Replacing my engine; what would you do?

BlueCRDinAZ · **Joined:** Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:30 am **Posts:** 11

So yeah, the short of it is had an exhaust valve snap while on the freeway in July; and got a used engine from "somewhere" in WI as a replacement. My plan is to make this replacement as bulletproof as possible with all the usual mods: Tstat, weeks, 2micron filter, provent, lift pump, straight pipe, ARPs, silicone charge pipes, GM fan and clutch. Did I miss anything beside the tranny?

The replacement engine was listed as having 91k miles, but it seems a little higher than that to me because it obviously had the timing belt done already- it has reference marks on the pulleys already and the belt looks well used. So, my question is this: given the current history of exhaust valve failures, would you replace the exhaust valves before installing the engine or would you leave them and carry on?

Also, I wonder how many parts are truely interchangeable with GM parts? Things like the rockers, valves, piston heads, rods....anybody know for sure?

So much to do..

connolcj · **Posted:** Wed Sep 05, 2018 1:49 pm

Good luck to you. I'm in the same boat. I have my "new" engine torn down and have so far put the block in my Jeep. I'm having issues getting two injectors out of the valve cover and head so its sitting on a bench waiting for a injector tool to be made by my machine shop at work. I'm planning on new head gasket with studs, Weeks kit, and all new rockers as well. I haven't had a chance to look over my head yet but that will dictate what I do with it before re-installation.

rancherman · **Posted:** Wed Sep 05, 2018 2:31 pm

Well, you are doing all of this because of a broke valve.. don't take the chance on a 'unknown'!

Replacement valves aren't too costly. I'd sure do the exhausts.
You'll surely take the head in for pressure test, cracks, flatness. it won't cost too much more to have new valves installed.

91k miles; Actual, or since last timing belt change?? (this is sarcasm, but take it with a grain of salt) I got into MY 91k engine thinking; 'geez, should be like brand new lower end'.. which it is, but I'm dealing with some block issues.. I'm glad I went deep and caught it early.

You'll never be this 'deep' and as easy to work on it as you are now with the engine out of the vehicle. Best case? costs you a couple of gaskets. Worst case? you find something now, and fix it. Costs run up another 1000-1500, and you avoid a break down along the road in BFE..
I intended to 'only' fix the top end of mine, but as I went deeper, more and more issues came to light. They weren't an immediate problem, but it was headed towards one.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Sep 05, 2018 3:19 pm

X2 on replacing all the exhaust valves!
Cheap insurance to prevent a recurrence of what you have already experienced once.... :5SHOTS:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Sep 06, 2018 3:33 am

BlueCRDinAZ wrote:

So yeah, the short of it is had an exhaust valve snap while on the freeway in July; and got a used engine from "somewhere" in WI as a replacement. My plan is to make this replacement as bulletproof as possible with all the usual mods: Tstat, weeks, 2micron filter, provent, lift pump, straight pipe, ARPs, silicone charge pipes, GM fan and clutch. Did I miss anything beside the tranny?

The replacement engine was listed as having 91k miles, but it seems a little higher than that to me because it obviously had the timing belt done already- it has reference marks on the pulleys already and the belt looks well used. So, my question is this: given the current history of exhaust valve failures, would you replace the exhaust valves before installing the engine or would you leave them and carry on?

Also, I wonder how many parts are truely interchangeable with GM parts? Things like the rockers, valves, piston heads, rods....anybody know for sure?

So much to do..

something to consider... If one of your engines has a used OEM Garrett turbo, send it off to Diesel_guy86 for rebuild and upgrade.

musiclady420 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 03, 2018 1:42 am **Posts:** 21

Get a Cummins. Lol. Mine doesn't run either atm.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Crash227 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 09, 2018 2:03 pm

My 2006 Liberty CRD had an exhaust valve failure at 160k miles on my second engine. Chrysler gave me a new engine for free at 40k miles. 210k miles and my Jeep is in great shape, but I’m reluctant to buy a used motor for $4,000.00 with 80k miles even though the sellers claim 3 and 5 year warranties.

The Cummins repower option is attractive (timing chain!) but at a total cost of $12k seems out of reach. Odd that nobody seems to sell remanufactured CRD engines, so I am looking into New VM Motori Motors. Does anyone know if any of the newer and improved VM Motori 2.8 CRDs can be modified to work in my 2006?

The body and underbody of my Jeep seems good for another decade of Michigan winters!

Grotsoldaat · **Posted:** Sun Sep 09, 2018 4:01 pm

Crash227 wrote:

Odd that nobody seems to sell remanufactured CRD engines, so I am looking into New VM Motori Motors. Does anyone know if any of the newer and improved VM Motori 2.8 CRDs can be modified to work in my 2006?

I have a strong feeling it is possible and perhaps MORRIS could answer that question.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2018 12:43 pm

BluecrdinAZ
I would definitely put new exhaust valves in.
I may also be interested in your old engine if lower end for sure is good and price is right

Also if you get the two sets of ten arp studs instead of the 18 stud set I would buy the two extra ones for more than difference in the price you pay

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2018 1:52 pm

TKB4 wrote:

BluecrdinAZ
I would definitely put new exhaust valves in.
I may also be interested in your old engine if lower end for sure is good and price is right
Also if you get the two sets of ten arp studs instead of the 18 stud set I would buy the two extra ones for more than difference in the price you pay

X2 on replacing the exhaust valves.

IDParts now sells a ARP Head Stud Kit (Liberty CRD) that contains just the required 18 studs.
https://www.idparts.com/arp-head-stud-k ... -4044.html

also, I have a spare CRD engine for sale.(needs rockers) If interested, PM me.

BlueCRDinAZ · **Joined:** Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:30 am **Posts:** 11

Well, because I have nothing better to do with my life I have gone head first into this adventure :roll:

. I already had the ARPs in my garage before the valve broke, but that would not have made a difference anyhow. My local Chevy dealer was kind enough to order in an exhaust valve for the Duramax 2.8 and the valve was identical with the exception of the keeper slots, the GM slots sit a few millimeters lower than the VMs. I don't know what that difference would make beside the spring having more tension on the valve at full extension. Anyhow, I opted to use VM valves and they are on their way along with a set of valve seals. As soon as that box arrives I will take the head and manifold in for an inspection and refreshing. Then if all is good to go a new head gasket is going in as well. In the meantime the lift pump and filter are waiting for install as well.

TBC...

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:53 am

BlueCRDinAZ wrote:

My local Chevy dealer was kind enough to order in an exhaust valve for the Duramax 2.8 and the valve was identical with the exception of the keeper slots, the GM slots sit a few millimeters lower than the VMs. I don't know what that difference would make beside the spring having more tension on the valve at full extension.

You beat me to the punch!
That was my plan for rebuilding my spare head (original). I suspect the difference you noticed could be offset by using the Duramax springs, keepers, and locks. I won't know for sure until I get a set installed and compare installed height, spring tension and spring clearance at lift. (no binding). I just haven't gotten around to that yet.

Although they look mostly alike and are the same head size, it's likely they are an improved alloy. How does the price compare? That's another thing I was hoping to compare, since some duramax parts will work interchangeably, and are much more reasonably priced.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:23 am

You will need to do something with your turbo. I just rebuilt one that had a valve failure and the vanes and housing were plastered with melted aluminum. So bad so that the vanes were sticking and causing all sorts of issues for the owner. I built him an upgraded turbo and has been loving it ever since.

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 9:39 am

GordnadoCRD wrote:

BlueCRDinAZ wrote:

My local Chevy dealer was kind enough to order in an exhaust valve for the Duramax 2.8 and the valve was identical with the exception of the keeper slots, the GM slots sit a few millimeters lower than the VMs. I don't know what that difference would make beside the spring having more tension on the valve at full extension.

You beat me to the punch!
That was my plan for rebuilding my spare head (original). I suspect the difference you noticed could be offset by using the Duramax springs, keepers, and locks. I won't know for sure until I get a set installed and compare installed height, spring tension and spring clearance at lift. (no binding). I just haven't gotten around to that yet.

Although they look mostly alike and are the same head size, it's likely they are an improved alloy. How does the price compare? That's another thing I was hoping to compare, since some duramax parts will work interchangeably, and are much more reasonably priced.

Another thing to add to the 'overall' spring tension is total installed height. You mentioned keepers and locks, but need to also figure in any difference of the jeep head and duramax head's machined pocket where the spring sits. Could be different there. Also, what does the spring sit on; Just a shim, or some other sort of end cap to keep it from chewing into the aluminum...and how thick each variation is.

BlueCRDinAZ; Lower keeper grooves has more tension at all positions, not just when extended.
It wouldn't be the first time a mfg. changed the wire specs on valve springs in a 12 year span.. maybe it's all factored in! Chevy should've done their research/history on this engine, and noticed a 'problem' with the valves. And not to replicate OUR issues of broke exhausts had VM make design changes.. VM may have beaten them to the punch too.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 9:44 am

when I bought valves recently from VM Specialists cost was 64 British sterling per set of exhaust or intake valves both the same .I had other things in my order so I don't know what shipping would be but it was about $120 for a Head.

k9adv · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 10:20 am

i am very interested in what is found about the potential use of the Chevy valves.

And what was the cost of the single valve?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 11:08 am

GordnadoCRD wrote:

BlueCRDinAZ wrote:

My local Chevy dealer was kind enough to order in an exhaust valve for the Duramax 2.8 and the valve was identical with the exception of the keeper slots, the GM slots sit a few millimeters lower than the VMs. I don't know what that difference would make beside the spring having more tension on the valve at full extension.

You beat me to the punch!
That was my plan for rebuilding my spare head (original). I suspect the difference you noticed could be offset by using the Duramax springs, keepers, and locks. I won't know for sure until I get a set installed and compare installed height, spring tension and spring clearance at lift. (no binding). I just haven't gotten around to that yet.
Although they look mostly alike and are the same head size, it's likely they are an improved alloy. How does the price compare? That's another thing I was hoping to compare, since some duramax parts will work interchangeably, and are much more reasonably priced.

The GM keeper slots that are a few millimeters lower than the VM OEM valves may be offset and compensated for in the GM spring keeper design itself. Need to look closely at GM keepers.
Or as Gordon touched on, the valve spring may be of a different design to compensate for the keeper change?
What is important is the overall assembled length relationship of the valve to the head and to make sure that the valve spring is not being fully compressed or collapsed to the point of binding the lifter or rocker when at peak cam lobe lift. :juggle:

BlueCRDinAZ · **Joined:** Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:30 am **Posts:** 11

You all make valid points regarding the valve interchange, and it reinforces my decision to stay stock VM. But cost was $7.50 for the GMs. I only looked at the valve though, I did not look at GM springs or keepers, etc. I think it is very wise for me to stay stock in this instance.

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 7:56 pm

There has been some posts about the replacement valves being a better quality. Can't say if this is fact or speculation.. or just wishful thinking.

Crash227 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 9:28 pm

Grotsoldaat wrote:

Crash227 wrote:

Odd that nobody seems to sell remanufactured CRD engines, so I am looking into New VM Motori Motors. Does anyone know if any of the newer and improved VM Motori 2.8 CRDs can be modified to work in my 2006?

I have a strong feeling it is possible and perhaps MORRIS could answer that question.

Thanks for the suggestion! I emailed Morris with my question. I’m thinking a 2010 or newer 2.8L VM / FCA / GM or whatever works will be far better than my 2006 VM CRD.

Replacing my engine; what would you do?

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