It is currently Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:57 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 14 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 1:12 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:54 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Rockville, Maryland
What is the correct procedure to prime the fuel system?

Three weeks ago, while traveling to Miami, FL from Rockville, MD I made an stop in Charlotte, NC. Leaving Charlotte, I was not too careful in my refueling at a BP station and using a green color hose, put 16 gal. of regular in my CRD. I left the CRD in my son in law hands and continue in a rental as I needed to be in Miami the next afternoon.
End result, my son in law drained the tank and installed a new filter, and followed the recommendations of the technician of the local Jeep dealer for "removing the air" of the system. "pump it five times and open the bleeding valve after and repeat until you got just fuel coming out of the valve". It worked for a while, but the CRD keep falling back into a limp mode after a few local trips. Upon my return to Charlotte two weeks later, we replaced the filter head, was suspected to have a leak at the joint of the two halves, and repeated that procedure again. We had the CRD running for about an hour and a half idling and local trips with out falling into limp mode. I then headed north on the highway and every thing appears to be find until after one and a half hours. Limp mode again. Pulled into a gas station on one of the exits and was about to repeat the procedure, but my metric tools did not fit the bleeding valve. After pumping it three or four sessions of ten of so pumps I got it running out of limp mode and all the way back to Rockville MD with an overnight stop in the way. No more issues since.
In reading the glove compartment owner's manual, it says to pump it twenty times and start it, and to repeat it until the CRD runs OK.

So, who is correct, the manual or the technician? I'll say the manual.

Sorry about being long winded but I wanted you to have the whole picture.

_________________
Sergio05CRD


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 1:50 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4118
Location: Central GA
Do yourself and your Jeep a favor and install an intank fuel pump and never worry about having to pump again or chase any air leaks in the fuel system.
The engine will actually run and idle much better with the slight positive fuel pressure on the CP3.

The intank fuel pump will fill up new fuel filters with just the cycling of the ign key on while having the bleed valve open. Pump runs for ~15 seconds when ign switch is cycled to the "ON" position.
Also, if you had an intank fuel pump installed, you could have jumpered the fuel pump relay socket and pumped out the entire fuel tank of the bad gas mix in a matter of minutes.... :wink:

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/vehicle ... el-system/
Image

Many benefits to having the intank fuel pump and it is probably the No. 1 mod done to the Jeep CRD...

:SOMBRERO:

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 1:58 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
Posts: 4350
Location: Green Cove Springs FL
Keep a 11mm wrench with you at all times. Its also helpful to have a small bottle or something to catch the fuel out of the bleeder.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 2:34 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4118
Location: Central GA
11mm & 7/16 wrench sizes are virtually interchangeable.

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 7:06 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:54 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Rockville, Maryland
Thanks, WWDiesel and Flash.
After 210K miles without an in-tank fuel pump I would say that the original design is "aceptable" for most of us average users/wrenchers.
It was my lack of attention to the station pump the cause of the issue. The only other issue that I encounter was some sort of erratic idling that adding MMO to the tank for about 4 full tanks cured. I do continue the use of adding MMO every other full tank.
Draining the tank with an inline pump at the inlet hose of the filter assembly was no a mayor issue as my son in law had one accessible, he works in a shop modifying 4x4s in Charlotte, but the procedure to prime the filter was, in my opinion, not satisfactory.
I do agree with you that the in-tank pump, not an inline pump, is the best modification that I could do, after the provent already installed, but, as today, I sincerely would like to know the correct procedure to prime the filter,AKA "bleeding the air". And yes, from now on I will carry my 7/16 wrench with me in my in car tool kit, along with a short piece of transparent hose and an empty bottle.

_________________
Sergio05CRD


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 8:05 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4118
Location: Central GA
Sergio del Castillo wrote:
After 210K miles without an in-tank fuel pump I would say that the original design is "aceptable" for most of us average users/wrenchers..

It's the little things (mods) that makes the difference between "average" and "exceptional" owners!
Just because it is just bearly acceptable from the bean counters at the factory, does not always mean it's the best or most reliable design for the vehicle or the long term owner.
The factory's only concern was to get the vehicle past the OEM warranty period and did not give a rats behind about 13-14 year old vehicles with many approaching or exceeding 200k miles... :banghead:
Look at the mod lists of most of the CRD posters/owners signatures on this forum....some can be quite extensive.
Not trying to beat anyone up on this, but if a mod eliminates a factory design deficiency, adds value and /or performance, and reliability to boot, then it should be seriously considered worth doing.....
:2cents:

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 9:04 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:54 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Rockville, Maryland
WWDiesel,
I agree with you. Just is that I have very limited working conditions, my drive way, and limited help and resources, thus such improvements, like the in tank pump, do not come easy to implement. So , unless they become "necessary", they get push back to the "desirable" category. Thus, for now I have to keep with the "acceptable" performance, though I do plan to buy the in tank kit in the near future, a few months, and have it handy for installation at the nearest convenient opportunity.

I plan to use that opportunity to correct the sensor for the fuel gauge. My is way off like pumping 18.5 gal with the gauge in the first notch left of 1/4 tank mark, and 12 gal with the gauge pointing one notch to the right of 1/2 tank mark. This is annoying.

Still my question, What is the correct procedure to prime the fuel filter?

_________________
Sergio05CRD


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 9:23 am 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:13 am
Posts: 363
Priming the filter is as easy as it seems. You usually start by filling the filter with fresh clean fuel, making sure that only one rubber o-ring is installed before installing the filter onto the head. Prime the plunger until it gets hard, then open the bleeder screw. If anything other than solid fuel comes out, then close the bleeder, prime the plunger again, and repeat. Once a solid stream of fuel comes out, close the bleeder and you're done. Some people catch the fuel in a towel or rag (since there shouldn't be TOO much) and some people connect a hose to the bleeder and route it into a catch bottle. Another good idea is to go to a plumbing or auto supply store that sells various fittings and build a bleeder "extension". This puts a small extension between the bleeder screw and the filter head to prevent the seat in the head from getting damaged from repeated use. If the extension ever gets damaged, you can remove and replace it with another one. Once the seat in the filter head is damaged, you need a new head! I think there was a ready-made option available somewhere. I never think to save the link for it since I just use my lift pump to prime the filter. :oops:

_________________
2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 3:20 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:54 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Rockville, Maryland
Thanks APC9199, I am printing the procedure to have it handy for the next time. My son in law used a rag to catch the fuel, but I like the idea of the catch bottle similar to the one for bleeding the brakes. The end of the hose inside fuel so no air goes back.

_________________
Sergio05CRD


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 3:40 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4118
Location: Central GA
Sergio del Castillo wrote:
WWDiesel,
I agree with you. Just is that I have very limited working conditions, my drive way, and limited help and resources, thus such improvements, like the in tank pump, do not come easy to implement. So , unless they become "necessary", they get push back to the "desirable" category. Thus, for now I have to keep with the "acceptable" performance, though I do plan to buy the in tank kit in the near future, a few months, and have it handy for installation at the nearest convenient opportunity.

I plan to use that opportunity to correct the sensor for the fuel gauge. My is way off like pumping 18.5 gal with the gauge in the first notch left of 1/4 tank mark, and 12 gal with the gauge pointing one notch to the right of 1/2 tank mark. This is annoying.

Still my question, What is the correct procedure to prime the fuel filter?

Good for you on your plan! When you install the new intank pump module, it will contain a new fuel level sensor within it.
If you were closer, I would gladly provide you with the help and a location for the install.

APC9199's instructions for priming are dead on, pump plunger until hard, open bleeder valve to vent, then close. Repeat same process until NO air bubbles vents out of bleeder valve. :wink:

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 10:20 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:54 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Rockville, Maryland
Thanks for the offer WWDiesel. I do travel through GA every year in July, but it is basically along the I95 corridor on the east side, and normally make an stopover around Savanna. It is a beautiful city full of parks and delicious saltwater toffee.

_________________
Sergio05CRD


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 11:25 am 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:07 pm
Posts: 397
Location: Southeast Michigan
Sergio del Castillo wrote:
I plan to use that opportunity to correct the sensor for the fuel gauge. My is way off like pumping 18.5 gal with the gauge in the first notch left of 1/4 tank mark, and 12 gal with the gauge pointing one notch to the right of 1/2 tank mark. This is annoying.
Not to take this thread off-topic, but I decided to look into this.

The owner's manual says the tank capacity is 20.5 gallons. Since each notch on the gauge is 1/16, 20.5 gallons fills 16/16 of the tank. 20.5 / 16 = 1.28 gal per 1/16 of gauge
One notch to the left of 1/4 tank mark is 3/16. To fill the remaining 13/16 of the tank, it takes 18.5 gallons. 18.5 / 13 = 1.42 gal per 1/16 of gauge
One notch to the right of 1/2 tank mark is 9/16. To fill the remaining 7/16 of the tank, it takes 12 gallons. 12 / 7 = 1.71 gal per 1/16 of gauge

So it's definitely not linear; the less fuel you have in the tank, the faster the needle moves toward Empty. It's possible that your float arm is bent or the resistance of the sending unit is somehow off, but if you're running the stock tune, it's likely that programming is at least part of the issue. GDE lists "linear fuel gauge" as a feature of their tunes, which implies the stock programming is non-linear.

Edit: Also note that these numbers aren't totally accurate since a.) the tank capacity is approximate, and b.) fuel gauges seem to normally be set up so there's still a bit left in the tank when the gauge reaches 'E'.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 12:19 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
Posts: 4350
Location: Green Cove Springs FL
The GDE tune actually makes the fuel gauge more linear.
Its a programming/calibration thing.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING
PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 4:57 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:54 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Rockville, Maryland
That is very interesting. I never had a car where the fuel gauge was an accurate instrument, much less lineal, and the mathematical calculations are subject to the observation of the gauge by the driver. These gauges are slow to react to changes in fuel level. For instance, with the car parked in my incline drive way, the reading is showing less than the actual content, and when you move the car to a level surface it takes some time for the needle to show the new fuel level, some times up to five minutes. I am guessing that is by design to avoid the needle fluctuation with the slush of the fuel in the tank with the movement of the car. Only in my TR-3 I could notice fluctuations of the needle with the slush of the fuel in the tank.

As I do not have a display of the fuel economy in my car, the basic sports model, I am constantly calculating in my mind how far can I go with the fuel left in the tank. Could I make it to the next refueling station? Thus I have created the habit of refueling as soon as possible after the gauge shows 1/4 full, before it gets to the 1/8 mark. I only remember two occasions where the red warning light have turned "on". It is scary to see how fast it moves towards "E" from the 1/4 tank mark, but when I top the tank, it takes almost 70 miles to move from "F". It is not that bad if you are traveling in the interstates, but I have found local state roads in the central and mid west where the distances between service areas is of 70 plus miles and they o not say is there is diesel available there.

I thank all of you for the interest in my questions. As allways I obtain the answer that I was looking for.

_________________
Sergio05CRD


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 14 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: mahor123 and 33 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com