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The clicks you are hearing are not from the pump, but the Fuel Quantity Solenoid valve mounted into the back. (as you already stated)
The CP3 is very hardy and RARELY fails. The FQS natural state (no voltage applied) is WIDE OPEN. Maxumum Fuel.
FAR more likely that it's the Fuel Pressure Solenoid at the rear of the rail.
Here's a couple tests, but they will require 2 people, unless you have a starter jump button.
The quick way (not an absolute positive, unless it works):
Remove the engine cover so you can see the rear part of the fuel rail under the electrical loom. You will likely have to remove all loom attaching nuts, and lift the wiring loom up to provide access space.
Using a brass drift, or a small brass or lead (soft) hammer:
While someone is cranking the engine with the key, LIGHTLY tap on the Fuel Pressure Solenoid.
The solenoid's function is to precisely leak amounts as directed by the ECM, to establish upper limit of fuel pressure.
More voltage = more pressure. Key off = 0 pressure.
When cranking, NO fuel should escape.
If this solenoid valve sticks, it will leak, preventing sufficient fuel pressure (or any at all) to build and allow the engine to start.
Once the engine is started, (ether, propane, etc) the vibrations shake the valve stiction loose, and allow normal pressure to build, and the engine continues to run, until next time it's shut off.
LIGHTLY tapping on this solenoid, or the end of the rail should accomplish the same thing. If this makes the engine start, the FPS valve is your problem.
If the solenoid has completely failed, this method won't work.
Proper way to test this:
At the rear end of the rail, on the left hand side, there is a hose fitting, with a short hose that carries low pressure return diesel from the end of the rail to a small plastic multi-port manifold, and from there, back to the tank. The manifold gathers return fuel from CP3 (Large, black) from the injector bleed (small, black) From the rail, solenoid end (medium, blue) to the return-to-tank (large, black) It should be attached to the intake manifold with a small bolt, closest to the fuel filter area. It is often quite brittle. so best to unbolt it from the manifold before working with the fuel return lines, or you risk snapping it somehow.
ONce the manifold is loose, locate the (usually) blue line that carries return fuel from the rail solenoid discharge, back to the manifold. Probably short with a 90 degree bend. Loosen the clamp attaching it to the rail fitting, and unplug it from the rail. Use a bolt or something to plug the rubber hose, so return diesel from other sources doesn't spray out. Once this is done, use a container or another hose to a container (just in case) and have someone crank the engine with the key.
There should be NO fuel come out. If ANY comes out, the FPS valve is your problem.
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