The Cam Timing pins are widely spaced for price, but are simple enough to make. I believe there are blueprint diagrams somewhere in these millions of posts. More importantly, (if that is what you are referring to) they aren't good for counter-holding 80 lbs of cam sprocket bolt torque. Something WILL break. The rest of it looks awesome, as long as you don't wait on that timing belt. Even if it actually has been done before, unless you know the date and mileage it should be done ASAP, so you have a start point you can bank on. Failure of those is spendy. |
Author: | WWDiesel [ Mon Mar 12, 2018 10:06 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
Quote: Are the Cam lock bolts cheap and easy to get? Or are there specs out there, I do have a machine shop at my disposal to make them to. Worst case I can do the tool rental online that's not too bad of a deal. Welcome to the Jeep CRD addiction! Be sure and read Sams CRD NOOB GUIDE FYI, they are not cam locking bolts! They are only used for timing the cams, they cannot be used for unbolting the two cam sprocket bolts(80 ft.lbs). The cam sprockets must be removed to gain access to the water pump which is driven by the cam belt. There are tool sets available online like the one pictured below that has the cam index/timing pins. To loosen the cam bolts requires a camshaft sprocket holding counter force bar/tool. They too are available online. Sasquatch Parts also rents and sales the cam tools. These are the specs if you want to make your own engine timing pins: |
Author: | thatoneguy [ Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:42 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
Yes I do understand the timing bolts will break off and are not for torqing on and off, but thank you for clarifying that. I have read through noob guide and done quite a bit of research on these before sticking my neck out and buying one. I did vent the crankcase to atmosphere because it was really oiled up in the intake, and rear seal is seeping very minimal but if I get picky may replace. Now I have mixed opinion on that... Thanks for the pin specs!! Simple enought Ill turn them out on the lathe pretty easy. Yes this is our motorsports shop. 60x120, big enough we fit our toterhome and trailer inside plus load and unload inside. Got a 14x24 10ft tall paintbooth with intake air heater. Were kind of spoiled... no lift yet still waiting to find a good deal but we mostly work on tractors here a post lift would be in the way sometimes. |
Author: | WWDiesel [ Mon Mar 12, 2018 2:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
thatoneguy wrote: Yes I do understand the timing bolts will break off and are not for torqing on and off, but thank you for clarifying that. I have read through noob guide and done quite a bit of research on these before sticking my neck out and buying one. I did vent the crankcase to atmosphere because it was really oiled up in the intake, and rear seal is seeping very minimal but if I get picky may replace. Now I have mixed opinion on that... Thanks for the pin specs!! Simple enought Ill turn them out on the lathe pretty easy. Yes this is our motorsports shop. 60x120, big enough we fit our toterhome and trailer inside plus load and unload inside. Got a 14x24 10ft tall paintbooth with intake air heater. Were kind of spoiled... no lift yet still waiting to find a good deal but we mostly work on tractors here a post lift would be in the way sometimes. The CCV should be connected to the turbo intake boot, not vented to atmosphere (EHM). It is designed and needs the additional suction or vacuum to properly function and prevent buildup of positive pressure inside the engine block. Most simply add a ProVent filter to remove the oil out of the CCV gasses going back into the intake. The reason for this is the vacuum pump discharges into the engine internally, so it adds exponentially to the flow coming out of the CCV puck on top of the engine. See this thread for more insight on this:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80491 For a lift, check with this company, they are great to work with and have good prices. They have lifts of all sizes and stores all over the US. I bought a 10k lift from them last year and I am well pleased with it. http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/ |
Author: | papaindigo [ Mon Mar 12, 2018 3:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
All internal combustion engines have blow by and blow by results in "pressure" in the crankcase. Prior to about 1965 that pressure was typically vented directly to atmosphere which a) produces atmospheric pollution (e.g. smog) and b) dribbles oil on the road surface (slick roads and water pollution). After about 1965 that pressure was vented back into the intake (thru turbo on turbo charged vehicles or into the air filter housing if no turbo) as a simple first step in reducing pollution from internal combustion engines. The EHM returns you to those wonderful pre-1965 days which is a bad idea. As a reward for doing this (think WI winters) there is enough moisture in the EHM tube for it to freeze shut in winter thus increasing crankcase pressure enough to blow the rear main seal at which point you will have the pleasure of dropping the transmission to replace the rear main seal. If you just cannot stand the existing CCV venting to in front of the turbo at least get a Provent or some such to keep the oil dribble on the road to a minimum. Better yet leave the system alone and get a GDE tune and don't worry about the oil which will now pass harmlessly thru the engine without forming soot. PS if that mileage is REALLY on the original timing belt then park the vehicle right now and leave it parked until the belt is replaced. |
Author: | WWDiesel [ Mon Mar 12, 2018 9:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
papaindigo wrote: All internal combustion engines have blow by and blow by results in "pressure" in the crankcase. True to a point, but not all internal combustion engines have a vacuum pump discharging directly into the internals of the crankcase adding to the total volumetric mass of the blowby. That is why these engines were designed and require the additional vacuum on the CCV system provided by the suction of the turbo inlet. The reason for a ProVent filter even if you have removed or blanked off the EGR system is to keep oil vapors from condensing and collecting in the bottom of the CAC thus limiting its efficiency. |
Author: | CMSRock [ Sun Mar 18, 2018 8:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: pin specs |
Hi Thatoneguy, I just did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, radiator hoses, idler pulleys and motor mounts this weekend on my 06 with 100k. The belt was showing cracks on the flat side probably more from years than miles, it was a goodyear belt and I believe original. The teeth didn't show wear too bad. One of the idlers was a little looser on the bearing than it should have been and the scary thing was the tensioner had rotated to the point it really wasn't tensioning any more. The bolt was tight but I think the belt had stretched that much over time. Bottom line is get in there sooner than later! When you turn up you pins the threads are M10 x 1.0 fine not the common M10 x 1.5, missed that when I turned up the pins for my daughters CRD about a year ago. Just a few tips if you look down through the oil filler hole you can see the pin hole in the cam as it comes around so 90 degrees more and you will feel it go in easy, timing mark on pump only lines up every third rev, be sure to adjust the tensioner then rotate 3 revs by hand, then adjust tensioner if needed again, and when you get past the open cover 30-90 second startup after double checking with the alignment pins one last time check the tensioner again. On the straight pin I used a piece of 5/16 303 stainless rod that was .3135 diameter cut it off and bent a 90 degree for a head. It slipped ok through the housing but was really tight in the next hole, ended up turning .005 or so off to get it in,probably oxidation or crud in the hole. Both motor mounts were shot too, while you have the fan off and can see things on top fromthe front you may want to consider doing them, especially if they have not been changed. Mine looked good but after removing I can shake them and hear the broken stuff rattle inside. It took me about 18 hours to disassemble and reassemble everything by myself including the motor mounts but I was under no time pressure on this one and wasn't running a race. Lots of cleaning and double checking torque specs etc. When I did my daughters last year it took me and my son in law about 8 hours but he is a mechanic by trade where I am a machinist. |
Author: | rancherman [ Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
Has anyone actually measured the vacuum level in that inlet hose? ( with a clean filter?) IIRC, GMCTD ran a filter minder on his airbox.. but they are pretty crude for measuring.. more for 'warning' of too high restriction. What ever happened to that member? OP; I see you live in Wisc.. apparently your ehm is working in your sub zero conditions. |
Author: | senatorjohn [ Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:49 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
Manual version available in Australia so one would think somewhere in USA there must be a gearbox that will do the job. Had a manual a few years back but don't know anything about the box. John |
Author: | thatoneguy [ Wed Mar 21, 2018 10:33 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
Thanks for the heads up, plan on ordering the kit and head studs in a week or so. Been very busy finishing up winter projects but I just need to do this before the belt snaps. Already got around 1,000 miles on it since i bought it. Thinking motor mounts may be shot with some rattles I hear definatly going to check those! |
Author: | GordnadoCRD [ Mon Apr 09, 2018 3:12 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
thatoneguy wrote: Belt actually doesn't scare me too bad, normal cracks, I see Bobcat drive belts all the time that go 5,000 + hours that are unimaginably bad yet still holding on... I get your point, but when a Bobcat drive belt actually does break, it doesn't result in hundreds to thousands of dollars of internal engine damage. Replacement at regular known mileage / time intervals is prudent, and relatively cheap insurance. |
Author: | jws84_02 [ Mon Apr 09, 2018 12:48 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
Uh oh. The good ole mark n pray method. Should of left the cam sprockets loose, then tension the belt and then torque the sprockets down. This insures perfect timing |
Author: | DieselJeepLuvr [ Tue Apr 10, 2018 12:33 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
If you haven't done so yet, I'd highly recommend replacing the thermostat and crank vibration dampener. Thermostat if not functioning properly will reduce fuel economy and the rubber in the CVD gets brittle and eventually causes the balance weight to bounce around Making a distinct "ting, ting ting" sound and can damage the engine from out of balance condition. |
Author: | thatoneguy [ Fri Apr 13, 2018 8:41 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: New to me 05 CRD |
Not going to replace the thermostat, it warms up very good and needle gets up to just about vertical and stays there. It defiantly helps having a winter front on staying up to temp in the wisconsin cold! Also just removed the engine fan about 300 miles after vefifying electric one worked. I am very impressed with how well it warms up. Not broke not fixing the thermostat I am aware of their issues. Just to clarify the belt comment wasn't against normal maintenance, that's why that was the first big project I did. I thought it was good to see what the components looked like untouched with 184,000 miles. One idler bearing was scary how loose it was the other was not far behind. The tensioner bearing was still just as tight as the new one but obviously replaced since it was appart that far. Water pump bearing was just showing some play so just a matter of time before that was going to go. |
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