GordnadoCRD wrote:
1) Water pump. Don't forget the water pump. It is a wear item, and driven by the timing belt. It is critical for timing belt longevity.
Unlike a gasser you can't just change it when it starts leaking. It will have caused the timing belt to fail before that happens.
Recommend getting a timing belt kit from IDParts. It has everything you need.
2) This is only my opinion, but were I in your shoes, If you absolutely cannot afford ARP studs, at very least put in new TTY head bolts. The moving around described above, is kind of a big deal regarding head gasket life, and the TTY bolts lose their elasticity over time.
Since you already have the original head bolts exposed, you would be wise to install a new set in same manner as ARP studs are installed without removing the head. One at a time to full torque procedure in order of factory torque sequence At least then, you will have restored the head bolt elasticity it came with new, and a set of original bolts is a small fraction of ARP studs.
From my understanding the water pump is a 2 part unit and I only need to replace the front portion which does not disturb the seal. Is that true?
Yes.
Anything else I should do that the original owner may have neglected that's specific to this engine?
Change all filters and fluids front to back, and use proper spec fluids. Anti-freeze lubricity declines with age. Recommend drain and replace. Use only Mopar or Zerex05.
If your transfer case fluid hasn't been drained and changed it may shock you how dirty it gets. ATF+4 same as in the trans.
Also look to your engine mounts. The right one nearly always fails first. Recommend replacing that one at least. If it has already failed, then change both.
Since you will have it off, check the alternator decoupler pulley. If it's bad it will murder your automatic belt tensioner.
Well over half of the problems / complaints have to do with the CP3 having to pull fuel all the way from the tank in the rear.. If it does not already have a fuel lift pump of some sort, I really strongly recommend it.
If you can't afford a Weeks EGR fix, at least install exhaust blockoff plates, and pull the FCV butterfly plate.
Had I known then what I know now, this is the order I would have addressed Mods on my CRD.CRD guide, (short version)
Should be mandatory. (for reliability)
1) Lift pump (In Tank is best) Completely and permanently eliminates easily over half the drivability issues, common with this rig.
2) Provent (or similar, as long as it works)
3) Weeks kits (Passes sniffer and opacity tests on healthy engines. Visual too, IMO, depends on how much you flaunt it.)
Recommended (Things that lean towards optimization and a bit of diminishing returns for your dollar, rather than fixing problems that should never have made it to the market.)
1) Good Thermostat, Healthy cooling system, Especially if you are leaning towards power-ups.
2) good thermal protection for sensors, wiring looms, etc edit - also check wiring looms everywhere they go behind something (fuel filter bracket) around something, or through something (behind alternator, above starter, etc) check for worn insulation, bare wires, etc and fix anything you find (pre-emptive strike) Or you could just wait till something happens and hunt it down then.
3) Fuel filter upgrade (< 5 micrometer)
4) ARP Studs (best installed BEFORE head gasket fails)
5) Silicone CAC hoses and T-bolt clamps
Optional (power-ups and Fun-ups Things to do as time and money budget allows, depending on how you intend to use your CRD.)1) Exhaust (On my list this was actually in highly recommended. Kind of depends on local statutes, or whether one licenses in CA)
2) ECM / TCM Tune
3) Torque converter (kind of goes along with #2) front pump, and any shifting mods desired.
4) Suspension / lift
5) Tires
6) Gearing / diff locks if needed / wanted.
Thanks for your input.[/quote] NP.[/quote]
What's "provent" and where can I find a lift pump guide? I live in FL so no emissions testing or vehicle inspection