I bought another one from idparts.com and had it fixed in 2 days. Let's see if it lasts until I do the timing belt. Hopefully the new brass water pump doesn't fail.

How exactly did it fail?

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I had a graf water pump fail where the brass impeller spun on the shaft, no pumping action.

No idea how the OPs one failed though.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Great. That is what I have waiting in my box o' parts..

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

Meh, I've installed tons and only had one fail.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Likewise. I've installed close to 80 of them now, and not had any fail. They are FAR superior to the factory plastic.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I've seen nothing that leads me to think they are superior. I would say its about the same level of quality.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Water pumps are pretty simple. A housing; a shaft; bearing(s); an impeller on the shaft; and some sort of seal(s) to keep coolant inside. Absent a factory defect the housing cannot fail and the shaft won't usually snap. However bearing(s) can fail; seal(s) can fail; or the impeller can fail. Impeller can come loose on the shaft (doesn't matter if the impeller is plastic or metal) or wear out. Plastic wears faster than metal but the only place I've personally see this matter is on boat motors where grit can get into the cooling system from the water intake which is not an issue on a "car" engine.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Tons of play in the propeller and probably the seal that kept the coolant in failed.

Or impeller whatever you call it.