Alright, I've tentatively decided to repair my transmission other than drive the Liberty off a cliff... (for now)

I attempted the solenoid pack/Fluid/Filter change out as it wasn't shifting properly out of 1st gear (high revs and late shifts), I'm guessing the pump is probably shot as it was taking a moment to engage when it was shifting into drive for a while.

Rebuild it, buy a rebuilt one, upgrade the TC?

I've never had a Torque Converter issue other than the weird bounce at 55mph when it was new, they said they fixed it but they probably just did the downgrade originally. I have the FT ECO tune by Green Diesel in it, I've never noticed the shudder others speak of, ever.

I'm going to have to have a shop do it, I can't do this in my garage/carport area, so stupid expensive.

Would you guys recommend letting a shop rebuild or buying from somewhere? Upgrade the pump? Upgrade the TC that I've never had issues with?

All thoughts and comments appreciated.

Thanks guys/gals!

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

I think the cheapest option is just to get a used transmission and swap it in, there are lots of them available from the grand Cherokees and rams. Even the 2WD will work.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

If you are planning on keeping the Libby for a long time, rebuilding with all new parts and a warranty is a good long term option.
But if you think you may be planning to sell the Libby in the near future, installing a GOOD used transmission is also a good option.
Decisions, decisions....

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I wouldn't keep the old converter, but I am fairly sure that the "more grabby" converters increase the odds and or magnitude of shudder due to more load. But I'm sure I'll get flamed if that's wrong. Bigger tires definitely make shudder worse, so I'd take that into consideration. After having 3 transmissions in a row that shudder (2 with new style pumps, but they were pre 2013 upgrades apparently) so I won't install a transmission without ALL of the pump side upgrades. the valve body and solenoid pack can be upgraded later without another R&R.
Just my painful experience, I'm about to go for round 3!

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

My 2 cents on any 'good used' components; Especially regarding engines or transmissions. Cheapest way? ABSOLUTELY!!!

IF, IF, IF!!!

Unless you can HEAR it run, FEEL how it shifts, sounds, smokes, smells, temps, pressures... Any 'take out' component is a big question mark until you 'hit the key'...

Oh, sure, you'll have the typical 30 day 'guarantee'... starting the day you walk out the office with the transmission under your arm.. And the race begins!! Turn the key with 2 weeks to spare, and 'zip'. Now you have to spend more time and money to take it back out, fight the seller; recyclers seem to have loopholes up the ying yang..... and start the process all over again.

Most of the time, a low mile take-out trans out of a 'wreck'.... SHOULD be ok as far as wear and tear.. but there is still the possibility of case distortion, cracks or breaks resulting from the impact.
A take-out from a non wreck, say something that the owner just gave up on... may have engine and or trans issues he deemed more expensive to fix than what the vehicle is worth.. But is quite eager to sell it to someone else..
Floods, Fire... potential time bombs..
When they are sitting on a shelf, or under the bench... it's hard to tell them apart!

I look at it this way; you are going to spend the same amount for the removal and install of a transmission, whether it's a new one, or a used one. The last thing you want is to duplicate this cost in a couple weeks, months, or even a year to do it again.

Just things to consider, and be aware of!!

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

Unless you are upgrading the tune, and you have had no issues with shudder, no need to spend the extra $600-$800 for an upgraded TC.

Whether you choose to have yours rebuilt, or have a remanufactured one installed, definitely make sure it has the upgraded pump, valve, and spring.

I chose to replace my original trans with a used 67k mile one from a wrecked 2010 Ram 1500 hemi. It works, and doesn't have the OD clutch problem my original one did, but has it's own issues, so I'm back to rebuilding my original one, and another future trans swap.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770