Hey guys, I previously posted about my Liberty project where I was replacing the rocker arms and fixing other damage from it losing time. I got everything apart and was able to repair the damage and put it all back together again. On reassembly I managed to break the fuel return line and the fuel return line block where the fuel return line connects. Aside from that the engine ran and it ran well. I was able to drive it around for a little while but had to stop because of the amount of diesel leaking out of the injectors due to the broken line. I ordered a new line and new return line block from idparts and put them in this morning. After I put them in I went for a test drive, during the test drive I seem to have lost boost pressure and then the car let stall. I went and I would bleed air from the filter head and it would start right up again. This happened four or five times. On the last time the engine ran very rough and came to a complete stop and would start, but would start very rough and would not move in gear, as soon as I would shift into drive or reverse it would stall. Since then I have pulled codes and taking some videos that I will attach to the bottom. I attempted to bleed the injector lines and the rail by disconnecting the injector line and cranking the engine until gas flowed freely and having a second person tighten it down. After doing all that I attempted to start it again and now it won't start at all. Just cranks. Currently the car is stuck down the street for me and because I live on a hill I can't get it up into my driveway. Any thoughts on what I should try next?

I also think it's important to add that every time I crank the car the fuel primer goes soft and I have to prime it again. I'm not sure if I'm just stupid and that's how it goes or if I am still losing fuel pressure somewhere.

Photos and videos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YaSuxntBnTs1gHnV7

I'm assuming your vehicle doesn't have the aftermarket fuel lift pump that so many of us praise around here? I would start by changing your fuel filter to make sure it isn't plugged and causing strain on the CP3 fuel pump. Once you've done that, search for any cuts, cracks, abrasions, etc in the fuel lines going all the way back to the tank. Take some electrical tape or something and wrap the two fitting just forward of the tank very tightly so they cannot leak air INTO the line. Prime the pump again and see if it will run. Also, remove the bleeder detent from the filter head and see if you can find a replacement one at your local Napa, etc. They CAN go bad, as well as the soft aluminum "seat" underneath them. If the seat goes bad you need to build a bleeder extension or replace the head.

Ultimately, I am guessing you need a lift pump, but you might be able to get it running temporarily without one by doing some of the stuff above.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

I just don't understand how it was driving fine yesterday and now I'm dealing with all these issues. I spent about an hour cranking and clearing the lines, so much so that my battery died and I had to break out a jump kit. Why is it that all of the sudden I now can't even get it to start? Any non-fuel related theories?

Every manual pump/primer I've ever seen, does exactly what you are seeing.

Pump until resistance is felt (pressure is built up between filter and injection pump). Crack open bleeder, and since filter is the highest point, any trapped air should be forced out.. Pressure is gone too.. and the pumper will feel soft until you pump again. The less air, the fewer pumps it takes to get a firm 'push'.

I don't know about this filter head, but most I work with will have a spring loaded piston that acts as an accumulator. Most of the time, this piston is also part of the actual hand pump. (piston within a piston so to speak) So pumping will give some volume along with pressure.. and will give a steady squirt of air and or fuel out the bleeder until the accumulator is relaxed again. Most filter heads put this in the highest place in the head, so air naturally goes to this spot.. and is the first out when bleeder is cracked open.

Same when cranking. The CP3 is pumping, which draws off the higher pressure you built up.. and it now feels 'soft'.

Are you getting any fuel vapor out the tail pipe when you are cranking? puff puff puff puff? You'll need a second set of eyes for this.

Hopefully it's something that didn't appreciate being unhooked, or reattached during your head work.

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

I don't have two people to look at the tailpipe when I did get it running the couple times there was a whole lot of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. I'm heading to pick up a filter now and I'm going to swap it and see what happens

The fuel supply line enters the engine bay near the fuel return block. Maybe while you were replacing the fuel return block, you bumped the supply, causing the old rubber tubing to crack (or just become partially disconnected).

So after a new filter and bleeding all the air again I'm still having a no start condition. If you watch these two videos you'll see it try and sputter to life. Makes some horrible noise I couldn't identify. Let me know what you guys think.

Maybe the timing belt skipped a tooth? I had let it run after timing and I readjusted the tensioner once already to ensure the belt was tight but sh*t happens.

Also there is a video of a scan tool showing live data including the fuel rail pressure while I'm trying to crank

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EezhPJDkn5oqHSdL8

Edit: I really think it's a timing issue. Here's a video of me trying to start it with the pedal to the floor
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qFZmnrEuHdMJ5LnL6

first check if everyting is timed properly , also does it smoke a bit at tail pipe and does it smell like unburnt fuel ?

See, I understand how to time the engine and change timing belts etc, but how do I verify time? I couldn't say much about the smell because everything smells like diesel from bleeding the air

get somebody behind your jeep when you try starting it , ask that person if they see any smoke at tail pipe

What would that indicate? I'm unable to do that for a little while and I'd like to brainstorm other options so I'm curious as to what that would mean. Smoke VS no smoke.

Put the crank where the witness mark is at 3 o clock. Then try and insert the lock pins in each cam. You might have to rotate the engine 1 time. If you can’t get the pins in than it’s out of time

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Ok. I'll tow it back to the driveway and tear it down to the timing system again and take a peek. I'll update tomorrow. Any thoughts on those videos guys?

Same as when you built it. Just back up a step or 2, get the crank aligned first, (pin in the back of block, going through flex plate) and see if the cams are aligned (under the screw- in plugs) don't freak yet if cams are not aligned on first attempt. If not, roll the engine (crankshaft)over ONE time, and see if cams are aligned.
If timing has jumped, one or both cams will be off.

Videos are tough to diagnose. But what I've seen is the first video (with the narrow view) it seems fairly smooth, but the other 2 vids seem pretty rough.
Is that diesel fuel jumping around by the injectors? From bleeding?
Rough idle, stalling, can be lots of air in the system, jumped timing... I
When you say LOTS of white smoke, was that just the initial start up after assembly? or all the time?
If all the time, I'd say you are getting plenty of fuel, and it sounds more like timing is off.

Just fmi, when a rocker jumps off during assembly, is it possible to complete the installation of the cover, or is the slipped rocker going to prevent the cover from going on down? anyone?

'smoke vs. no smoke'.... If you have white vapor during cranking, it means diesel is in fact being injected. It just hasn't been lit.
If you are seeing it after it starts, it means it's either really cold and will clear up fast as heat builds... or the valve train is 'off' and not allowing cylinder pressure to build enough to make heat, causing poor burn. or you have a bad injector/ or 2 injector harness swapped.
Double check your injector harness for proper order!!

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

Understood. As far as I know you can definitely knock a rocker off its valve spring and still complete reinstall. Also, it's important to note that all these issues arose multiple days and many uneventful starts AFTER all the work I did.

There are too many ways air can get in without a lift pump. I had replaced all soft fuel lines with non-pinching hose clamps when I installed the in-tank lift pump. Two weeks ago my lift pump had loose electrical connection and I experienced exact same symptoms: multiple primes will get the car started for few seconds/minutes each time. An in-tank lift pump will go a long way for the reliability of this vehicle. You can get a generic in-tank pump from eBay for around $50 + $10 for the connector + hoses and clamps.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=E7181M
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=pt1402

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'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover

Yeah, I wouldn't try to start it anymore without checking the timing. That is a seriously rough crank. Report back with what you find. Air in fuel isn't usually that rough.

When you did the timing belt, did you install the tensioner, run the engine for 15 - 20 seconds, then re-adjust the tensioner? They always loosen a bit after running for a few seconds. If it started loose and wasn't adjusted after running, it is possible it loosened enough to skip a tooth on the belt. Just one possibility!

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

Yeah. I was a little over-ambitious and cranked it more than I would have liked to. I am aware that the belt loosens and I did let it run after timing, tightened it, and then let it run some more and it held the tension.

I kind of wish that I hadn't and this was just a jumped tooth but I'm very concerned because I feel as if it may have dropped a valve from the original timing belt failure. I bought this car broken so I have no idea the conditions surrounding the original failure so it's entirely possible that a valve was damaged and after putting down new rockers decided to crap out. Either that or when dropping the valve cover back down I knocked a rocker out of place. Although I do really doubt that because as I previously stated after originally installing the hardware and starting the car it ran great and I was able to drive it until I went to repair this fuel leak. It's probably coincidence. I feel as if I got all the air out of the lines and now I'm dealing with some sort of timing issue.

I hope it just jumped a tooth, if it did do y'all think that would kill my new rockers or do I have a little wiggle room with timing?

one thing im going to say , it is very important to be very careful when open anything in fuel system , i got lucky only 2 injectors needed replacement , so 2mic filter is a must , so if engine timing is correct , then check compression and test fuel injectors , but that usually sets low fuel pressure codes

So as it turns out, the timing had jumped a tooth in the tensioner was set a little loose. I was going to set the tension again and I misread the torque spec on the tensioner and popped the threads out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2Yw58px34vSb8Wz26

Am I screwed or can I Helicoil it? I've never used a Helicoil before. Should I just get a new rear timing cover? At least I know it's not a fuel delivery issue or anything else.....