Hello Everyone. My name is Colten and I’ve been intrigued with these CRD libertys since the day they came out. I recently purchased a boat and now I have an excuse to buy a CRD.

After the years of on and off reading about these vehicles, it seems no matter what you buy there is a large amount of work which should be done to make and keep them reliable.

I recently found a CRD for sale with mechanical issues. If I’m tearing one apart for ARP studs, rockers, timing belts, EGR delete, why not buy one requiring work already?

120,000miles. Engine has not been dissambled. But owner states vehicle smokes on acceleration and recently an event happened where the mechanic believes a faulty injector cause the cylinder to overfill and break a rod. From all the reading I’ve been doing, I haven’t seen this issue come up.

Can anyone suggest a way I could troubleshoot this vehicle when I go to check it out?

That scenario sounds highly unlikely. The entire tip would have to come off the injector for it to dispense that much fuel in one cycle of the engine. Or both valves would have to fail closed completely (more likely). Even more likely is that an exhaust valve failed and dropped into the cylinder, causing catastrophic failure, potentially including the rod. Fortunately, #1 is easy to identify. Simply pull the injectors or glow plugs and look for fuel leaking out of one or more cylinders. Unfortunately, #2 and #3 require the intake manifold to be removed at the very least. A sprung valve spring is a sure indicator that the head of the valve has broken off and, in most cases, the engine is toast. Fortunately (again), the seller is in a bind either way. They are selling a 12 year old vehicle with what can only be assumed to be a bad motor. Depending on options and condition, you should walk away with it really cheap if you're willing to potentially swap the motor.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

I wonder how the 'mechanic' arrived at the broke rod diagnosis?
I look at it this way; a broke rod is definitely in FAVOR of the buyer!! You have all the leverage.

If this was a true 'hydraulic' issue;
Before I'd suspect the injector 'filling' the chamber, I'd figure a blown head gasket/cracked liner/cracked head allowing coolant to seep into that cylinder.. and the next attempt to start the engine resulted in a bent rod.
You'll see this on engines that tend to sit around. (if they in fact have a bad gasket, head, liner)
I've seen it many times; the owner gets tired of filling the engine with coolant, knowing there may be a problem.. Sits in the back yard for 6 months. Decides to sell it, and charges up the battery; Cranks it and <insert your choice of noises> Piston comes up, and either
1. stops the starter dead
2. 'just' makes it past tdc, but stresses the snot out of the rod. Runs for about 10 seconds, then 'boink'. clatter, clatter, screech.


See if you can rotate a full 360.... 720 would be better. If you can roll it without any tightness, tight spots, definite clunks.. and you cannot see any holes, or other forms of escape attempts of rotating components.. You probably have at least a 'rebuildable' engine.

So, what I have seen in the past 4 months...
Buy a 'good runner' Liberty for $5000-6000, that has ALL the upgrades, (some of the 'upgrades' are now 6-10 yrs old, with 100k+ miles JUST on them.. And the body and the rest of the driveline has 200K+ miles!
Or... buy a 'project' (such as yours) for say, $1500-2000, (you have the upper hand negotiating with the 'broke rod') and go balls out on a total out of frame OH.

Worst case scenario; you have $4000 in the engine, with everything basically NEW. Now you have a 6000 investment with a ZERO mile engine. And you have a body and driveline with about 120k miles..




Don't even consider a salvage yard engine. Those $2500-3500 'good runners'... are a total crap shoot. If you can't hear it run.. just walk away. I've changed my thinking on 'take outs' over the years; they are only good for the re-seller of running vehicles. They buy a non runner vehicle, throw in a 'take out'... and peddle it ASAP. I WOULDN'T let my Mother in law drive it.. let alone my family. And that is at least 2500 you could've spent on BRAND NEW PARTS on a rebuild!

If you do have to find another building block to start with, you should be able to find a rebuildable core (short block) for $300-500 Lots of these sitting in salvage yards with the head gone..

Now, I realize that everyone can't do this, or has the tools, time, space to do this. This vehicle/engine probably isn't for them in the first place. This is why new vehicles roll off the assembly line every day.. But for the person who can invest themselves, then I say 'go for it'.

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

Thanks for the input. This vehicle is listed for $1000 and I’m sure I could negotiate a little off the price. I have zero experience with diesels, but starting with nil experience in general I’ve dissambled and rebuilt just about every bolt on my old Datsun 240z in my garage. What worries me is the expense of a Diesel engine rebuild. Even with me doing the assembly on the datsun, the rebuild still cost me close for 7k (although more of a performance build). I don’t exactly want to run down that rabbit hole again. I see sleeve kits are available for these engines. Can the stock block be bored or are sleeves required.

This is a really interesting opportunity for me, and I always need more projects :p

1000 bucks eh? they are less than I hoped~
These are 'wet sleeve' design.
Here is what they look like when the sleeve (or liner) is popped out of the block;
They are almost .250 thick wall, and are (usually easy) to pop out and replace if needed. If they aren't destroyed, a hone will suffice.

There really isn't a complete 'kit' for a rebuild, but everything you'd possibly need seems to be available.. Just not as economical as a 'kit' might be.
Honestly, if time isn't a factor, and you are willing to learn, read, research.. There are a lot of posts in here that will point you in the right direction. The neat thing about building one now, is down-the-road, you'll already have a good grasp on how it all goes. Which, believe me, will come in very handy.

Even if you have to come up with a different rebuildable shortblock, then throw in some machine work, (deck surface, crank re conditioning, rod reconditioning) new head, new pistons, liners, rocker arms, gaskets, other 'small parts'.... (cams might be ok to reuse) then add in all the 'stuff' to make it live longer; head studs, new timing components, water pump, ( needed to be done anyway) You'll be in it for about 5k.
There may be very little damage done on yours, which would vastly reduce your bill, or it may be a huge boat anchor! I like planning for worse case scenarios!

Is the body, glass, interior, worthy of another dozen or so trips around the sun?

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'