I finally got one!

Story time (someone please tell me if this doesn't belong on this part of the forum): I have always wanted a CRD ever since I learned about them. After doing some research I quickly realized that as a broke college student I probably wouldn't be able to afford one but alas my time came. I set an email notifier for any Craiglist posts about CRDs in my area and never got anything until a couple weeks ago when a guy posted his '05 Liberty for sale 800$ "not running". I immediately called him and setup a time to see it. As it turns out the timing belt had slipped (it's at 140k on the odometer with original timing belt), knowing very little about this engine I posted to this forum about the possible damage. After learning about the likelihood of getting lucky with just broken rocker arms I decided to pull the trigger.

Here she is in all her glory. The front end damage is allegedly from a low speed collision 11 months ago. Rear ended some truck. I checked for frame damage or any engine component damage and everything seemed fun. The plastic front end was the only casualty there.

http://imgur.com/a/VhlG2wn

My plan so far:

Order from IDPARTS.com: Timing belt kit, Glow plugs (Etecno 7V. I live in Florida so cold starts aren't a worry), new injector crush washers and O-rings, new intake manifold gasket, new valve cover gasket, and timing tools kit.

Order from eBay: Rocker arms w/o lifters (reusing old lifters)

Total parts order: around 900$ USD.

I've decided that because I'm broke, hate myself, and love double work that I'm not going to replace the head gasket because if I'm to believe what the previous owner told me which was it never lost coolant (it's never actually seen anything other than the factory coolant and the level is fine) and in his 8,000 mile oil change intervals it only burned about half a quart if that. So I don't want to pull the head and risk my dumb booty causing more harm than good. What I will do is get new head bolts and replace all the existing bolts with new ones torqued to spec. All of you may call me an idiot for this and I will probably regret it later but this is probably how I'm going to do it.

My experience level is intermediate. I have pulled a couple motors apart before, and I'm in the middle of replacing the head on a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, but I've never touched diesel in my life. I own plenty of tools and have more than a few friends who are willing to help for the price of a beer and some pizza. When it comes to timing this engine I'm a little lost and I'll have to turn to a more experienced buddy for help there. Any input y'all have on that would be greatly appreciated.


So, thanks for staying along for that long tirade.

What am I missing? Is there anything I need to know or something I'm forgetting to order? Any advice you guys have for me? If any of y'all happen to live around Orlando, FL and want to help that'd be fantastic. I'm trying to do this on a slight budget because I am in college and I don't have insane income but I do realize that some things cost money and it's worth just doing certain things right the first time. Also, anything involving timing these engines after they have lost time would be a huge help. The lack of witness marks is silly.


Thanks again, Jack.

I think it's also worth mentioning that I currently daily drive a 2002 gas Jeep Liberty so I am familiar with the Liberty platform

The only idiot part is ordering a set of torque to yield head bolts to replace what's there. If you are going in that far and it's not using coolant replace the OEM head bolts (one at a time) with ARP studs.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

A set of ARP studs costs almost half of all the parts I'm ordering. If they were cheaper it'd be a no brainier. I'm assuming this head gasket is going to pop at some point and when it inevitably does I will budget for ARP studs that go around.

Go with the Bosch 5V glow plugs, but keep the 7V programming. If you ever take a trip North in the Winter (or just have a cold snap), you'll be much happier with the starting performance. Price should be about the same for them as for the Etecnos.

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2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox

Awesome. Thanks.

False economy. You state "What I will do is get new head bolts and replace all the existing bolts with new ones torqued to spec. All of you may call me an idiot for this and I will probably regret it later but this is probably how I'm going to do it." Generally you can only get new head bolts as a set with a new head gasket for ca. $240 but let's assume you find a place for new bolts for say $150. ARP studs are on sale right now at https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... -crd-4044/ for $350. You might at best save $200 skipping ARP studs now or maybe only $110.

If you explore the cost a future gasket failure by going cheap now it's 1) redo the timing belt job sooner rather than later at a cost in parts of $400 or maybe $150 less if you can skip the water pump; 2) new head gasket say $100; 3) those ARP studs you did not get on sale $360 - you do the math for parts and time and hope the later job does not include redoing rockers/lifters or worse.

Do what you want but I know what I'd do.

PS yes on the 5v plugs with 7v programming although 7v ones have done fine for me in N. FL and for the current owner of my 05 north of Detroit.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I'm following your logic. I put a post out on the forum asking for unused head bolts and I've had a couple responses and it seems like they'll be costing me way less than 150$ probably leaning more towards the cost of a stamp. So realistically I'm saving over 300$ now which I'd rather spend on the rest of the repairs. Does that change your opinion at all? I'm seriously considering doing the gasket but I'd rather be able to afford gas to get to work and food lol. I know that there is a strong possibility that I could just change the bolts while I'm in that deep and make it all the way to the next timing belt change where I'll be in a better financial standing and able to do a head gasket and studs. My end goal is to use ARP studs because of the exceedingly positive feedback here but I genuinely can't afford a gasket and studs and I'd rather do them both in one sitting. Why would a failed head gasket later cause me to have to redo the lifters and rockers again? Or am I just misreading what you're saying?

I appreciate your criticism and I'm trying not to be stupid cheap and hard headed but if I could easily afford all these things there wouldn't even be a slight hesitation from me.

To each their own and I am likely not in your financial position. So....

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

To think you will have saved money by waiting until the head gasket fails to upgrade to ARP studs shows 2 things clearly:

1) You have severely underestimated the cost of a CRD head gasket failure.

2) You have mistakenly thought of the ARP stud upgrade as a failed head gasket repair.
The whole point of upgrading before head gasket failure, is that it logically prevents head gasket failure, and the extensive costs involved.

Granted, If you replace the TTY bolts in the same manner as one would with ARP studs, it is possible that head gasket failure could be deferred for some time. It certainly would be better than keeping the old bolts that have lost their elasticity.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

What are the direct consequences of a head gasket failure in a CRD? I've dealt with it in my gasser but the only consequence was some loss of coolant.

Thanks, Jack.

Overheating leading to warped or cracked aluminum head requiring head replacement.

Coolant in your oil which can wash lubricant out of your wrist pins and bearings leading to failure.

Since the turbo is oil cooled, coolant in the oil could end up in the turbocharger, causing lack of lubrication and failure.

Those are just the major ones I can think of off the top of my head.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

All I've got to say is Lightning Motorsports, about $300 for ARP's. Wait until you have the extra $$ for ARP's!

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I'm leaning towards a new head gasket. Where can I find a good video it or write up on it? This is a quirky engine.

Start here...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5o_FJpBEKjk

You'll see links to the next parts as you go. It does not cover removing the head and replacing the gasket, but there really isn't that much to it. Removing the turbo is the hardest part, but it is just a matter of using a number of extensions and wrenches in very uncomfortable positions to get it off. Plenty of people here have commented on replacing the head gasket, so do a little searching (use google) to get more familiar before you start.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

We have a few "0" and "2" hole head gaskets in our shop. $75 shipped if your engine is using a matching gasket.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Are they the full sets with bolts?

Full set head bolts on ebay for $50 Buy it now.

Keith, Are there different looking styles of head gaskets for the 2.8 liter. I see some containing square and oblong holes and some with all round holes on ebay. Some come from England and some are in the US. What are the differences. You can get them with or without head bolts in the packages.