I have a 2005 jeep liberty CRD that has ABS (I doubt they don't have ABS). I know it is a 3 sensor. I am trying to figure out if the forward hub has the speed sensor built into it. If I recall I thought the ABS sensors read the rotation of the wheel from the brake?

TLDR: I need a new front wheel hub assembly. Do I get one with wires or without?

With wires, the sensor is in the hub, not the brake.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

Front Wheel Hub
Mopar --
HUB AND BEARING.
Right. Part Number: 52128692AF
Left. Part Number: 52128693AF

Moog and Timken are two of the better aftermarket brands after OEM.

Part Numbers:
moog-513176
moog-513177

2 pc Timken HA599455L

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I wonder why Mopar and Moog have different part numbers right and left, but Timken has only one?

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.

I found that very curious as well, but alas I have no answer for that...

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I bought the Timken one for my right front, and it worked fine. Brake sensor line seemed to be the same length as the previous one.

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JBA 4" lift, IRO Tri-link w/ wwdiesel bracket, JBA sliders, 235/85-16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, Mercedes Benz forged ultralight wheels, Weeks stage 1 and 2, Weeks lift pump and harness, Weeks battery tray and AGM battery, GDE tune, Suncoast TC, updated front pump, HDS 001 T-stat, ARP studs, Front and rear Detroit/Eaton Truetrac LSD.

I know it’s an old thread, but I’m wondering.

I need a right front bearing and am wondering how tough a job it is on an ‘06 with 150,000 miles and a lot of rust.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

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2006 Liberty CRD.

Okay, I’ll answer my own question.

I replaced it yesterday, and it went pretty well. The car is pretty rusty (almost 20years in New England winters, original hub). The 3 bolts that hold the hub in place looked awful. I cleaned it as best as I could and sprayed everything with penetrating oil a month or so ago. First thing in the morning I took off the caliper, bracket and rotor, sprayed it again, let it sit for an hour or two then sprayed it once more. I also sprayed the hub itself to loosen it up.

After lunch, I started on the bolts. Amazingly, they all came out pretty easily. A few wacks, maybe more than a few, with a small sledgehammer and it popped loose. Cleaned everything up and put it back together, even used the original hub bolts. Honestly, the hardest part of the job was probably the ABS connector inside the engine compartment.

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2006 Liberty CRD.