The problem is fixed, thought I would update this thread, and relay a couple of things I learned in this process:
1. None of the big box stores have a code reader that will pull ABS codes. Some claim they can but they can't.
2. Since it is usually a wiring issue to the back wheel sensors I thought I'd investigate that first. I used this write-up, with modifications:
http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/abstest.htm3. I'd agree with that author, that the first place to start looking is at connector C307 under the rear seat. No need to pull and short the connectors at the sensors just yet. Check each set of pins with your ohm meter. The sensor will read about 1.3Mohms, but it will only read that in one direction, so swap the + and - leads and check both ways (must have a diode or the like in there). When I did that it was pretty obvious that one pair of pins read 1.3Mo and the other was open (infinite).
NOTE: I found the diagram in that link has the sides reversed (pass and driver) on the C307 connector. At least they were backwards on my car.
4. Once you know the side, pull the abs sensor connector. Check the sensor to see that it reads 1.3Mo without the wires. If not you got a bad sensor. If it's the wires (most likely) check for where the connection to the pin in the C307 goes away (a meter that makes a noise when shorted and some long length of wire help quite a bit in this). The wire loom is slit, so it is easy to pop the wires out of the loom and check at various spots along the way.
5. When you find the break, fix it, and you are in business. My dash lites all went off after a few 100 feet of driving forward after the fix.