E brake controller

RCS · **Joined:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:19 pm **Posts:** 85

I asked this on the general page. Did the CRD with a tow package have an E brake controller? Is it any good? If not what to you recommend for the Libby?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed May 23, 2018 10:26 pm

It did not, there is a blue wire under the dash to connect a brake controller to.

RCS · **Joined:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:19 pm **Posts:** 85

Sir Sam wrote:

It did not, there is a blue wire under the dash to connect a brake controller to.

Thanks. Any recommendations on a controller for a Libby?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed May 23, 2018 11:27 pm

RCS wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

It did not, there is a blue wire under the dash to connect a brake controller to.

Thanks. Any recommendations on a controller for a Libby?

Sorry no. I don't have one.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2018 11:26 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

It did not, there is a blue wire under the dash to connect a brake controller to.

So that blue wire could tell the controller how much the break pedal is pressed (gain)? I’m interested in this, even though I hear best is to have one installed at a travel trailer dealer.

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Sat May 26, 2018 11:44 pm

I have the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 = https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwi6TYBRAYEiwAOeH7GX9S6CzPxMadeBiqhe7NBkbw0XOcxo0At4z8270CBFe5Ip80dFXwAxoCi7EQAvD_BwE

It's good from my experience.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 27, 2018 12:32 pm

thermorex wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

It did not, there is a blue wire under the dash to connect a brake controller to.

So that blue wire could tell the controller how much the break pedal is pressed (gain)? I’m interested in this, even though I hear best is to have one installed at a travel trailer dealer.

The blue wire is strictly for the voltage output circuit coming out of whatever aftermarket brake controller is installed. It feeds a variable voltage signal directly to the trailers electric brakes electromagnets via the blue wire. The greater the voltage output from the brake controller, the more braking pressure that will be applied to the trailer brakes.

An accelerometer or sensor inside the brake controller measures and responds to the deceleration of the tow vehicle as brakes are applied; the brake controller will send out enough energy (voltage) to the trailer brakes so that they are activated with an intensity that matches the rate of deceleration of the tow vehicle.

Most modern aftermarket proportional brake controllers sense the tow vehicles declaration by means of either an accelerometer or an internal inertia-based sensor. Most also have a wired input (red wire) from the vehicles OEM brake light circuit which contributes into the logic.
With the accelerometer or inertia sensor along with the brake light voltage input, the voltage output to the trailer brakes by the brake controller is produced in proportion to the tow vehicle's brake engagement and rate of deceleration when slowing down or coming to a stop. The quicker you try and stop the tow vehicle, the greater the voltage output that will be produced and sent to the trailer brakes from the controller.

:SOMBRERO:

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sun May 27, 2018 2:35 pm

Infinite_Karma wrote:

I have the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 = https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwi6TYBRAYEiwAOeH7GX9S6CzPxMadeBiqhe7NBkbw0XOcxo0At4z8270CBFe5Ip80dFXwAxoCi7EQAvD_BwE

It's good from my experience.

X2

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun May 27, 2018 3:35 pm

thermorex wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

It did not, there is a blue wire under the dash to connect a brake controller to.

So that blue wire could tell the controller how much the break pedal is pressed (gain)? I’m interested in this, even though I hear best is to have one installed at a travel trailer dealer.

Yes. That is what its meant for.

You could pay someone else to install the brake controller, they will hook the output demand to the blue wire, same as you would.

The difference is the same as doing any other work yourself. You get to empty a portion of your bank account and drink beer while someone else does the work. You decide how much value that has to you, just like any other work on the CRD.

RCS · **Joined:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:19 pm **Posts:** 85

Infinite_Karma wrote:

I have the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 = https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwi6TYBRAYEiwAOeH7GX9S6CzPxMadeBiqhe7NBkbw0XOcxo0At4z8270CBFe5Ip80dFXwAxoCi7EQAvD_BwE

It's good from my experience.

I ordered one from Amazon and it should be here on Wednesday. I am going to use it in my CRD and wife's Cherokee. Might take a little work but will try to hook it up in the CJ8 as well.

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue May 29, 2018 12:31 pm

WolverineFW wrote:

Infinite_Karma wrote:

I have the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 = https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwi6TYBRAYEiwAOeH7GX9S6CzPxMadeBiqhe7NBkbw0XOcxo0At4z8270CBFe5Ip80dFXwAxoCi7EQAvD_BwE

It's good from my experience.

X2

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Not installed on the lib, but vote for the Tekonsha too.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed May 30, 2018 8:04 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

It did not, there is a blue wire under the dash to connect a brake controller to.

So that blue wire could tell the controller how much the break pedal is pressed (gain)? I’m interested in this, even though I hear best is to have one installed at a travel trailer dealer.

The blue wire is strictly for the voltage output circuit coming out of whatever aftermarket brake controller is installed. It feeds a variable voltage signal directly to the trailers electric brakes electromagnets via the blue wire. The greater the voltage output from the brake controller, the more braking pressure that will be applied to the trailer brakes.

An accelerometer or sensor inside the brake controller measures and responds to the deceleration of the tow vehicle as brakes are applied; the brake controller will send out enough energy (voltage) to the trailer brakes so that they are activated with an intensity that matches the rate of deceleration of the tow vehicle.

Most modern aftermarket proportional brake controllers sense the tow vehicles declaration by means of either an accelerometer or an internal inertia-based sensor. Most also have a wired input (red wire) from the vehicles OEM brake light circuit which contributes into the logic.
With the accelerometer or inertia sensor along with the brake light voltage input, the voltage output to the trailer brakes by the brake controller is produced in proportion to the tow vehicle's brake engagement and rate of deceleration when slowing down or coming to a stop. The quicker you try and stop the tow vehicle, the greater the voltage output that will be produced and sent to the trailer brakes from the controller.

:SOMBRERO:

Got it, thanks, I was wondering what the blue wire does, so it actually feeds the brake controller with variable voltage, depending on how hard the brake is pressed. Then brake controller also adjust the brake signal sent to the e-brakes. I think I got it right... Lol

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed May 30, 2018 8:06 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

It did not, there is a blue wire under the dash to connect a brake controller to.

So that blue wire could tell the controller how much the break pedal is pressed (gain)? I’m interested in this, even though I hear best is to have one installed at a travel trailer dealer.

Yes. That is what its meant for.

You could pay someone else to install the brake controller, they will hook the output demand to the blue wire, same as you would.

The difference is the same as doing any other work yourself. You get to empty a portion of your bank account and drink beer while someone else does the work. You decide how much value that has to you, just like any other work on the CRD.

Hehe... I know... Probably the brake controller would explain how to set it, like towing vehicle weight, trailer weight, etc. Which all is common sense if you have the info, I agree.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 30, 2018 9:01 pm

thermorex wrote:

Got it, thanks, I was wondering what the blue wire does, so it actually feeds the brake controller with variable voltage, depending on how hard the brake is pressed. Then brake controller also adjust the brake signal sent to the e-brakes. I think I got it right... Lol

Sorry, you got it a little backwards. The brake controller feeds the blue wire (output not input) with a variable voltage signal based on the measured deceleration rate and the brake light circuit on the tow vehicle which in turns feeds a voltage signal to the brake magnets on the trailer to produce stopping force.... :wink:

rancherman · **Posted:** Wed May 30, 2018 10:07 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Got it, thanks, I was wondering what the blue wire does, so it actually feeds the brake controller with variable voltage, depending on how hard the brake is pressed. Then brake controller also adjust the brake signal sent to the e-brakes. I think I got it right... Lol

Sorry, you got it a little backwards. The brake controller feeds the blue wire (output not input) with a variable voltage signal based on the measured deceleration rate and the brake light circuit on the tow vehicle which in turns feeds a voltage signal to the brake magnets on the trailer to produce stopping force.... :wink:

Yep, most I've seen were a type of 'plumb bob' type potentiometer. It's set up on level surface, and when you apply brakes, it swings forward.. sending voltage down to trailer.
When you are going downhill, it's already swung slightly 'forward', so when you apply brakes, the starting point is already more aggressive. Conversely going uphill it's a little less aggressive.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2018 12:36 am

I'd just like to point out that trailers would be a great application for ABS, turn the gain too high and the trailer ABS keeps brakes from locking.

Which means instead of a trailer trying to pass you on the highway when you slow down the trailer pulls you back when slowing you down.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2018 3:38 am

Sir Sam wrote:

I'd just like to point out that trailers would be a great application for ABS, turn the gain too high and the trailer ABS keeps brakes from locking.

Which means instead of a trailer trying to pass you on the highway when you slow down the trailer pulls you back when slowing you down.

Patent it!

rancherman · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2018 12:17 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

I'd just like to point out that trailers would be a great application for ABS, turn the gain too high and the trailer ABS keeps brakes from locking.

Which means instead of a trailer trying to pass you on the highway when you slow down the trailer pulls you back when slowing you down.

Patent it!

ABS on undampened axles (no shock absorbers) might get REAL interesting.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2018 7:11 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

I'd just like to point out that trailers would be a great application for ABS, turn the gain too high and the trailer ABS keeps brakes from locking.

Which means instead of a trailer trying to pass you on the highway when you slow down the trailer pulls you back when slowing you down.

Patent it!

I wish, problem is anytime you touch on something like towing a bunch of old schoolers come out of the Woodwork with something negative to say. There are certain areas where mindsets are so entrenched its hard to make progress. Just look at how many people still swear at ABS.

rancherman wrote:

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

I'd just like to point out that trailers would be a great application for ABS, turn the gain too high and the trailer ABS keeps brakes from locking.

Which means instead of a trailer trying to pass you on the highway when you slow down the trailer pulls you back when slowing you down.

Patent it!

ABS on undampened axles (no shock absorbers) might get REAL interesting.

Not quite as interesting as a trailor passing you on the highway as it pulls you off the road on whatever vector it feels like taking. Realistically a deterministic computer control running at 5ms execution can handle some pretty crazy control loops.

rancherman · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2018 10:31 pm

Wasn't meant to be negative @SirSam.. far from it! I throw out ideas or concerns as 'seed' or 'food for thought'.. Not blatant sabotage.
All friendly input, maybe you can keep in on the back burner for future consideration. Nothing else.
With variations in trailer weights, loaded or unloaded, multitudes of tire characteristics, natural harmonics, spring rates, rebound rates, at all multitudes of operating speeds... it's going to be something that will need to be addressed.
What DOES concern me is this will embolden trailer pullers even more with 'security'... and push the limits even further of an articulated mousetrap hurtling down the road @ mach 1
Seems to be a ever widening gap between how 'safe' a vehicle can be, and the common sense of the person behind the wheel..
Carry on!

E brake controller

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