OK my main suspect is that the lead coming out of fuse #16 (15A) which had blown has an issue on it somewhere. This provides +12 volts to the ECM as does Fuse #6 and Fuse #26 in the PDC.
It also provides +12 volts to various solenoids and relays which may pull down the voltage a bit without blowing a fuse. The wiring may at first have shorted to chassis, blown the fuse and ruptured the wiring.

So turning to the 2005 KJ Wiring Diagrams which I presume you have downloaded at http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ with the ignition ON take your digital volt meter and check for +12 volts on Page 8W-30-25 at both sides of fuses 6,16 and 26....should be +12 volts there.

Then check for this voltage at the ECM on the Brown/Pink wires at Connector C2 pins 1 and 3 and C2 pin 5 on Brown/Red wire. Best is to strap the black lead of the meter to chassis and strap a pin or needle to the Red meter lead and carefully piece the wire to be tested with the pin/needle so as to break through the insulation....you can fill the holes made by the pin with some glue later.

If you do not have +12 volts at the ECM connectors trace backwards to pin 87 of the ASD relay which should be energized when ignition is ON....if there is not a SKIS error! Connectors C117, C105 and C111 are in series with these +12 volt feed lines to the ECM. If pin 87 of ASD relay is not at +12 volts then the relay is bad or is not being energized....you can remove the ASD relay and jumper pins 30 to 87 inside the empty relay socket as a test.

Also check connector C2 at the ECM pins 2,4,6 are at ground....Black/Dark Green wires.

Let me know the results of your measurements....there are plenty other places where the wiring could go wrong but there must have been a reason for the fuse to have blown in the first place so best to start here.

Edit to add: The ASD relay output going missing really should solidly light up the SKIS red LED on left side of the cluster...test if the LED is OK by holding IN the Odometer Reset push button while turning ignition ON.

A better manual for these CEL codes may be the 2006 KJ Service Manual as there is a good DTC index at the end which directs you to things to check but bear in mind the changes between models.

I think I found the culprit..... 2 chaffed ground wires near the left headlight possibly making contact while the car was in motion... repaired that.
I'll be working around the fuel pump area this weekend and i'll then see if this little beast returns to life.

Post some pictures of what you found if you can. Others may learn from your experiences....

WWdiesel, these two chafed ground wires were previously installed by me to replace the rusted ground wires under the headlight. The new wires were supposed have repaired the bad ground connection but did not.
I did not take a picture. The battery tray and battery are back in place. If I have to go back in there, then I will take a photo.

Pictures I took a couple years back when I checked those grounds in TWO different locations on my Jeep.
First groundis the one behind the left front headlight on top of the fender, second ground is on the firewall behind the brake booster.

Third one is on back of the left inner fender, kinda under the brake master cylinder.

OK my main suspect is that the lead coming out of fuse #16 (15A) which had blown has an issue on it somewhere. This provides +12 volts to the ECM as does Fuse #6 and Fuse #26 in the PDC.
It also provides +12 volts to various solenoids and relays which may pull down the voltage a bit without blowing a fuse. The wiring may at first have shorted to chassis, blown the fuse and ruptured the wiring.

So turning to the 2005 KJ Wiring Diagrams which I presume you have downloaded at http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ with the ignition ON take your digital volt meter and check for +12 volts on Page 8W-30-25 at both sides of fuses 6,16 and 26....should be +12 volts there.

Then check for this voltage at the ECM on the Brown/Pink wires at Connector C2 pins 1 and 3 and C2 pin 5 on Brown/Red wire. Best is to strap the black lead of the meter to chassis and strap a pin or needle to the Red meter lead and carefully piece the wire to be tested with the pin/needle so as to break through the insulation....you can fill the holes made by the pin with some glue later.

If you do not have +12 volts at the ECM connectors trace backwards to pin 87 of the ASD relay which should be energized when ignition is ON....if there is not a SKIS error! Connectors C117, C105 and C111 are in series with these +12 volt feed lines to the ECM. If pin 87 of ASD relay is not at +12 volts then the relay is bad or is not being energized....you can remove the ASD relay and jumper pins 30 to 87 inside the empty relay socket as a test.

Also check connector C2 at the ECM pins 2,4,6 are at ground....Black/Dark Green wires.

Let me know the results of your measurements....there are plenty other places where the wiring could go wrong but there must have been a reason for the fuse to have blown in the first place so best to start here.

Edit to add: The ASD relay output going missing really should solidly light up the SKIS red LED on left side of the cluster...test if the LED is OK by holding IN the Odometer Reset pushbutton while turning ignition ON.

A better manual for these CEL codes may be the 2006 KJ Service Manual as there is a good DTC index at the end which directs you to things to check but bear in mind the changes between models.

1. P0091 Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit Low Electronics regarding the FQS at the back of the CP3
2. P0193 Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high input Electronics regarding Fuel Pressure Sensor in the middle of the rail
3. P0652 Low Voltage at the #1 Sensor Supply Circuit Electronics regarding the FQS at the back of the CP3
4. P2295 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Control Circuit Low Electronics regarding the FPS at the back of the rail.

Pin check Troubleshooting flow charts for all of these are in the factory service manuals online or if you've downloaded them as I have.

It doesn't mean the units, it's the wiring/connectors/etc. Not the sensors themselves, although they could cause a no start condition. Good you know you truly have some known good units.

Yes check the harness very carefully, it took me almost 9 months of fiddling with my jeep on and off until I found this part of the harness. This caused 13 CELs to pop and the ASD fuse as well. This was near the A/C accumulator on the passenger side firewall on an exposed piece of harness Now it's taped and split loomed!

Yes check the harness very carefully, it took me almost 9 months of fiddling with my jeep on and off until I found this part of the harness. This caused 13 CELs to pop and the ASD fuse as well. This was near the A/C accumulator on the passenger side firewall on an exposed piece of harness Now it's taped and split loomed!

This FCM is used in the 2005 CRD only.
FCM - Mopar part number 56044599AF

Amazon:> https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler ... B013M88YCW

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mo ... 56044599af

dBay:> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... f&_sacat=0

You may be in luck?
According to what I have read, 2005 Liberty's including the V6 gassers all use this same front module 56044599af. So boneyards should have plenty of them?