New project(s):

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 12:29 am

My dad decided he wanted to pickup a CRD as a daily driver for LA. kind of funny since I had about the perfect one a little while back as a flip that we just sold anyway.

So now here we are, I was looking at a couple of options. I looked at this red one thursday night but we couldn't agree on price. My dad talked direct with him but he thought he had a guy lined up to go pay full price if we didnt want it. Surprise craigslist people are full of ****!

He and my dad worked out the price and I went down today to pickup the Jeep.

2005 KJ CRD, 153k miles. 2.5" OME lift, 265/70/16 good year duratracs on some black wheels. Very clean, I like the color, somehow missing the front skid?????? and I got it with the stock wheels with almost new Michelin tires.

Rented a uhaul tow dolly and drive out to eastern CO to pick it up:

Got to troubleshooting, not running on cyl #2, swapped injectors with MJ, still not running, swapped injectors with #1, still not firing, checked wiring continuity - good. Swapped ECUs, no change.
So it seems its fuel, lots of diesel around, but its not igniting, next up is a compression test.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 11:53 am

Nice jeep! I wonder if a bad injector burnt a hole through the piston like the 5.9 Cummins (crd's) like to do? Did a CEL lead you to #2?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 12:00 pm

Mountainman wrote:

Nice jeep! I wonder if a bad injector burnt a hole through the piston like the 5.9 Cummins (crd's) like to do? Did a CEL lead you to #2?

CEL is for #4, but the injector kill test shows #2 is the problem cylinder, Hopefully its not a piston, I would much rather it be rocker or valve related.

I also knows its not the wiring to the injector, and its not the transistor drivers in the ECU, and its not the injector as I swapped in one from the MJ and swapped #1 and #2 and #2 cylinder is still the bad cylinder.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 12:01 pm

Good looking Jeep, like the red color.
Maybe bad rockers or lifters, leaking valve, etc...? :roll:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 12:51 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

Nice jeep! I wonder if a bad injector burnt a hole through the piston like the 5.9 Cummins (crd's) like to do? Did a CEL lead you to #2?

CEL is for #4, but the injector kill test shows #2 is the problem cylinder, Hopefully its not a piston, I would much rather it be rocker or valve related.

I also knows its not the wiring to the injector, and its not the transistor drivers in the ECU, and its not the injector as I swapped in one from the MJ and swapped #1 and #2 and #2 cylinder is still the bad cylinder.

Hmm, that's one area that I really wish the CEL's were more accurate and sensitive. I know the feeling. I keep setting aside my jeeps with bottom end problems, they're stacking up. Good luck! Getting any popping sounds with intake cac hose off at idle?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 1:01 pm

Mountainman wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

Nice jeep! I wonder if a bad injector burnt a hole through the piston like the 5.9 Cummins (crd's) like to do? Did a CEL lead you to #2?

CEL is for #4, but the injector kill test shows #2 is the problem cylinder, Hopefully its not a piston, I would much rather it be rocker or valve related.

I also knows its not the wiring to the injector, and its not the transistor drivers in the ECU, and its not the injector as I swapped in one from the MJ and swapped #1 and #2 and #2 cylinder is still the bad cylinder.

Hmm, that's one area that I really wish the CEL's were more accurate and sensitive. I know the feeling. I keep setting aside my jeeps with bottom end problems, they're stacking up. Good luck! Getting any popping sounds with intake cac hose off at idle?

I pulled off the intake hose and felt the throttle body. I did not have the huge loud pops and puffs of air I have seen on previous failed rocker jeeps, but those tended to all be horribly failed rockers, maybe just one failed here? When I put my hand up to the intake I think I feel a slight backpuff of air. I need to pull the intake hose on my good CRD and feel the difference between them.

compression and leakdown test will tell me more, I am slightly torn between further diagnostics here or just tear it apart and pull the intake off to check the rockers, I would hate to do all that work and it not be a rocker issue and it be something I could have handled without tearing it down so much. However very quickly its seems like I will be to that point with nothing left to check before teardown.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 1:13 pm

I think you'll hear a light popping, but its been a while. I do know that I always find some sloppy rollers beyond 100k.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 1:50 pm

Mountainman wrote:

I think you'll hear a light popping, but its been a while. I do know that I always find some sloppy rollers beyond 100k.

No light popping I can hear, When Ive seen bad rockers in the past they were all collapsed bearings and the backfiring was pretty loud and obvious:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uMv4zLtBzM

This Jeep has 155k, and if thats 155k with EGR and too thin oil I can believe they are worn and should be replaced, in which case I went into it expecting to need a TB kit, rockers, and ARPs while I'm in there. However if there is some other problem(hole in piston) I would like to figure that out sooner.

On my daily CRD the rockers had zero wear at 155k, the only reason I needed to replace them was the water pump that failed and trashed the timing belt/rockers. But since I bought it I have had EGR disabled and have been running 15-40 oil.

Ok plenty of talk......time to get my butt in gear.

vwroad87 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 2:10 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

I think you'll hear a light popping, but its been a while. I do know that I always find some sloppy rollers beyond 100k.

No light popping I can hear, When Ive seen bad rockers in the past they were all collapsed bearings and the backfiring was pretty loud and obvious:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uMv4zLtBzM

This Jeep has 155k, and if thats 155k with EGR and too thin oil I can believe they are worn and should be replaced, in which case I went into it expecting to need a TB kit, rockers, and ARPs while I'm in there. However if there is some other problem(hole in piston) I would like to figure that out sooner.

On my daily CRD the rockers had zero wear at 155k, the only reason I needed to replace them was the water pump that failed and trashed the timing belt/rockers. But since I bought it I have had EGR disabled and have been running 15-40 oil.

Ok plenty of talk......time to get my butt in gear.

Nice Jeep, could you tell me about that westy in the background a bit. I got a 87 syncro westy, 3.3ltr svx, front, rear and center shaft decouplers. Just curious. Now I know I'm in real good company. PM is fine.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 4:11 pm

vwroad87 wrote:

Nice Jeep, could you tell me about that westy in the background a bit. I got a 87 syncro westy, 3.3ltr svx, front, rear and center shaft decouplers. Just curious. Now I know I'm in real good company. PM is fine.

Its an 87 2wd westy that was a rollover I bought at auction, its a donor to convert my 87 syncro tintop to a full westy. I have a 3L subaru I am hoping to work on swapping in this fall.

I also have a 91 tintop that I converted to a westy, I've had a 3.3 SVX in it for a number of years, and also been through a number of SVX engines, hauled off one of the bad blocks to the scrapper yesterday actually. I have so much SVX engine crap here I just want to be rid of it.

I think once I get past the learning curve on the 3L for my syncro I am going to be removing the SVX 3.3 from the 91 westy, the 3L fits better and I am getting tired of dealing with the 3.3.

vwroad87 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 5:25 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

vwroad87 wrote:

Nice Jeep, could you tell me about that westy in the background a bit. I got a 87 syncro westy, 3.3ltr svx, front, rear and center shaft decouplers. Just curious. Now I know I'm in real good company. PM is fine.

Its an 87 2wd westy that was a rollover I bought at auction, its a donor to convert my 87 syncro tintop to a full westy. I have a 3L subaru I am hoping to work on swapping in this fall.

I also have a 91 tintop that I converted to a westy, I've had a 3.3 SVX in it for a number of years, and also been through a number of SVX engines, hauled off one of the bad blocks to the scrapper yesterday actually. I have so much SVX engine crap here I just want to be rid of it.

I think once I get past the learning curve on the 3L for my syncro I am going to be removing the SVX 3.3 from the 91 westy, the 3L fits better and I am getting tired of dealing with the 3.3.

Looking forward to hearing about the 3.0 ltr conversion. Yes the 3.3 is a beast and parts are N/A. I will be looking to re-power mine in the future.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 12, 2018 11:42 pm

Pulled the intake off, looks like a really messed up set of rockers, this is what happens when you used the oil Jeep recommended(mobile 0-40) instead of a good diesel 15-40(like the engine manufacturer recommended), and have EGR active. EGR is basically the death of these things. My Jeep with 155k, same miles as this one, had ZERO rocker wear with the EGR off and 15-40 Delo diesel oil.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:23 am

That is one pricey Fluke meter you are using.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:30 am

WolverineFW wrote:

That is one pricey Fluke meter you are using.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Ya and the TSA baggage apes opened my pelican case and didn't re-close properly so the screen got cracked. $7500 meter with a cracked screen I cannot figure out a replacement for. The calibration is up in october and I don't know what to replace it with. Its a 744, which is older, and thus I cannot find a new screen for, I can buy a new 754, but I am not sure if the 754 is cost effective compared to buying multiple other meters.

I have several around for work, the 744, 787, 725ex, some pi freq generators, etc.

I like the 744 because it does everything, including HART.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:34 pm

I did my rockers at 95k as preventative maintenance after all of the "sky is falling" stories on here. The factory rockers felt just like the new ones from ID parts. I felt a little like I flushed $400 that day.

vwroad87 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:20 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

WolverineFW wrote:

That is one pricey Fluke meter you are using.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Ya and the TSA baggage apes opened my pelican case and didn't re-close properly so the screen got cracked. $7500 meter with a cracked screen I cannot figure out a replacement for. The calibration is up in october and I don't know what to replace it with. Its a 744, which is older, and thus I cannot find a new screen for, I can buy a new 754, but I am not sure if the 754 is cost effective compared to buying multiple other meters.

I have several around for work, the 744, 787, 725ex, some pi freq generators, etc.

I like the 744 because it does everything, including HART.

I service,repair all sorts of electronics....just replaced my fluke 123 screen with is older that your device.

Try https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Have-stock-Brand-New-Original-4-inch-LCD-Display-Screen-Panel-for-FLUKE-744-Documenting-Process/32691812921.html

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:49 pm

mass-hole wrote:

I did my rockers at 95k as preventative maintenance after all of the "sky is falling" stories on here. The factory rockers felt just like the new ones from ID parts. I felt a little like I flushed $400 that day.

Ya, I think it can really vary with the oil type used and how much EGR use it saw. Unfortunately its hard to check without spending so much time you feel like you need to have them ready to replace anyway.

vwroad87 wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

WolverineFW wrote:

That is one pricey Fluke meter you are using.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Ya and the TSA baggage apes opened my pelican case and didn't re-close properly so the screen got cracked. $7500 meter with a cracked screen I cannot figure out a replacement for. The calibration is up in october and I don't know what to replace it with. Its a 744, which is older, and thus I cannot find a new screen for, I can buy a new 754, but I am not sure if the 754 is cost effective compared to buying multiple other meters.

I have several around for work, the 744, 787, 725ex, some pi freq generators, etc.

I like the 744 because it does everything, including HART.

I service,repair all sorts of electronics....just replaced my fluke 123 screen with is older that your device.

Try https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Have-stock-Brand-New-Original-4-inch-LCD-Display-Screen-Panel-for-FLUKE-744-Documenting-Process/32691812921.html

Ya seen that, also says not available, and searched everything else I could find. I think I am going to pull it apart and check to see if the LCD only can be sourced.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:59 pm

Parts ordered from IDparts. Should be here Wednesday sometime.

This Jeep will get ARPs, 5V metallic glow plugs, new rockers, injector seals, timing belt kit and a cooling fan.

After that I will move on to ECU flash to delete EGR. Longterm likely a cummins lift pump and EHM or provent.

I also have a set of rock rails/sliders that would go well here. I wouldn't mind adding foglights either. Steering wheel leather is kinda worn too.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 9:05 am

I got the rockers off and head cleaned up a bit, looks like on #2 cylinder, which was the problem cylinder, there is a valve that is missing a keeper. I can see one keeper, but the keeper cap isn't sitting right and the top of the valve has worn. I need to make some sort leverage bar with a U shaped end to compress the spring so I can get the keeper out. If the valve end looks good where the keeper rings are I can replace the keeper(s) and cap with spares I have here. It the valve end looks damaged I will need to pull the head to replace the valve.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 10:54 am

Highly unusual! :shock:

Very lucky that the other keeper had not "let go" and allowed the engine to swallow that valve. :roll:

Suggestion:
This valve spring compressor works well in situations like this; I have one that I have used for years.
KDT-912 or 912DD
NAPA or Google the part no. :google:

Don't forget to run piston up to TDC on that cylinder before removing valve spring keeper.

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