Timing belt time - and what else?

krb · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2018 5:29 pm

So I have about 101,000 miles and about 13 years on the original belt - as far as I know.

I've amassed all the parts and have made room in the shop. Weather is warming, so ready to change the belt.

While I have everything apart to replace the TB, I plan to do the water pump, glow plugs and block heater. What mods/improvements should I do while all that is apart? Like I might as well because it is opened up or accessible?

Thanks,

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:16 pm

EGR delete or EGR block off plate or Week's EGR Kit, and clean the intake manifold.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2018 9:23 pm

ebbnflow wrote:

EGR delete or EGR block off plate or Week's EGR Kit, and clean the intake manifold.

X2 on the EGR delete! A must!
See this thread for information:> viewtopic.php?p=804565#p804565

If you are not planning to, replace the cam belt idler pulleys and tensioner pulley while you have it apart, they are wear items... :wink:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Apr 22, 2018 9:04 pm

If the EGR has been fully operational for all those miles, it would be a good idea to remove the cam housing / valve cover and check the valve lifter/rollers the increased carbon load of the egr has been known to cause increased wear in the valve train.

Having that part off, IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT get a set of ARP studs, and replace the head bolts one at a time with the studs, for added insurance against head gasket leaks. If you do this BEFORE the head gasket fails, it will save you much grief and money, of having to pull the head and replace the gasket, plus you don't have to worry about whether you got the right gasket. It's already there.

krb · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2018 5:04 am

Sounds good.

EGR delete was something I was hoping to do someday anyway.

About how much are the ARP studs?

I got the Sasquatch kit that has:
Timing belt
Drive belt
Water pump
Tensioner (2)
Belt roller (2)
Gasket kit

Plus:
Glow plugs
Intake elbow gaskets

Ordering a new block heater too.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:21 am

krb wrote:

Sounds good.
About how much are the ARP studs?

Sasquatch Parts list them:
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... ead-studs/
&
Whitebread Performance Innovations list them:
https://whitbreadperformance.com/collec ... d-stud-kit

:SOMBRERO:

krb · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2018 7:45 am

I've got the whole front end apart now and about to dig into the timing cover.

The top left corner of the intercooler is oily on the outside (as is radiator too) and a wee bit of splatter on the hoses etc. I get a few drips in that area occasionally too. I was thinking it was a power steering line/fitting but after removing the IC and seeing all that sooty oil inside there and remembering all the discussions about that I'm wondering now if my IC isn't leaking where the plastic crimps to the metal fins?

I don't really recall needing to add any PS fluid and the hoses "look" OK. One crimp connection swivels a bit. I didn't suspect the IC because it seemed to boost fine but I guess I should pressure test it. The oil is sooty so that should have told me it was the IC and not the PS. I just hate to button it all up and find it is the PS. Is there any known weak point or failure in that system with the hoses or the rack?

BTW seeing all that oil in the IC hose confirms the need for the EGR delete! Let's see how much drains out of the IC...

rancherman · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2018 9:17 am

speaking of oil in the IC, the EGR delete will not remove the oil.. just the soot that mixes with the oil and grows the intake shut..

I didn't see if you've done the intake pressure hoses, or the intake hose between the airbox and turbo... If still original, they are probably gettin' close to their 'end of life'..

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2018 9:21 am

krb wrote:

I've got the whole front end apart now and about to dig into the timing cover.

The top left corner of the intercooler is oily on the outside (as is radiator too) and a wee bit of splatter on the hoses etc. I get a few drips in that area occasionally too. I was thinking it was a power steering line/fitting but after removing the IC and seeing all that sooty oil inside there and remembering all the discussions about that I'm wondering now if my IC isn't leaking where the plastic crimps to the metal fins?

I don't really recall needing to add any PS fluid and the hoses "look" OK. One crimp connection swivels a bit. I didn't suspect the IC because it seemed to boost fine but I guess I should pressure test it. The oil is sooty so that should have told me it was the IC and not the PS. I just hate to button it all up and find it is the PS. Is there any known weak point or failure in that system with the hoses or the rack?

BTW seeing all that oil in the IC hose confirms the need for the EGR delete! Let's see how much drains out of the IC...

If you want to keep the oil out of the boost hoses and the CAC (IC), install a Mann ProVent coalescing filter like many on this forum have done.... :wink:

krb · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2018 9:48 am

Thanks rancherman and WWDiesel, good to know. I want to do everything I can afford while it is all opened up.

Well it looks like my KJ isn't the virgin I thought it was. The timing belt cover has yellow paint marker numbers on it, missing two bolts and the belt is a Goodyear... So I guess I stressed the last few thousand miles over nothing, fearing the 13 year old 100K belt was just waiting to fail but at least now I know when my next change is due!

The crankshaft only had 3 bolts too. I'll need the 4th but I also assume it needs to be identical for balance. Any ideas where I can find one?

And comparing parts, my Sasquatch kit doesn't appear to have the drive belt idlers I think I should go ahead and replace those too even though they appear fine?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2018 12:09 pm

krb wrote:

Thanks rancherman and WWDiesel, good to know. I want to do everything I can afford while it is all opened up.

Well it looks like my KJ isn't the virgin I thought it was. The timing belt cover has yellow paint marker numbers on it, missing two bolts and the belt is a Goodyear... So I guess I stressed the last few thousand miles over nothing, fearing the 13 year old 100K belt was just waiting to fail but at least now I know when my next change is due!
Goodyear brand was the OEM belt.
The crankshaft only had 3 bolts too. I'll need the 4th but I also assume it needs to be identical for balance. Any ideas where I can find one?
Most hardware stores now carry a fairly good assortment of metric bolts. Just take one of the others you have on had to a store and match up the length, size, and threads. It won't hurt if it has a different type head as long as you can torque it properly. Crankshaft Pulley Bolts Torque Nm - 32.4 / ft.lbs. - 24
And comparing parts, my Sasquatch kit doesn't appear to have the drive belt idlers I think I should go ahead and replace those too even though they appear fine?
Idler pulleys and tensioner pulley should be replaced when replacing TB to be on the safe side.

Bolt size:
Hex Flange Head. M8x16mm(length).
Part Number: 68027634AA

IDParts lists them as well as many of the online Mopar vendors. :google:

https://www.idparts.com/harmonic-balanc ... -3885.html

M8 is a very common size...

:SOMBRERO:

krb · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2018 12:45 pm

Ah, so it may be the original. Still "looks" pretty good.

We have a great locally owned hardware store here so I'll match the bolts up. Just didn't know if the shoulder on that M8 mattered or not. Thanks

Got the block heater replaced, one of the plug prongs had melted.

Been spraying down the glow plugs now that I can see them.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2018 1:20 pm

krb wrote:

Ah, so it may be the original. Still "looks" pretty good.

We have a great locally owned hardware store here so I'll match the bolts up. Just didn't know if the shoulder on that M8 mattered or not. Thanks
Shoulder doesn't matter, but you may want to add a lock washer on a non-shouldered bolt.

Got the block heater replaced, one of the plug prongs had melted.

Been spraying down the glow plugs now that I can see them.

Some on LOST have suggested plugging in the block heater for a spell before removal of the glow plugs to help facilitate their removal?
When I removed my ceramic ones, I had no issues, but some on here have reported some issues getting the old ones out. :roll:

Best of luck on the removal.... :wink:

krb · **Posted:** Mon May 21, 2018 6:04 am

Yea, keeping my fingers crossed when I tackle the glow plugs. I'll still have the coolant drained so I'll not be able to plug it in for that. Read plenty of horror stories on here...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon May 21, 2018 9:28 am

krb wrote:

Yea, keeping my fingers crossed when I tackle the glow plugs. I'll still have the coolant drained so I'll not be able to plug it in for that. Read plenty of horror stories on here...

Maybe you can heat the area with a hand held heat gun or place a space heater under the engine for a couple of hours? :idea:

Use lots of PB Blaster and good luck. Let us know how it turns out...

APC9199 · **Posted:** Mon May 21, 2018 3:03 pm

If you're worried about them coming out clean...use this. End of story.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I've seen bell housings that were corrosion welded to the engine block pop in two with a single dead-blow rap after sitting covered in this stuff overnight. We used to use it to separate steel-on-steel seals for butterfly valves in oxygen generation systems when we would refurbish them. You could pry on them with pry bars and hit them with the biggest hammer in the building all day long and they wouldn't budge. Leave them soaking in this stuff overnight then drop them firmly on a hard surface and they fall apart like they were never joined. They claim Kroil can work its way into a millionth of an inch gap and dissolve any corrosion while its there. I believe it.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2018 12:51 pm

APC9199 wrote:

If you're worried about them coming out clean...use this. End of story.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
I've seen bell housings that were corrosion welded to the engine block pop in two with a single dead-blow rap after sitting covered in this stuff overnight. We used to use it to separate steel-on-steel seals for butterfly valves in oxygen generation systems when we would refurbish them. You could pry on them with pry bars and hit them with the biggest hammer in the building all day long and they wouldn't budge. Leave them soaking in this stuff overnight then drop them firmly on a hard surface and they fall apart like they were never joined. They claim Kroil can work its way into a millionth of an inch gap and dissolve any corrosion while its there. I believe it.

Thanks for the tip, ordered a can of it off Amazon to try. Will add it to my already big assortment of penetrating oils.

Found this to be one of the best so far: CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2018 2:19 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

APC9199 wrote:

If you're worried about them coming out clean...use this. End of story.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
I've seen bell housings that were corrosion welded to the engine block pop in two with a single dead-blow rap after sitting covered in this stuff overnight. We used to use it to separate steel-on-steel seals for butterfly valves in oxygen generation systems when we would refurbish them. You could pry on them with pry bars and hit them with the biggest hammer in the building all day long and they wouldn't budge. Leave them soaking in this stuff overnight then drop them firmly on a hard surface and they fall apart like they were never joined. They claim Kroil can work its way into a millionth of an inch gap and dissolve any corrosion while its there. I believe it.

Thanks for the tip, ordered a can of it off Amazon to try. Will add it to my already big assortment of penetrating oils.

Found this to be one of the best so far: CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant

Kroil has 'saved the day' around here too, many a time!
It's kinda pricey, But I believe it's worth every penny.
One thing is whether to buy the aerosol, or the squeeze bottle. They have their pro's and con's.

Dang nozzle breaks off on the aerosol, and then you have a worthless can of product. But it's sure nice to be able to spray upside down at times!

APC9199 · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2018 4:14 pm

Ive never used the aerosol, only the long tipped oiler can. I can see the advantage of being able to spray it, though. I would probably stick to the oiler for most things since it is expensive and you have better control that way. You can't really go wrong either way!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue May 22, 2018 8:58 pm

Ordered the 16.5 oz. spray can off Amazon, it seemed to the most cost efficient of the options... :juggle:

Timing belt time - and what else?

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