Jackkep wrote:
I was never actually able to get coolant to come out of the radiator bleed valve, and the upper radiator hose gets tight and hot but does not feel like it's filled with coolant. If I pull it off while it's running a little trickles through like the bypass valve is working but doesn't seem like the thermostat is opening
I'm having a hard time understanding this part.
When I fill my empty radiator, I completely remove the plug from the top of the radiator and fill the coolant tank back on the firewall.
I fill it until water comes out of the top of the radiator and then quickly put the plug back in.
Because the coolant tank is at a higher level than the radiator, if the coolant tank is full, water will always come out of the bleed valve when open. Engine running or not.
So, either the bleed valve opening is plugged, or the coolant tank isn't full.
With the bleed valve plug completely removed, you can look into it and see the water level inside the radiator.
Regarding the thermostat...
Yes, the thermostat sucks.
Yes, the temp gauge sucks.
(sorry Papa, if a gauge doesn't have any actual REAL numbers on it, it sucks!)
The factory thermostat, if working properly, should open at about 176F. A little bit early for some tastes but it is what it is.
The factory thermostat typically fails by either being suck open, or opening too soon.
So, if your engine coolant temps never get above 176, then yes, you need a new thermostat.
Now, this running too cool problem usually isn't discovered until winter time.
In a Florida summer, creeping through slow moving, hot afternoon, Orlando traffic on Colonial or Semoran (or pretty much anywhere), with the AC on, your coolant temps should have no problem getting well above 180F. Even with a stuck open thermostat.
Been there, done that.