2005 liberty crd UPDATE 9/2/18 Compression results

98tdi · **Joined:** Tue Jul 17, 2018 5:42 pm **Posts:** 24

Thank you everyone for chiming in and giving m possible causes for the issue!

As someone stated earlier how it would be hard to mess up the injector wiring due to the length of the connector, I leave you this!!

Ok

This is how I received the Jeep, nothing is hacked PO just removed the loom to look for possible electrical issues (that’s what he thought it was at the time)

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 27, 2018 10:21 pm

WOW! Now that is a real mess... :shock:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2018 2:31 am

At least it's out of that plastic easybake oven of a loom cover it came with...

When I got mine out, that whole thing there, all of the wiring insulation was melted into a single non-flexible multi-strand cable, and the "repairs" that were done, were completely wrong. I haven't rebuilt the whole thing yet, just the ones that were shorted.

anyway, good luck!

This is what I went with to keep everything together. Parker hydraulic hose protection spiral wrap. Works great, and allows moving air to keep the wires relatively cool.

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:59 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

At least it's out of that plastic easybake oven of a loom cover it came with...

When I got mine out, that whole thing there, all of the wiring insulation was melted into a single non-flexible multi-strand cable, and the "repairs" that were done, were completely wrong. I haven't rebuilt the whole thing yet, just the ones that were shorted.

anyway, good luck!

This is what I went with to keep everything together. Parker hydraulic hose protection spiral wrap. Works great, and allows moving air to keep the wires relatively cool.

another reason to run w/o the top engine cover, maybe a little less heat?
I imagine another X amount of years, and this area is going to be a prime source of :banghead:

and under hood fires. I can't wait. :roll:

This pic brings a tear to my one good eye.. I am soooo far away from this in my project...

I like that Parker product.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:24 pm

Another good method to clean up wire bundles is called "Wire Lacing"
used in many panels where there are large bundles of wire to deal with.
simple nylon cord is all that is needed.
once this is done, can put on outer covering of choice.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:38 pm

I wonder if my electric fan (much less air movement) will bite me in the rear in the future due to cooked wires. I removed the engine cover after seeing higher mileage CRD (with engine cover) with seriously baked wiring.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2018 3:22 pm

Mountainman wrote:

I wonder if my electric fan (much less air movement) will bite me in the rear in the future due to cooked wires. I removed the engine cover after seeing higher mileage CRD (with engine cover) with seriously baked wiring.

If you are concerned about the heat, you could always install Aluminum Metallic Insulated Covers like these.
They are relatively cheap and easy to install. They use velcro seams.
3 foot for $14 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Metalli ... B077JG6WJD

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2018 4:45 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Another good method to clean up wire bundles is called "Wire Lacing"
used in many panels where there are large bundles of wire to deal with.
simple nylon cord is all that is needed.
once this is done, can put on outer covering of choice.

before zip ties became a 'staple' around here, I'd gather up bundles with jive ol electric tape... and then go with a cheesy corrugated split-down-the middle covering.

I don't know if I used the wrong tape... but man, wherever I used it, the adhesive in the tape severely softened the insulation on the wires!!
So, I try to use zip ties as much as possible, then either reuse the original corrugated covering.. (parts store stuff is best left on their shelves).. or go with that spiral product.
One thing 'bout the spiral product, if oil or diesel gets In there, it should allow 'most' of the liquid to drain out.. (how many of you watch the fuel come out of the bleeder screw... and SAIL RIGHT INTO THAT HARNESS!!)

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2018 7:37 pm

Wow... I was saying that the connectors wouldn't reach if the harness was mostly INTACT. Your harness is completely naked! The only way you are going to know if you have the right connectors to the right injectors is to use the service manual and chase each connector back to the ECU pin block.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:54 pm

Go to page 8W-30-35 in the 2005 Jeep KJ Factory Service Manual.
Each injector has a totally different set of color coded wires for each injector.
Should be easy to sort them out!
The color codes are explained in the manual on page 8W-01-05
COLOR CODE COLOR
BL BLUE
BK BLACK
BR BROWN
DB DARK BLUE
DG DARK GREEN
GY GRAY
LB LIGHT BLUE
LG LIGHT GREEN
OR ORANGE
PK PINK
RD RED
TN TAN
VT VIOLET
WT WHITE
YL YELLOW
* WITH TRACER

98tdi · **Joined:** Tue Jul 17, 2018 5:42 pm **Posts:** 24

WWDiesel wrote:

Go to page 8W-30-35 in the 2005 Jeep KJ Factory Service Manual.
Each injector has a totally different set of color coded wires for each injector.
Should be easy to sort them out!
The color codes are explained in the manual on page 8W-01-05
COLOR CODE COLOR
BL BLUE
BK BLACK
BR BROWN
DB DARK BLUE
DG DARK GREEN
GY GRAY
LB LIGHT BLUE
LG LIGHT GREEN
OR ORANGE
PK PINK
RD RED
TN TAN
VT VIOLET
WT WHITE
YL YELLOW
* WITH TRACER

Yes the wiring is a little messy, I don’t mind a little chase!
I am putting it back together tomorrow for round 2 of fun with the beep beep Jeep!

I will run a compression test as well as hook up the noid lights to the injectors and see what the problem can be

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2018 9:47 am

98tdi wrote:

Yes the wiring is a little messy, I don’t mind a little chase!
I am putting it back together tomorrow for round 2 of fun with the beep beep Jeep!
I will run a compression test as well as hook up the noid lights to the injectors and see what the problem can be

You will love the NOID lights!
Keep us posted as to what you find... :wink:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2018 4:32 pm

rancherman wrote:

GordnadoCRD wrote:

At least it's out of that plastic easybake oven of a loom cover it came with...

When I got mine out, that whole thing there, all of the wiring insulation was melted into a single non-flexible multi-strand cable, and the "repairs" that were done, were completely wrong. I haven't rebuilt the whole thing yet, just the ones that were shorted.

anyway, good luck!

This is what I went with to keep everything together. Parker hydraulic hose protection spiral wrap. Works great, and allows moving air to keep the wires relatively cool.

another reason to run w/o the top engine cover, maybe a little less heat?
I imagine another X amount of years, and this area is going to be a prime source of :banghead:

and under hood fires. I can't wait. :roll:

This pic brings a tear to my one good eye.. I am soooo far away from this in my project...

I like that Parker product.

This is an old photo. I still use the engine cover, but have a thermal blanket separating the engine and fuel system from the electrical going over the engine. The only holes are for the injector connectors to access the inectors. Engine heat goes out below, and electronics are separated above. With the exhaust wrap and the turbo cozy keeping exhaust gas heat in the pipe all the way to the muffler, the under-hood temp is a lot lower.

rancherman · **Posted:** Wed Aug 29, 2018 5:41 pm

^^^^ added to my to-do list^^^^
I don't know if I should thank you, or cuss.. :-)r

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 30, 2018 12:59 am

This is what I'm using.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075PNXSBW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I realize it says in the description that it's "more better than other material" and I have no complaints (using it doubled)
but I'm sure if you look around you'll find similar stuff "more better" than this if you're concerned.

It says not for use on the exhaust, and I have other stuff designed for it there, (turbo exhaust cover and header pipe wrap to the muffler) but this is "sort of" functioning as a heat block between the manifold (rear) and the plastics at the rear right of the engine compartment.

Regarding the header pipe wrap from the turbo, I'm holding it in place with SS worm drive hose clamps. BEWARE if you do this, do NOT tighten them as you would a rubber hose. Just bring them snug and back them off 1/4 - 1/2 turn. The pipe swells when it heats and it's going to hold more heat than when it's bare. If you go full tight, when the pipe swells, it will only swell between the clamps and compressed inside the clamps, and when the pipe cools, it will shrink away from the clamps leaving them uselessly loose. The pipe will be bumpy and chambered like a centipede.

98tdi · **Joined:** Tue Jul 17, 2018 5:42 pm **Posts:** 24

Put it back together and got some compression numbers
1-400
2-375
3-375
4-200

Even though it’s low on #4 I am still wondering why it’s not firing on 3 cylinders instead of 2

I will add oil to that cylinder to see if it raises compression

I am hooking my noid lights to the injectors that aren’t firing to see if they get a signal to fire

I will update once again when I do that

Thanks everyone

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2018 4:06 pm

rancherman wrote:

GordnadoCRD wrote:

At least it's out of that plastic easybake oven of a loom cover it came with...
When I got mine out, that whole thing there, all of the wiring insulation was melted into a single non-flexible multi-strand cable, and the "repairs" that were done, were completely wrong. I haven't rebuilt the whole thing yet, just the ones that were shorted.
anyway, good luck!
This is what I went with to keep everything together. Parker hydraulic hose protection spiral wrap. Works great, and allows moving air to keep the wires relatively cool.

another reason to run w/o the top engine cover, maybe a little less heat?
I imagine another X amount of years, and this area is going to be a prime source of :banghead:

and under hood fires. I can't wait. :roll:

This pic brings a tear to my one good eye.. I am soooo far away from this in my project...
I like that Parker product.

Stumbled across this picture of like a wiring protector on top of the engine. Very interesting.... :shock:

Study it closely!

rancherman · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2018 7:45 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

rancherman wrote:

GordnadoCRD wrote:

At least it's out of that plastic easybake oven of a loom cover it came with...
When I got mine out, that whole thing there, all of the wiring insulation was melted into a single non-flexible multi-strand cable, and the "repairs" that were done, were completely wrong. I haven't rebuilt the whole thing yet, just the ones that were shorted.
anyway, good luck!
This is what I went with to keep everything together. Parker hydraulic hose protection spiral wrap. Works great, and allows moving air to keep the wires relatively cool.

another reason to run w/o the top engine cover, maybe a little less heat?
I imagine another X amount of years, and this area is going to be a prime source of :banghead:

and under hood fires. I can't wait. :roll:

This pic brings a tear to my one good eye.. I am soooo far away from this in my project...
I like that Parker product.

Stumbled across this picture of like a wiring protector on top of the engine. Very interesting.... :shock:

Study it closely!

.........looks like a nice way to repurpose an aluminum cookie sheet....

rancherman · **Posted:** Sun Sep 02, 2018 8:28 pm

98tdi wrote:

Put it back together and got some compression numbers
1-400
2-375
3-375
4-200

Even though it’s low on #4 I am still wondering why it’s not firing on 3 cylinders instead of 2

I will add oil to that cylinder to see if it raises compression

I am hooking my noid lights to the injectors that aren’t firing to see if they get a signal to fire

I will update once again when I do that

Thanks everyone

I read back, and I 'think' you said #2 and #4 were the 'dead' ones.. correct?
Curious, how did you arrive at this? Exhaust manifold temps?
Edit... IIRC, you said you disconnected those injectors and it didn't change anything. 'nevermind' :oops:

98tdi · **Joined:** Tue Jul 17, 2018 5:42 pm **Posts:** 24

rancherman wrote:

98tdi wrote:

Put it back together and got some compression numbers
1-400
2-375
3-375
4-200

Even though it’s low on #4 I am still wondering why it’s not firing on 3 cylinders instead of 2

I will add oil to that cylinder to see if it raises compression

I am hooking my noid lights to the injectors that aren’t firing to see if they get a signal to fire

I will update once again when I do that

Thanks everyone

I read back, and I 'think' you said #2 and #4 were the 'dead' ones.. correct?
Curious, how did you arrive at this? Exhaust manifold temps?

I found those cylinders dead by unhooking the injector plug while the engine was running.

No change in the miss with those 2 unhooked

I also squirt some oil in cylinder 4 to see if it raised compression and it did not

Now the problem lies in the head for sure
More than likely needs a valve job

2005 liberty crd UPDATE 9/2/18 Compression results

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