Snap! SMOKE! Blown Turbo?

jksuperstar · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:03 am

2006 Sport, 165000, Mostly stock except for GDE Tune & Lift pump.

I'm pulling away from a stop light and hear a Snap! (not too loud or jarring, much like a twig breaking) and Smoke starts pouring out the back as I'm stuck doing no more than 10mph.

I pulled into the nearest parking lot 200 yards away, and did a quick 10 second once over in the engine compartment before shutting it off. No squeaking or rattling, no fluids on the ground, no coolant in the oil, and no oil in the coolant. I tried to start it back up, but it sputtered and died. 20 minutes later, with a second set of ears, I tried again, and it fired up with ease and sounded fine, though white smoke trickled out the back. Didn't drive it. The oil was far below min (even though I topped it off with 1/4 liter a month ago (~5k since last change), and hadn't had any oil disappear or leak to speak of. Ended up towing it home.

I'm guessing the Turbo is shot, not just a hose. Any other things to check? How can I check the turbo?

If it is the Turbo, I don't think I have time to replace it-- any good shops in the Denver area (I'm in Wheat Ridge), or someone who has done this at home (and wants to do it again?). I've seen recent posts that a shop is 2-3K. ID Parts has replacements for $1120. Not super psyched to pour more money into this vehicle, but will see where this goes.

The timing of this sucks, because I was going to take the kids out camping in our "new" (1995) pop-up camper this weekend, and the other car (Subaru) can't pull any thing beyond a bike rack. So aside from a homedepot truck, any other ideas for renting a vehicle capable of towing 1200lbs?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 2:15 am

Could be a turbo, or just a popped hose.

I do work on these, I've replaced turbos, but I am in fort collins, might too far to transport to me to work on.

Pull off the turbo outlet hose and look for massive amounts of oil.

pull off the turbo inlet hose (accordion tube from airbox) and check the shaft play and look for oil.

I also have replaced with stigan turbo off of amazon, it seemed fine and seemed to work fine.

jksuperstar · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:23 am

Thanks for the Stigan pointer! One of the reviews suggests the wastegate control is off, but that doesn't seem to be your experience with this part, or did you need to make any adjustments to vacuum/plunger depth?

And thanks for the tips on checking the Turbo. I'm heading out to take a look right now.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:29 am

If you remove the outlet hose and let the engine idle there should be a pretty huge amount of air blowing out of the turbo. It is spinning and even creating a little bit of boost just at idle.

jksuperstar · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:34 pm

the outlet hose to the CAC doesn't have any issues (even though I think it's original), just some "small" amounts of oil that I can touch with my finger, but not enough to run out of the hose. The CAC inlet didn't have any oil pooled up either.

When I start it up with the outlet hose to the CAC disconnected, I don't feel any air being pushed out by the turbo as you suggest.

The white smoke still trickles out at idle, and turns into plumes when I rev even slightly.

After shutdown, there is definitely some grinding as the turbo spins back down.

I didn't get down into the inlet hose to see the turbo and check for wobble yet, but I'm 95% convinced that's the problem at this point, especially after hearing the grinding.

Do these turbo's fail in way to spew oil into the exhaust? Sounds like it, since I've read some posts that suggest some even poured gas down the exhaust to speed cleaning it out.

jksuperstar · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:37 pm

So, back to looking for a mechanic in Denver, preferably on the west end of town.

There was a list of mechanics by state I came across here once before, but I'm having a hard time finding in search now, if someone has a pointer...

Thanks again Sir Sam & you mass-hole, and this forum. (I spent a decade in MA, great name

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 1:22 pm

Yes I intend to YELL. STOP CRANKING IT UP UNTIL YOU PULL THE AIRBOX TO TURBO HOSE AND CHECK THE TURBO. Doing so risks losing all the engine oil and blowing up the bottom end.

To get it from your place to a mechanic have it towed or flat bedded. Do NOT try to drive it even so far as to prep for a tow or get it on a flat bed.

jksuperstar · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 1:48 pm

Thanks for the safety call (seriously)...I'm certainly keeping an eye on the oil level and have run it for only a few seconds twice now, without load.

jksuperstar · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 6:51 pm

As I call mechanics (and get lots of "oh no, we won't touch *that*", I also hear that the dealership says the turbo was changed, and requires a new exhaust manifold now? They quote $2700 in parts.

What is this? Any good reason that Id want to spend an extra $1700-2200 for this new package, or is this BS?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 7:21 pm

jksuperstar wrote:

Thanks for the Stigan pointer! One of the reviews suggests the wastegate control is off, but that doesn't seem to be your experience with this part, or did you need to make any adjustments to vacuum/plunger depth?

And thanks for the tips on checking the Turbo. I'm heading out to take a look right now.

The stigan did have a stuck actuator when I first got it, it wouldn't boost properly, I took my hand vacuum pump to watch the movement and got nothing, so I kept pumping more thinking it needed more vacuum to move then sudden it unstuck and moved, then actuated like it should. I suppose it was just sticky from being new and not being moved before.

jksuperstar wrote:

As I call mechanics (and get lots of "oh no, we won't touch *that*", I also hear that the dealership says the turbo was changed, and requires a new exhaust manifold now? They quote $2700 in parts.

What is this? Any good reason that Id want to spend an extra $1700-2200 for this new package, or is this BS?

Whats his name.....coloradoyote.....or something is in denver and will work on them. I'm in Fort Collins so I might be too far for you. Do you have a garage or driveway where you live where you can work on it?

The Jeep I replaced the turbo on was quoted like $7k to replace, they wanted to replace the exhaust manifold, intercooler, boost hoses, (turbo duh), and maybe something else.

If you dump oil into the intercooler you can rinse it out by removing from the vehicle and rinsing with diesel or gasoline.

The exhaust manifold shouldn't need to be replaced unless something bad happens like a bolt breaking off in it, but I would not expect that with a colorado car(as in not something from the rust belt).

Really you just need a new turbo, a crush washer x2 for the oil supply banjo bolt, and perhaps a return oil line(I did not replace it).

Adding a couple of small studs instead of bolts help reinstall the return oil line, I got some from ace.

rancherman · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 7:58 pm

jksuperstar wrote:

Do these turbo's fail in way to spew oil into the exhaust? Sounds like it, since I've read some posts that suggest some even poured gas down the exhaust to speed cleaning it out.

Yes. Seals will fail either side. Usually from heat degradation, or the bearing getting loose enough that the run-out and wobbling shaft chews up the seal.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:14 pm

jksuperstar wrote:

As I call mechanics (and get lots of "oh no, we won't touch *that*", I also hear that the dealership says the turbo was changed, and requires a new exhaust manifold now? They quote $2700 in parts.

What is this? Any good reason that Id want to spend an extra $1700-2200 for this new package, or is this BS?

If the turbo was changed I am pretty sure that is news to everyone here. I’ve never heard that.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:05 pm

mass-hole wrote:

jksuperstar wrote:

As I call mechanics (and get lots of "oh no, we won't touch *that*", I also hear that the dealership says the turbo was changed, and requires a new exhaust manifold now? They quote $2700 in parts.

What is this? Any good reason that Id want to spend an extra $1700-2200 for this new package, or is this BS?

If the turbo was changed I am pretty sure that is news to everyone here. I’ve never heard that.

I think they are quoting an exhaust manifold as a way to up the price for the repair, they did the same on the CRD I replaced the turbo on, same with quoting a new intercooler, its just parts that might need to be replaced so they quote it anyway up front.

musiclady420 · **Joined:** Mon Sep 03, 2018 1:42 am **Posts:** 21

That us what our jeep did right before we found out we broke out rockers.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 13, 2018 12:33 am

I would say total BS! The only reason to replace an exhaust manifold is if it is cracked or broken in some way.
Unless the turbo exploded, which is never heard of in these vehicles and highly unlikely that a new manifold is called for.
Even if some of the mounting studs for the turbo break off, then can be drilled out, Helicoils installed, or retapped and new studs installed.
This is the first most of us on LOST have ever heard of someone stating that.... :shock:

I believe it is a bait trick to get more money for parts and for labor.
Remember, most service writers nowadays work on commission, so the more they can talk you into the more money in their pockets. :furious:

They get a commission on the extra jobs sold and on the parts used.

jksuperstar · **Posted:** Thu Sep 13, 2018 11:43 am

Not that I didn't already hate the dealership, but I'm completely convinced to go 3rd party now.

What happened with the bad rockers? Engine idle fine without clanking? Did that lead to your turbo audibly grinding to a halt after running? Or just causing loss of power and smoke?

rancherman · **Posted:** Thu Sep 13, 2018 11:53 am

WWDiesel wrote:

I would say total BS! The only reason to replace an exhaust manifold is if it is cracked or broken in some way.
Unless the turbo exploded, which is never heard of in these vehicles and highly unlikely that a new manifold is called for.
Even if some of the mounting studs for the turbo break off, then can be drilled out, Helicoils installed, or retapped and new studs installed.
This is the first most of us on LOST have ever heard of someone stating that.... :shock:

I believe it is a bait trick to get more money for parts and for labor.
Remember, most service writers nowadays work on commission, so the more they can talk you into the more money in their pockets. :furious:

They get a commission on the extra jobs sold and on the parts used.

They (dealership) might 'lose' money on the job; Heaven Forbid they have to spend a couple extra hours to separate a fused together manifold and turbo! Easier to just get all brand new parts, and charge it forward to the owner :roll:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:18 pm

Most service writers may or may not work on commission but even worse they are rarely if ever mechanics and in my experience totally incapable of accurately relaying information provided to the actual mechanics. I've even gone so far as to take the ticket away from the service writer, back in the day before they keyed the ticket into a computer, and make my own notes on it. After the computer tickets started I was fortunate enough to know most of the parts guy so I could relay information thru them.

On point. The turbo is held to the exhaust manifold by 4 studs and 4 "pinch" nuts. The pinch nuts have a nasty habit of holding too tight to the studs so the stud may snap off just below the nut or worse right at the manifold especially since the OEM studs are softish. When removing the turbo best soak the nuts/studs in penetrating lube for 24 hrs before attempting removal and I'd recommend dropping by a local parts store and getting new grade 5+ studs. IMHO the pinch nuts are not needed just use good nuts and lock washers instead along with good new studs.

jksuperstar · **Posted:** Thu Sep 13, 2018 2:13 pm

https://youtu.be/jLSeMaYQlqQ

I grabbed a video yesterday while I ran it for a minute. Unfortunately I stopped recording as I shut off the engine, missing the grinding sound of the turbo as it slowed down.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Sep 13, 2018 4:01 pm

I'll say it one last d@mn time and then shut up. Take the airbox to turbo hose off and inspect the turbo impeller.

Snap! SMOKE! Blown Turbo?

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