Changed fuel filter: runs for few seconds shuts off

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 12:40 pm

I did this multiple times thinking it takes time to get fuel in the filter. No luck.

I have an inline fuel pump (next to the battery) that I found out wasn't working, so I removed it and hooked the lines direct. No chalnge

I tried bleeding the air out but could only get air and no fuel.

However, previously, after installing the new filter, I took it for a test drive and noted that according to a fault code: P0183 that the fuel temp sensor was faulty, but it ran and drove fine. After checking the connection, I found that I had removed the connector at the base of the housing and not at the spade connector location. The wires had pulled out and noted that it was not meant to be removed at that location.

Put it back the way it was and now won't stay running but for a few seconds: New fault code P0093 Powertrain fuel leak problem.

Decided to buy a new filter housing (gen2) and a new inline FP. Won't get those til the first of the week.

Is there anything I can check (mainly electrical) in the mean time? .... Like the in-tank fuel pump

Remove the filter and fill it with fuel (like I did the first time) again?

Really frustrating ..... :banghead:

APC9199 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 2:59 pm

Yes, remove the filter and fill it with fresh clean fuel. Ensure that you only have ONE rubber gasket installed. When you re-install the filter, since you do not currently have a fuel pump, you will have to prime it by hand until you get nothing but a solid stream of fuel from the bleeder. It may take several attempts. I also recommend installing a zerk-extender so you don't wear out the seat below the bleeder. Someone here has a link to one that can be purchased fairly cheap.

If you had a fuel pump under the hood, it is almost a guarantee that you do not have one in the tank. Our CRD's did not come with an in-tank pump because...well...Chrysler. If you want to install another fuel pump I, and many others, would recommend getting rid of the one under the hood and installing an in-tank one. There are numerous threads on here regarding how to do this. One under the hood is better than none, however.

Report back if you still have trouble.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 3:04 pm

ROKTAXI wrote:

I did this multiple times thinking it takes time to get fuel in the filter. No luck.

I have an inline fuel pump (next to the battery) that I found out wasn't working, so I removed it and hooked the lines direct. No chalnge

I tried bleeding the air out but could only get air and no fuel. Did you pump the primer until hard, crack the bleeder screw, close bleeder screw and repeat? If you just open bleeder screw and pump the primer with the screw open you will never get any fuel

However, previously, after installing the new filter, I took it for a test drive and noted that according to a fault code: P0183 that the fuel temp sensor was faulty, but it ran and drove fine. After checking the connection, I found that I had removed the connector at the base of the housing and not at the spade connector location. The wires had pulled out and noted that it was not meant to be removed at that location. I don't understand. There are 3 electrical connectors and all can be removed - 1) water in fuel sensor on bottom of filter, 2) fuel temp connector on left of filter head and 3) fuel heater connector on right of filter head. Which are you talking about.

Put it back the way it was and now won't stay running but for a few seconds: New fault code P0093 Powertrain fuel leak problem.

Decided to buy a new filter housing (gen2) and a new inline FP. Won't get those til the first of the week.

Is there anything I can check (mainly electrical) in the mean time? .... Like the in-tank fuel pumpDid you remove the inner filter gasket when you took the original filter off?

Remove the filter and fill it with fuel (like I did the first time) again?Don't ever do that unless you use pristine fuel or something like PowerService as anything you pour into the filter goes to the engine unfiltered.

Really frustrating ..... :banghead:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 5:48 pm

ROKTAXI wrote:

I have an inline fuel pump (next to the battery) that I found out wasn't working, so I removed it and hooked the lines direct. No chalnge

Just for clarification..
- Is this pump able to draw through if the pump fails? you can check by blowing through in the direction of flow. If you cannot blow through, the failure can damage the CP3 high pressure pump.
- Is this inline pump between the filter and the CP3 pump, or is it between the filter and the tank? Either way, there is cause for worry due to upstream air ingress. If it is between the filter and the CP3 it is basically functionless and could be harming the high pressure pump. If it is pulling enough air without fuel, it may be the cause of the electric pump's failure.

These are all basically "possibilities" due to unclear detail, and may or may not apply.

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 6:51 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

ROKTAXI wrote:

I have an inline fuel pump (next to the battery) that I found out wasn't working, so I removed it and hooked the lines direct. No chalnge

Just for clarification..
- Is this pump able to draw through if the pump fails? you can check by blowing through in the direction of flow. If you cannot blow through, the failure can damage the CP3 high pressure pump. Yes I can blow through in the direction of flow
- Is this inline pump between the filter and the CP3 pump, or is it between the filter and the tank? between the filter & tank Either way, there is cause for worry due to upstream air ingress. If it is between the filter and the CP3 it is basically functionless and could be harming the high pressure pump. If it is pulling enough air without fuel, it may be the cause of the electric pump's failure.

These are all basically "possibilities" due to unclear detail, and may or may not apply.

I realize my description lacked important details. However I was able to correct my mistake and the Jeep appears to be functioning as it should.

Thanks for your input! I'm glad that some catastrophic failure didn't happen due to my error(s). I do have a replacement fuel filter head coming in a few days to correct the "fuel temperature sensor" fault code due to my previous description of having damaged the connector in the fuel filter head.

I'm considering putting an inline fuel pressure gauge. Where would be the best place.... before the fuel head or after? Or maybe not at all?

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 7:01 pm

papaindigo wrote:

ROKTAXI wrote:

The wires had pulled out and noted that it was not meant to be removed at that location. I don't understand. There are 3 electrical connectors and all can be removed - 1) water in fuel sensor on bottom of filter, 2) fuel temp connector on left [color=#0000FF]damaged connector at this port. of filter head and 3) fuel heater connector on right of filter head. Which are you talking about.[/color]

Put it back the way it was and now won't stay running but for a few seconds: New fault code P0093 Powertrain fuel leak problem.

Decided to buy a new filter housing (gen2) and a new inline FP. Won't get those til the first of the week.

Is there anything I can check (mainly electrical) in the mean time? .... Like the in-tank fuel pump Did you remove the inner filter gasket when you took the original filter off?
[color=#0000FF]yes. all old rubber gaskets were removed before installing the new filter[/color]

Remove the filter and fill it with fuel (like I did the first time) again?Don't ever do that unless you use pristine fuel or something like PowerService as anything you pour into the filter goes to the engine unfiltered. I used new fuel

Really frustrating ..... :banghead:

Really appreciate your input!!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:43 pm

ROKTAXI wrote:

I'm considering putting an inline fuel pressure gauge. Where would be the best place.... before the fuel head or after? Or maybe not at all?

A fuel pressure gauge, provided you have an intank or inline fuel pump, should measure the fuel pressure on the outlet side of the fuel filter and before fuel enters the CP3.
:SOMBRERO:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 9:15 pm

ROKTAXI · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:21 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

ROKTAXI wrote:

I'm considering putting an inline fuel pressure gauge. Where would be the best place.... before the fuel head or after? Or maybe not at all?

A fuel pressure gauge, provided you have an intank or inline fuel pump, should measure the fuel pressure on the outlet side of the fuel filter and before fuel enters the CP3.

Thanks for your reply.

Yes, I have an inline fuel pump.

I'm not familiar with the location of the CP3. All I know is they are VERY expensive!

I like the idea of being able to monitor the FP like any other gauge that has an electric sending unit... BUT at $250 +/- I'll have to live with a mechanical gauge at a small fraction of that. Think I'll just have to keep it under the hood like I use to have on my gassers. Although I don't mind the gauge in the location you have, but I'd prefer to have it out of "harms way".

Changed fuel filter: runs for few seconds shuts off

Who is online