Just got my rear lower control arms recall notice

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:00 am

I don't know if this is true for everyone, but my notice was explicitly mentioning the 2006 model year. That could just simply be because that's what mine is. I don't know. It also mentioned they were defective from rust attack in the inner cavities, as they used no form of rust protection there.

Further, it states that if you have already replaced the original ones by some aftermarket / non-factory source, bring the receipt and they will pay it.
Even further it states if this was done, and the replacements are already rusted, they will reimburse as above, and additionally replace the existing rusted ones at no charge.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:46 am

mrhemi wrote:

While the wording of the NHTSB notice is a bit ambiguous, I believe it is referring only to vehicles not included in the original recall. I just checked both of my CRDs (which had the recall performed previously) and they currently show no outstanding recall notices.

Quantifies my theory!

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2018 1:12 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

WolverineFW wrote:

So I wonder what is different from the last one?

From what I have read the difference is: the first recall only involved "Rust Belt" states and / or locations; this second new recall covers all locations.
Most likely, only vehicles that did not receive a recall notice last time or have not had the recall performed previously by vin number will receive the new recall notice. :roll:

Except I am in Canada and on the west coast far from the rust belt and I received this recall notice at least 3 or 4 years ago.

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BigfootHunter · **Joined:** Thu May 31, 2012 10:46 pm **Posts:** 43

Does anyone know if they are using the exact same style arms with the raised swaybar attachment points, or if they're using the newer boxed style replacement (similar to the MOOG ones on IDParts). Might just buy those and ask for reimbursement. Though not sure if that would be covered if it's not a mopar part #.

crasher · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:13 am

GordnadoCRD wrote:

I don't know if this is true for everyone, but my notice was explicitly mentioning the 2006 model year. That could just simply be because that's what mine is. I don't know. It also mentioned they were defective from rust attack in the inner cavities, as they used no form of rust protection there.

Further, it states that if you have already replaced the original ones by some aftermarket / non-factory source, bring the receipt and they will pay it.
Even further it states if this was done, and the replacements are already rusted, they will reimburse as above, and additionally replace the existing rusted ones at no charge.

Local Jeep dealer has my updated address change for a year, since I moved here, and when I checked the link for the recall info my 2006 CRD showed that I wasn't eligible for the recall.
:roll:

Bastages.

JeepCares · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2018 3:18 pm

Hello everyone,
If you have any questions or need any assistance working with your dealers, please feel free to send our team a private message. We would be more than happy to offer our support.
Julie
Jeep Social Care Specialist

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:54 pm

There ya go!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2018 8:57 pm

What arms are they putting in as replacements?

I haven’t got my notice and I don’t plan to bring mine to the dealer for anything.
When I completed my lift back in November, took a good look at the rear lower arms and there was no rust and the bushings were still tight.
Which was quite surprising for over 220,000 miles.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:53 pm

Stopped by local FCA dealer today and asked about recall. Ended up talking to parts manager and the mechanic who by the way is a personal friend of mine.
They did not have the parts in stock, but they will be there Friday and my good friend the mechanic said he will give me the new parts and allow me to install them myself in my shop.

Parts manager said there were 60 of them in the regional warehouse.
I will bring the removed parts back to him so he can file the claim and get the labor and he does not have to touch it. :roll:

Can't beat that deal! I like doing things myself.... :BANANA:

joe_ · **Posted:** Tue Jul 03, 2018 12:04 am

From one of the links WWDiesel posted earlier:

NHTSA wrote:

Some 2004-2007 MY Jeep Liberty vehicles, not included in recall L27 (NHTSA 12V-085), may have been built with rear lower control arms that can experience excessive corrosion. The rear lower control arms may experience excessive corrosion, eventually resulting in a fracture.

The suspect period began at Toledo North Assembly Plant on April 29, 2003, when 2004 MY production began with a new rear lower control arm design which resulted in insufficient water management and reduced corrosion protection, to June 29, 2007, when production ended.

Similar vehicles not included in the recall were built with the 2002-2003 MY rear lower control arm, which is of a different design.

source: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2018/RCLRPT-18V278-6812.pdf

The 2005 and 2006 parts catalog originally listed the rear lower control arms as 52128866AA. Plugging this part number into a Mopar parts site shows this part is still available, and does not show the part as being superseded. This goes with what idparts says:

idparts wrote:

The recall involved replacing the rear control arms, but, with the SAME DESIGNED PART. The the replacement part still suffers from the same problem where the sway bar bracket rusts off! All the recall did was literally push the problem down the road a few years until the truck was old enough it wasn't Jeep's liability.

Also they have a good picture comparing the OEM design to the Moog (aftermarket) design: https://www.idparts.com/jeep-liberty-crd-rear-lower-control-arm-52128866aa-moog-ck641180-p-6146.html

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jul 26, 2018 9:46 pm

Update!
The backordered new and improved Mopar lower rear control arms finally came in and I picked them up today at the local Dodge/Jeep dealer with all intentions of bringing them home and installing them. I actually had removed one of the OEM arms and then opened the Mopar box and laid one of the so called new and improved arms beside it, I was not impressed! I quickly realised the OEM arms are a much heavier and robust design and actually weigh more. :shock:

Needless to say, I put the OEM arm back on my Jeep and I will take the new arms back to to the dealer and tell them I am declining the recall.

Now a caveat: I don't live in a rust belt state where many of the suspension parts on our Jeeps can be exposed to the highly detrimental effects of road salt.
So if you live where salt and / or rust is a problem you may want to go ahead and have the recall performed???

I just was not impressed with the replacement parts....
The new ones are made out of a thinner metal, kinda remind me of the POS stamped boomerang! :roll:

picture of them side by side:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jul 26, 2018 10:42 pm

My understanding is this recall is based on the original part having no rust / corrosion treatment on the inside of the tube, and they rust through from the inside.

If your original type ones are still good, perhaps they can be either treated with some good anti-corrosion product on the inside,and re-sealed, or filled with something to prevent any air/moisture access to the insides.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 27, 2018 11:27 am

GordnadoCRD wrote:

My understanding is this recall is based on the original part having no rust / corrosion treatment on the inside of the tube, and they rust through from the inside.

If your original type ones are still good, perhaps they can be either treated with some good anti-corrosion product on the inside,and re-sealed, or filled with something to prevent any air/moisture access to the insides.

I did notice the OEM arms do have a single drain hole in the bottom of the square tube. The drain holes are not sealed.
The engineer in me tells me that you could tap the hole for a small pipe plug, spray the insides through the drain hole real good with a rust inhibitor, and then plug the holes?

The new replacement arms are open on each end so there can be no accumulation inside of them.
Only problem is, the metal is much thinner metal and the arms are much lighter weight. :shock:

APC9199 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 27, 2018 12:15 pm

So, here's my take on the situation. If you think your arms are good, go buy some Evapo-Rust or equivalent and carefully fill the inside of the tube with it. Leave it for long enough to dissolve as much rust as possible. Empty the tube and wash the inside with acetone or brake cleaner to remove all grease and oil. Buy a small can of liquid bed liner or POR-15 if you're really worried about rust returning. Pour enough into the hole to coat the entire inside, plug it with a rubber plug and roll it around slowly to let every surface get covered. Pull the plug and let any residual drain out. Once fully dried, take some expanding foam insulation or 2-part packing foam and use it to fill the entire tube. Plug it with a screw as WWDiesel suggested, if you wish. There will be no corrosion inside of the tube this way, for a very very long time. Take a few minutes to strip and paint the outside while you're at it and you should be good to go for a long time.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 27, 2018 12:35 pm

APC9199 wrote:

So, here's my take on the situation. If you think your arms are good, go buy some Evapo-Rust or equivalent and carefully fill the inside of the tube with it. Leave it for long enough to dissolve as much rust as possible. Empty the tube and wash the inside with acetone or brake cleaner to remove all grease and oil. Buy a small can of liquid bed liner or POR-15 if you're really worried about rust returning. Pour enough into the hole to coat the entire inside, plug it with a rubber plug and roll it around slowly to let every surface get covered. Pull the plug and let any residual drain out. Once fully dried, take some expanding foam insulation or 2-part packing foam and use it to fill the entire tube. Plug it with a screw as WWDiesel suggested, if you wish. There will be no corrosion inside of the tube this way, for a very very long time. Take a few minutes to strip and paint the outside while you're at it and you should be good to go for a long time.

All excellent suggestions! :wink:

spoon · **Posted:** Mon Jan 28, 2019 5:51 pm

Well isn't this timely, Just got the recall notice on my 05. While northern New Mexico isn't in the rust belt certain areas use a magnesium chloride spray that will rust the chrome off of a ball hitch! Think I'll take a look at mine.

Ludi Neethling · **Joined:** Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:04 am **Posts:** 87

Got the same recall here in South Africa. I agree with WWDiesel, the new arm does not look as robust as the old one. Nevertheless, mine was replaced.

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jan 29, 2019 11:52 am

Ludi Neethling wrote:

Got the same recall here in South Africa. I agree with WWDiesel, the new arm does not look as robust as the old one. Nevertheless, mine was replaced.

New arms they are using are actually just like the early model ones and better than what they are replacing

Just got my rear lower control arms recall notice

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