I need to replace the CV axles on my 06 Liberty and I am really confused by the difference in prices. Any recommendation on a source to buy from without violating the guide lines of our forum, Bruce

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2006 CRD Liberty
2.5 in. Frankenlift
Hankook 245/70/16

Just be real careful and be sure whatever you purchase, that it is for a 2.8 CRD or 02-05 4 cyl. gas Liberty.
V6 gas Liberty's use different length CV axles L&R and they are not compatible with 05 & 06 CRDs.

Sasquatch, Rock Auto, IDParts, NAPA, Autozone, etc...all sale the axles.

Front Wheel Differential drive axles (OEM PN's)
(2 required L&R)
Half shaft (intermediate shaft), right side - 5066057AB
Axle shaft assembly left - 52111781AB (includes CV joints & boots)
Axle shaft assembly right - 52111780AB (includes CV joints & boots)

NAPA Axles (reman)
Left - NMD958483 CV Driveshaft Compressed Length 23 3/4 in.
Right - NMD958484 CV Driveshaft Compressed Length 25 1/16 in.

Autozone PN's:
Front - Driver side: 10168N
Front - Passenger side: 10169N

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Obtaining complete replacement CV axles (front left and right) can be a problem as the CRD ones are NOT the same length as the gasser ones. IIRC in the past some have been able to get the right part from NAPA. However your best alternative might be to rebuild what you have as the kits are under $50 per side. I don't know if idParts carries the kit but sasquatchparts.com does although the transfer case side on is on backorder.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Yes looking to either rebuild or have JVC Axles of Denver rebuild it for me as my time is rather limited these days.

Out of curiosity what are other signs of bad CVs other than torn boots? I ask as I’m getting an occasional noise that sounds like either metal-to-metal brakes when stopping or backing which it’s not as I checked for this last weekend or like a marbles grinding sound. I believe that it is coming from the inner drivers side CV joint.

So do CVs get to the point where the bearings/metal balls inside of the CV start grinding?

Usually, bad CV axle joints are most noticeable when turning. Especially sharp turns.
What you describe sounds like a bad bearing.
Could be a front hub bearing or rear axle bearing.

Or could be a bad CV joint on the front driveshaft. But to me, that sounds more like jingling keys. Not really a grinding sound.

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U.S. Army Retired

Worn or very dry CV joints can also make a "popping" sound especially when turning.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Thanks for the info guys. The noise seems to have stopped for now. Front hubs were replaced ~30k miles ago with Timken hubs so they should e good. I’m wondering if maybe it’s defective brake pads that are slurging little chunks of pad material as I did notice when I had the brakes apart that there was a small section of the inboard pad that had a very small chunk of material missing in the center of the pad.