Once you flip that switch, it is set to your vehicle only.
It self adjusts to the specific gap between the switch mount and brake lever of your vehicle.

But if you need to wire into it, like you do if you want to install a trailer brake controller, you can turn it 30 degrees, remove it from its mount, pull off the connector and then re-install.

My instructions say, "If the switch is not adjusted properly or has been removed at all, a new switch must be installed and adjusted."
I still call BS.

This is how it works:

When I put my brake controller in I pulled that out, if course seeing that message after the fact. I put it back in and it seems to work fine, but occasionally my traction control and another light come on randomly since I did that. Restart clears them but I suspect that switch has something to do with it.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

_________________
2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

Install a new switch,have had to replace hundreds because of owners just like you think they can be re-used with no issues.

My Jeep has a wire in the driver's side kick panel for connecting the brake switch to a trailer brake controller. I thought all CRD liberty's had this?

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Gen2 Fuel Head - Magnaflow Exhaust - Ram transmission swap - In-Tank Lift Pump
Moab Wheels - 245/75/R16 LR E Cooper Discoverer AT3 Tires - OME Lift 790/90009 948/60069 - Etecno Glow Plugs - V6 Airbox
RUNNING B100
Pic of my Jeep!

I agree.
I reset one, and it worked great for about 4 months, then one night the part where the clamp band cinches onto the ribbed plunger stripped out, causing the tail lights to turn on, and ran the battery clear dead.
Not worth it. They are cheap. put a new one in and carry a spare. If you offroad with other Libbys, carry 2 spares.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

That one goes to the back for the trailer brakes, you still need to pick up the one from the brake switch.

Let's come to some common ground:
Pull off the electrical connector - nothing happens to the well being of the switch.
Use a stick to permanently apply brakes - nothing happens to the well being of the switch.

If you agree to the above then you are left with just a switch mounted in a keyed hole with its plunger in the extended position not touching anything.

Turn the plastic housing 30 degrees in the hole so the tabs line up to the keys in the hole.
Pull it off and put it back. How can this damage it?



I didn't say use it on another vehicle or try to adjust it again.

I see where you're coming from, but except to replace it, there is no point in removing it. (or reset it, which is why I tried.)

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

When I needed to wire into the brake switch connector for my trailer brakes, I couldn't get at the wires comfortably and the connector refused to pull off.
It was just easier to unmount the switch.

The pictures above are from an old switch that I saved because the DO NOT RE-INSTALL intrigued me.