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 Post subject: ABS ESP-BAS and Skid lites on
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 11:22 am 
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Posts: 279
All of a sudden the other day, the CRD beeped at me and the ESP, ABS and Skid lites were on.

When I went to take a look at it with Torque and the OBDII reader, there were no CPU codes (I guess that made sense, engine lite was off). So I am wondering how I can read these codes, which I am guessing are in the ABS controller or the like. Is there some way Torque-Lite can read these, or do I have to go to a dealer to get the trouble codes?

I am guessing that this is a wire or speed sensor issue at one of more wheels, but it sure be nice to have some codes to narrow down where to look. But if anyone recognizes these symptoms and has a suggestion as to where to look first, that would be great.

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 Post subject: Re: ABS ESP-BAS and Skid lites on
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 2:56 pm 
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Steve777 wrote:
All of a sudden the other day, the CRD beeped at me and the ESP, ABS and Skid lites were on.

When I went to take a look at it with Torque and the OBDII reader, there were no CPU codes (I guess that made sense, engine lite was off). So I am wondering how I can read these codes, which I am guessing are in the ABS controller or the like. Is there some way Torque-Lite can read these, or do I have to go to a dealer to get the trouble codes?

I am guessing that this is a wire or speed sensor issue at one of more wheels, but it sure be nice to have some codes to narrow down where to look. But if anyone recognizes these symptoms and has a suggestion as to where to look first, that would be great.

To read stored soft codes that reset themselves automatically, you will need a very good code reader like the dealer has or a SnapOn or similar one. Most inexpensive code readers are not capable of performing this function. :roll:

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 Post subject: Re: ABS ESP-BAS and Skid lites on
PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 2:31 pm 
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Location: Virginia, west of D.C. / In the middle of moving to Roanoke
When I had that issue - the cruise control also wouldn't engage and the speedo stopped registering.

My problem was solved by looking at 2 items in the ABS system:

1.) The (rear) ABS sensor wiring that ran under the carpet and out through the floor under the back seat to ABS sensors in the rear brakes.
My wiring was still good (there are replacement pigtails to splice in at the end of the body wiring, if you have to replace some of the harness wiring between the dash area and out through the exit area under the seats. NAPA has them, they're inexpensive.)

2.) My issue was that one of the ABS sensors in a rear caliper (thats where the wiring on the other side of the plug mentioned above goes) was bad.
Jeep dealer wanted to replace the whole system. I could tell they were just guessing.
I guessed a lot cheaper than they did. I got the 2 plug splice kits (just in case I needed them) and 2 ABS sensors at NAPA, and replaced my caliper sensors.
Whole job once I had the parts took me twice as long as it takes to jack up each rear corner and remove/reinstall the wheel.

Maybe I was lucky, but thats pretty much as easy a fix as it can be, in my case.

It's cheap and 'fast', and at 130K miles, it's falling under 'regular maintenance' as far as I'm concerned.

Apparently there are similar issues that affect the front ABS as well, and are part of the same system. I tackled the rear first, and didn't need to do the front half of the system, but if I have issues again - I'll start there this time.

Good luck.

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- JBA 2.5 inch Silver kit and UCAs installed at 125K miles.
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Waiting for time, limber fingers, and good weather to do my HDS Model 001 Thermostat unit swap.


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 Post subject: Re: ABS ESP-BAS and Skid lites on
PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 12:31 pm 
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Location: Sanford, MI
Sometimes a bad brake light switch, actuated by the brake pedal, can cause all of those lights to come on and wig out.

It may be worth checking out too. Thing is, once removed, you have to replace with a new one.

Kevin

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 Post subject: Re: ABS ESP-BAS and Skid lites on
PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 6:48 pm 
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The problem is fixed, thought I would update this thread, and relay a couple of things I learned in this process:

1. None of the big box stores have a code reader that will pull ABS codes. Some claim they can but they can't.

2. Since it is usually a wiring issue to the back wheel sensors I thought I'd investigate that first. I used this write-up, with modifications: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/abstest.htm

3. I'd agree with that author, that the first place to start looking is at connector C307 under the rear seat. No need to pull and short the connectors at the sensors just yet. Check each set of pins with your ohm meter. The sensor will read about 1.3Mohms, but it will only read that in one direction, so swap the + and - leads and check both ways (must have a diode or the like in there). When I did that it was pretty obvious that one pair of pins read 1.3Mo and the other was open (infinite).

NOTE: I found the diagram in that link has the sides reversed (pass and driver) on the C307 connector. At least they were backwards on my car.

4. Once you know the side, pull the abs sensor connector. Check the sensor to see that it reads 1.3Mo without the wires. If not you got a bad sensor. If it's the wires (most likely) check for where the connection to the pin in the C307 goes away (a meter that makes a noise when shorted and some long length of wire help quite a bit in this). The wire loom is slit, so it is easy to pop the wires out of the loom and check at various spots along the way.

5. When you find the break, fix it, and you are in business. My dash lites all went off after a few 100 feet of driving forward after the fix.

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