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 Post subject: getting in time
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 1:07 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:10 am
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hi guys and girls.. i have a kj 2002 2.5 CRD. the two idler pulleys chewed out and timing belt came loose.. i now have a crd with both cam shafts free spinning (no resistance?) how do i get these back in time? and no resistance have i broken somthing?


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 Post subject: Re: getting in time
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 3:25 am 
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Location: White River in the Bush South Africa
bordem88 wrote:
hi guys and girls.. i have a kj 2002 2.5 CRD. the two idler pulleys chewed out and timing belt came loose.. i now have a crd with both cam shafts free spinning (no resistance?) how do i get these back in time? and no resistance have i broken somthing?



You have definitely broken a lot of things! :shock:
The newer KJs came out with rockers designed to snap off when hitting a piston with an extended valve....the 2.5 CRDs did not have this feature so expect a lot more damage.

You can download the 2002 KJ Service Manual here but rather first download the section called "2.5_2.8 Export Diesel"" as it covers our Export 2.5 CRDs in great detail.....lots of differences to the 2005/6 USA models.

You would need to remove the head completely to see the damage....I would personally try to pick up a similar motor from a Breaker Yard and straight away fit a new timing belt. idlers tensioner etc. The belt is supposed to be replaced every 100,000 miles or within 7 years of age!
There are lots of posts here on how to fix this type of damage....not an easy job as the cam shafts do not have locating pins fitted.
Most of these posts cover the 2.8L USA models but the basics should be the same as long as you refer to the 2.5_2.8 Export diesel manuals I have mentioned above.

Where are you located? The Aussie site http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com has a large membership with these Export CRDs we have...go to the KJ section... and they will be able to give you some good advice! :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: getting in time
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 6:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:10 am
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thank you billybob, im going to sit in the corner and cry a bit more now$$$$$$
im located in port lincoln south Australia.. cheers mate, will look for replacement motor


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 Post subject: Re: getting in time
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 9:17 pm 
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Location: Southeast Michigan
bordem88 wrote:
will look for replacement motor
I'd say it's worth pulling it apart first. Could be broken rockers after all. If you've gotten it taken apart to the point that you can spin the camshafts by hand, it's mot much further to check the rockers. Just the rear timing cover and intake/valve cover assembly, really.


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 Post subject: Re: getting in time
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 10:11 pm 
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Hi Joe. How much is in volved in this, I having taken the fuel rail, loom air box rear timing cover and cam sprokets off and loosened most all bolts I can see on top. Until I got to this piobt didn't realize the cams are a part of the top not just rocker cover, when I thak the top off does it fall apart inside or?


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 Post subject: Re: getting in time
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 10:59 pm 
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Location: Prescott, Arizona
Nothing will "fall apart" that hasn't already. The cams are fixed into the intake and will remain there until you make an effort to remove them. DO try to carefully remove the intake to not disturb the rockers too much, if possible. It is obvious there is a problem here that will almost certainly involve the rockers, but being able to see them in their unaltered state might be valuable as you dig further. Once you have the intake off and have determined the condition of the rockers and possibly the valve stems (as seen from the top), you may choose to then remove the head itself. It is a decent amount of extra work unless you remove the turbo, exhaust manifold and head as a single unit with a hoist (or a broken back), but then you're at the cylinders and can determine the condition of the lower end to some extent. From there you can determine if the block is salvageable and what the parts would cost to rebuild the motor vs buy a new one.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump


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