WTF: I install an ARB bumper and M8 and now Im overheating

rancherman · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:04 am

mass-hole wrote:

CRD Joe wrote:

Thank you all so much for the advice and information. Of all the choices, which one would you all recommend that I go ahead and implement?

I have the after market aluminum housing for my thermometer. Im pretty sure I bought it from a Canadian guy. Do any of you know what exact model thermostat I need to buy for that housing? I cant remember what temp it came with.

Tom

A Stant Tstat for the 5.7L hemi. It would have come with the 203F/95C version but there is a 180F(# 48798) and 190F(# 48799)version as well. GDE recommends a 190F Tstat, I just asked them the other day. I put in a 180F because it gives me a little extra time before it gets over 212/100C where fueling starts to reduce.

I would make sure ur fan is working first and foremost. If not, then decide if you want the GM fan with clutch or flex fan with no clutch.

I'd then verify that air can flow through the Rad/IC/AC.. every square inch of them.
If your CRD is a multiple owner, there is always the chance someone's topped off with the wrong coolant, and you may be dealing with some 'glop' issues. Time for a system flush??

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

rancherman wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

Maybe you need a new fan clutch?

This, ^^^ along with verifying the condition of the radiator/IC/Condenser for bugs, bent fins, dirt.
My guess is if you can hear it roaring and it's still climbing temp wise, the clutch is probably 'ok'..
I'd check the cleanliness first Just looking down between the components isn't enough. Air HAS to be able to flow through. Corner to corner, 100% of the core needs to be clean. Not just the circle of the fan.

Apparently, these bumpers change the high pressure wave in front of the vehicle, and the airflow around/through the grille is 'different'. My guess is, a lot of this HP air is spilled under the vehicle with the new bumper... You're not alone; I've put aftermarket bumpers on all my Dodge cummins, which removes that air dam below the bumper. When my radiators start to block from bugs, dirt, grass seeds, oil... it heats far earlier than when all the plastic was still 'out front'..
I can only imagine what the skid plates are doing to directing air back into the engine compartment.. LOL There may be higher pressure on the BACKSIDE of the radiator than the front! Like a previous poster noted, some guys have 'ventilated' their hoods to help..

I was thinking about putting some vents at the back of the hood , do you have any input obout the result of it ??

I have a homemade skid plate that seem to reduce the flow of air like the ARB bumper seem to do.
I have a 190F thermostat with an electric fan. I have no issue with overheating cause the fan does a pretty good job but at highway speed the fan come on when climbing a grade. Wondering if some vents in the hood will make a difference ?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 4:26 pm

I did this back in December.

It was a fun project.
Hard to say if it’s really helped keep the engine cooler.
I mean, I haven’t had to tow anything or drive up any mountains.
But it has been a really really really hot summer.
Maybe a 5 degree drop in coolant temp during city driving with the AC on.

If you don’t want to cut holes in your hood, you can try:
1. Removing the seal between the seal between the hood and cowl.
2. Putting in some spacers at the rear bolt between the hood and the hinge. You will need longer hood bolts and it will mess up your hood alignment a little, but not too bad.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 4:50 pm

PZKW108 wrote:

rancherman wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

Maybe you need a new fan clutch?

This, ^^^ along with verifying the condition of the radiator/IC/Condenser for bugs, bent fins, dirt.
My guess is if you can hear it roaring and it's still climbing temp wise, the clutch is probably 'ok'..
I'd check the cleanliness first Just looking down between the components isn't enough. Air HAS to be able to flow through. Corner to corner, 100% of the core needs to be clean. Not just the circle of the fan.

Apparently, these bumpers change the high pressure wave in front of the vehicle, and the airflow around/through the grille is 'different'. My guess is, a lot of this HP air is spilled under the vehicle with the new bumper... You're not alone; I've put aftermarket bumpers on all my Dodge cummins, which removes that air dam below the bumper. When my radiators start to block from bugs, dirt, grass seeds, oil... it heats far earlier than when all the plastic was still 'out front'..
I can only imagine what the skid plates are doing to directing air back into the engine compartment.. LOL There may be higher pressure on the BACKSIDE of the radiator than the front! Like a previous poster noted, some guys have 'ventilated' their hoods to help..

I was thinking about putting some vents at the back of the hood , do you have any input obout the result of it ??

I have a homemade skid plate that seem to reduce the flow of air like the ARB bumper seem to do.
I have a 190F thermostat with an electric fan. I have no issue with overheating cause the fan does a pretty good job but at highway speed the fan come on when climbing a grade. Wondering if some vents in the hood will make a difference ?

I dont know about putting them at the rear. The problem is that the windshield creates a high pressure zone so vents at the rear of the hood may fall into this zone and do nothing or possibly even pull air in. We dont want that. We want all the air coming through the radiator and using the vents to escape.

This is exactly how the cowl induction hood on the old chevy's functioned.

If it were me, I would line up the vents so that the fronts are just at the back of the radiator shroud and run on either side of the engine cover. The mechanical fans are supposed to be 1/2 out of the shroud so that they can fling the air outward. Having the vent sitting right above the fan will allow any air getting blown upward to leave without having to travel around the motor and out the bottom of the engine bay.

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

mass-hole wrote:

I dont know about putting them at the rear. The problem is that the windshield creates a high pressure zone so vents at the rear of the hood may fall into this zone and do nothing or possibly even pull air in. We dont want that. We want all the air coming through the radiator and using the vents to escape.

This is exactly how the cowl induction hood on the old chevy's functioned.

If it were me, I would line up the vents so that the fronts are just at the back of the radiator shroud and run on either side of the engine cover. The mechanical fans are supposed to be 1/2 out of the shroud so that they can fling the air outward. Having the vent sitting right above the fan will allow any air getting blown upward to leave without having to travel around the motor and out the bottom of the engine bay.

I think the whole issue of putting vents in the hood to increase airflow in the engine bay is a good idea; it could make the difference when different bumpers and skid plates are installed and the owner is putting the engine under heavy load. The engine bay in CRDs is very crowded; venting this area and getting air flowing would be beneficial.

As to exactly where to put them; I am unsure. I think that placement of those vents is important and somehow the idea needs to be explored.

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

For those of you running a Hot Diesel Solutions Model 001 engine thermostat assembly, the following is a fairly comprehensive list of thermostat valve manufacturers of the Hemi engine valve, and the temperatures the valves are offered in...

THERMOSTAT VALVES THAT FIT THE MODEL 001:

THE H.D.S. MODEL 001 WAS DESIGNED FROM THE START TO BE EASY TO SERVICE AND TO USE A COMMON AND EASILY OBTAINABLE THERMOSTAT VALVE. THE VALVE WE CHOSE IS FROM THE CHRYSLER HEMI V-8 SERIES OF GASOLINE ENGINES; ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR V-8 ENGINES CURRENTLY MANUFACTURED TODAY. THESE VALVES WILL BE AVAILABLE FOR YEARS TO COME, AND ARE AVAILABLE IN AT LEAST 2 WARMER TEMPERATURE OPENINGS THAN WAS OFFERED IN THE POORLY MADE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT THERMOSTAT ASSEMBLY. ANY THERMOSTAT VALVE THAT FITS THE 5.7L, THE 6.1L, THE 6.2L, AND THE 6.4L HEMI V-8 ENGINES WILL FIT IN THE MODEL 001 ASSEMBLY.

THE FOLLOWING ARE 2 LISTS OF THERMOSTAT VALVES THAT WILL PROPERLY FIT INTO THE HOT DIESEL SOLUTIONS MODEL 001 ENGINE THERMOSTAT HOUSING. THESE LISTS FEATURE COMPANIES THAT MANUFACTURE THE HEMI V-8 ENGINE THERMOSTAT, OR ARE RE-BRANDED THERMOSTAT VALVES FROM OTHER MANUFACTURERS.

THE “A” LIST IS FOR O.E. REPLACEMENT VALVES THAT OPEN UP AT 203 DEGREES. THIS IS THE TEMPERATURE RATING I RECOMMEND FOR MOST APPLICATIONS OF THE LIBERTY CRD.

1) AUTOZONE PART # 41603; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
2) CST PART # 41603; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
3) DURALAST PART # 41603; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
4) FEDERATED PART # 416-203; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
5) GATES PART # 34053; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
6) MOPAR PART # 52028898AI; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
7) MOTORAD PART # 416-203; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE

O’REILLY’S PART # 41603; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
9) PARTSMASTER PART # 51603; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
10) PRONTO PART # 416-203; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE
11) STANT PART # 48792; 203 DEGREE O.E. REPLACEMENT THERMOSTAT VALVE

THE “B” LIST IS FOR VALVES THAT OPEN AT LOWER TEMPERATURES. OWNERS OF A H.D.S. MODEL 001 SHOULD LOOK TO THIS LIST FOR ANY HEAVY TOWING USE IN HOT WEATHER, WHERE THE 203 DEGREE THERMOSTAT VALVES PROVE TO RUN THE ENGINE TOO HOT, OR FOR R428 ENGINES MODIFIED FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE.

1) DURALAST PART # 41680; 180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT VALVE FOR PERFORMANCE ENGINES
2) JET PART # 10183; 180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT VALVE FOR PERFORMANCE ENGINES
3) MISHIMOTO PART # MMTS-JED-06L; 180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT VALVE FOR PERFORMANCE ENGINES
4) STANT PART # 48799; 190 DEGREE THERMOSTAT VALVE FOR PERFORMANCE ENGINES
5) STANT PART # 48798; 180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT VALVE FOR PERFORMANCE ENGINES

rancherman · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:20 pm

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

I dont know about putting them at the rear. The problem is that the windshield creates a high pressure zone so vents at the rear of the hood may fall into this zone and do nothing or possibly even pull air in. We dont want that. We want all the air coming through the radiator and using the vents to escape.

This is exactly how the cowl induction hood on the old chevy's functioned.

If it were me, I would line up the vents so that the fronts are just at the back of the radiator shroud and run on either side of the engine cover. The mechanical fans are supposed to be 1/2 out of the shroud so that they can fling the air outward. Having the vent sitting right above the fan will allow any air getting blown upward to leave without having to travel around the motor and out the bottom of the engine bay.

I think the whole issue of putting vents in the hood to increase airflow in the engine bay is a good idea; it could make the difference when different bumpers and skid plates are installed and the owner is putting the engine under heavy load. The engine bay in CRDs is very crowded; venting this area and getting air flowing would be beneficial.

As to exactly where to put them; I am unsure. I think that placement of those vents is important and somehow the idea needs to be explored.

Hey, just for giggles, would taking off the cowling seal that seals the rear of the hood let air out the rear?
Yeah, I know about the high pressure zone thing, but I think it's more pronounced at the center front of the windshield.. and along either side may be enough to allow under hood air to spill out.

One caveat, if we have a slight underhood exhaust leak, guess where it may end up! sucked into the HVAC.. Probably not a good idea.. :roll:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:29 pm

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK wrote:

I think the whole issue of putting vents in the hood to increase airflow in the engine bay is a good idea; it could make the difference when different bumpers and skid plates are installed and the owner is putting the engine under heavy load. The engine bay in CRDs is very crowded; venting this area and getting air flowing would be beneficial.

As to exactly where to put them; I am unsure. I think that placement of those vents is important and somehow the idea needs to be explored.

Another discussion about hood vents
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/hood-vents-placement-best-ventilation-1127028/%3Famp%3D1

Center of the cowl is where pressure is highest.
Opening the rear corners would be best.

Installing hood vents and determining the best locations is mostly based on the outside and inside contours of the hood.
I put mine where I did because that’s where they fit best. Pretty much centered top bottom and left right. Not quite too close to the cowl to have air pushed in at speed.

WTF: I install an ARB bumper and M8 and now Im overheating

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