EGR delete or EGR block off plate or Week's EGR Kit, and clean the intake manifold.

Sounds good.
About how much are the ARP studs?

I've got the whole front end apart now and about to dig into the timing cover.

The top left corner of the intercooler is oily on the outside (as is radiator too) and a wee bit of splatter on the hoses etc. I get a few drips in that area occasionally too. I was thinking it was a power steering line/fitting but after removing the IC and seeing all that sooty oil inside there and remembering all the discussions about that I'm wondering now if my IC isn't leaking where the plastic crimps to the metal fins?

I don't really recall needing to add any PS fluid and the hoses "look" OK. One crimp connection swivels a bit. I didn't suspect the IC because it seemed to boost fine but I guess I should pressure test it. The oil is sooty so that should have told me it was the IC and not the PS. I just hate to button it all up and find it is the PS. Is there any known weak point or failure in that system with the hoses or the rack?

BTW seeing all that oil in the IC hose confirms the need for the EGR delete! Let's see how much drains out of the IC...

Thanks rancherman and WWDiesel, good to know. I want to do everything I can afford while it is all opened up.

Well it looks like my KJ isn't the virgin I thought it was. The timing belt cover has yellow paint marker numbers on it, missing two bolts and the belt is a Goodyear... So I guess I stressed the last few thousand miles over nothing, fearing the 13 year old 100K belt was just waiting to fail but at least now I know when my next change is due!
Goodyear brand was the OEM belt.
The crankshaft only had 3 bolts too. I'll need the 4th but I also assume it needs to be identical for balance. Any ideas where I can find one?
Most hardware stores now carry a fairly good assortment of metric bolts. Just take one of the others you have on had to a store and match up the length, size, and threads. It won't hurt if it has a different type head as long as you can torque it properly. Crankshaft Pulley Bolts Torque Nm - 32.4 / ft.lbs. - 24
And comparing parts, my Sasquatch kit doesn't appear to have the drive belt idlers I think I should go ahead and replace those too even though they appear fine?
Idler pulleys and tensioner pulley should be replaced when replacing TB to be on the safe side.

Ah, so it may be the original. Still "looks" pretty good.

We have a great locally owned hardware store here so I'll match the bolts up. Just didn't know if the shoulder on that M8 mattered or not. Thanks
Shoulder doesn't matter, but you may want to add a lock washer on a non-shouldered bolt.

Got the block heater replaced, one of the plug prongs had melted.

Been spraying down the glow plugs now that I can see them.

Yea, keeping my fingers crossed when I tackle the glow plugs. I'll still have the coolant drained so I'll not be able to plug it in for that. Read plenty of horror stories on here...

If you're worried about them coming out clean...use this. End of story.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
I've seen bell housings that were corrosion welded to the engine block pop in two with a single dead-blow rap after sitting covered in this stuff overnight. We used to use it to separate steel-on-steel seals for butterfly valves in oxygen generation systems when we would refurbish them. You could pry on them with pry bars and hit them with the biggest hammer in the building all day long and they wouldn't budge. Leave them soaking in this stuff overnight then drop them firmly on a hard surface and they fall apart like they were never joined. They claim Kroil can work its way into a millionth of an inch gap and dissolve any corrosion while its there. I believe it.

Thanks for the tip, ordered a can of it off Amazon to try. Will add it to my already big assortment of penetrating oils.

Found this to be one of the best so far: CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant