I am thinking I would like to try one of diesel_guy86's modified turbos in at least one of my CRDs. I have low mileage units with turbos in excellent condition.

But I am quite sure that I don't want to go max horsepower with my engines... I think the better way to go would be to get a substantial increase in power AND better my fuel economy all at the same time. I am wondering if there is a combination of this upgraded turbo, a custom tune, and some minor work on the injectors to achieve this.

Would asking for 210 - 220 horsepower and getting better fuel economy asking too much? Would it be better targetting about 200 hp or lower to achieve better efficiencies?

Seriously looking for feedback here.

Still running strong. I am running it very near the limits because of the lower atmospheric pressure here at 6500’ and it hasn’t skipped a beat. I’m guesstimating I am in the 220 hp range currently.

I just got my EGT gauge installed so I’m gunna play around and see how it does.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I don’t think HP and efficiency are mutually exclusive. The bigger turbine will flow better at part throttle, hopefully leading to efficiency bumps.

Only when you floor it and use the full 220hp will you use more fuel than any other Jeep CRD would.

Aside from that, 220hp is barely breaking a sweat for this turbo. The ram Ecodiesel uses the same turbine and is 240hp stock.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I concur about the turbo, but I am concerned about the reliability limits of the engine itself. Maybe CRD05LIBERTY has some legitimate concerns about the bottom end of the engine.

I hope you are correct about the fuel economy. As far as efficiency is concerned, the higher the efficiency of the engine, the more horsepower it is capable of making. Horsepower and efficiency go hand in hand. I am simply trying to state that I want increases in horsepower & torque with fuel efficiency being a high priority, rather than simply making a lot of horsepower by dumping a lot of fuel into the engine.

To a point, but to make more HP requires more fuel which can offset economy.
HP makes the engine rev up fast, but it is torque that gets you down the road and maintains speed.
Increasing torque without having to add additional fueling will increase economy & efficiency.
You can have the HP, give me the torque any day...

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I don’t think any of the parts are forged.
The rods are a heavy duty I beam design with cap bolts. Making them more robust than what you’d find in a typical gasser engine.
This engine will never be a 800HP drag motor spinning at 8000 rpm so I don’t think all forged internals are necessary.
Now, with a bigger turbo pushing more boost, I’d be more concerned with the head bolts stretching and causing a blown head gasket.
It’s recommended that ARP studs be used even with the stock turbo.

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U.S. Army Retired

Id have a hard time believing that atleast the crank wasnt forged, but i havent been able to find any information regarding the internal parts construction. Regardless, i was at 260-270hp for 50,000k miles with no issues.
The current generation of this engine, the A428, is good up to 300hp, at that point you risk bending the rods. A company that produces a twin turbo kit for it recommends to keep the engine at 260hp. This is what i would recommend for our engines also, at this point your already 100hp above stock and the jeep really doesnt need any more power. To really go above this youll have to go to a twin turbo system or deal with ALOT of black smoke.
Its worth mentioning that this isnt a “more powerful turbo”, its CAPABLE of making more power. The turbo will only make as much boost as the computer allows, with the typical reliability mods in place (arp studs, lift pump) a GDE hot tune with 15% injectors and this turbo will get you too 240-250hp with no problem.
Im currently working on converting these into a ball bearing unit, i tried developing my own from scratch but the prices to do so were out of sight, so i resorted to just converting the stock housing. Ball bearings will almost completely reduce turbo lag and lower the demand on the oil system. The current turbo uses a 1/4” oil line for supply, with ball bearings it will be necked down to just .020”, thats a serious drop in oil demand, meaning more oil and pressure will be available to the rest of the engine, and results in keeping oil temps down. Journal bearing turbos create an insane amount of heat and foaming in the oil. On twin turbo duramax’s towing, egts are kept low due to the abundance of air, but oil temps really climb from having 2 turbos heating the oil. Also going to experiment with a 2nd generation 11 full bladed wheel. This design coupled with ball bearings should develop torque below what anyone has experienced before. With a more free-spinning core, egts and backpressure should be reduced even more, resulting in better mpg, less load on the cooling system, and an overall more efficient engine from being able to breathe easier.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

I think I’ll do
The GDE ecotune and stick with that. I just need this vehicle for efficiency.
My toy is a 14 Lancer Evo X


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But it is HP that moves you down the road. Your Jeeps engine is doing "work" to push the jeep along and over come air drag and rolling resistance. Work is force over distance. How quickly your do that work and cover the distance is power, Horsepower. If you had 0 HP you wouldn't move. If you want to drive at 60mph then you need more HP than to drive at 40mph. HP is a combination of torque and RPM. If you make a lot of torque at a lot of RPM, you make a lot of HP.

A Bugatti Veryon Supersport wouldnt do 268 MPH if it made 1106 ft-lbs at 1 rpm because it would only be making 0.2 HP. And for the very same reason, a cummins ram wouldnt tow a 10,000 lb trailer up a mountain at 65mph if it made 930 ft-lbs at 100 rpm cause its making 17 HP.

All our Jeeps do(and all diesels) is make a lot of low end HP(relative to something like the 3.7 V6) by making more low end torque. That low end HP is what lets you climb a 7% grade without downshifting or towing a trailer on flat ground in 5th gear. It gives us the sense that our 2.8L are powerful by seeming doing these things with ease. The reality is the peak HP of our engines is low and at 2000 rpm they are already making 75% of the total power they can make. That's why they are not fast in the 1/4 mile, they fall on their faces at high speed(>80mph) and they bog down when you tow a trailer up a big hill.

If you want to improve these things(acceleration, passing, towing) you need more HP. If all you wanna do is pick up groceries and drive to work then the jeep is fine at currently accessible power levels. You can get more HP by either having a tremendous amount of torque at low RPM(which will probably kill your motor) or a moderate amount of torque at high RPM. I could make 250HP at 2000 rpm, I just need 650 ft-lbs and about 45 PSI of boost to get there(good luck). I could also make 250 hp at 4000 rpm with just 325 ft-lbs and ~28 PSI of boost. That's far more reasonable goal.

No single turbo that spools like stock is ever gunna make 45 psi. DieselGuy's turbo lets us achieve a 250 hp goal by letting the engine breath better at higher RPM while still spooling like the stock turbo. The turbine can handle the extra flow and the compressor allows us to hit the boost we need to cram enough air in.

The efficiency would come from the freer flowing turbine allowing the engine to push the exhaust gas out with less effort. The beauty of this turbo is that if will drive like stock. If you simply need a new turbo because your stock one died, this will work. You dont need to run it at 250 hp to see benefits, but the option is there.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

As it should be lol.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

With regards to the 220hp, GDE apparently felt that 220 hp/400ft-lbs was safe with their turbo kit and they seem like some conservative folks when it comes to pushing the limits. I wouldnt be to worried about that.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs