06 CRD won't start

crd260 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:28 pm **Posts:** 103

06' CRD

Drove to a strip mall and parked, went back, would turn over but not fire.

Fuel primer pump was soft.

opened the bleeder screw, about 8-10 "pumps" worth of air came out

closed the bleeder screw, pumped it 2-3 more times until it was firm

Hit the key, and it fired right up first try.

However, it only idled for about 3-5 minutes, then abruptly died.

I tried several times to re-bleed the fuel head and re-start the engine, but was unable to. Now I'm back home to grab wrenches to crack the #4 injector hardline and see if that will help at all.

Any suggestions? am I on the right track? am I missing anything? I'm also going to bring a code reader, what codes can I expect? should there be a low fuel pressure code associated with a big air bubble in the fuel head? what about the crank angle sensor? unlikely because it started then died again on me?

Update... went back and it fired right up

pending code: P0725

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:14 pm

Might just be the crank sensor.
Happened to me a couple months ago.

Also, installing some sort of lift pump will fix the air in fuel problem.

crd260 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:28 pm **Posts:** 103

After letting it sit, it fired right up.

been idling for about an hour now, no problems.

The code I got made sense because it died while idling.

if the problem comes back, I will replace the crank angle sensor, for for now, I'm going to chalk it up to air in the system, and the high pressure pump getting air-locked.

If it was the crank angle sensor, I would expect to see a crank angle sensor related code, however, I did not.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 7:25 pm

If you are near or above 100k miles, put a Crankshaft Position Sensor in your budget now. Once the thermal breakdown starts, it won't fix it's self. Judging from all the past posts on this subject, that's about when the problems start. Mine was around 145k. Symptoms vary, sometimes there is a DTC code, sometimes not. Mine had no code.

Figure on a lift pump next. Dollars aren't huge, but it'll probably take you a day if you're doing it at home. An experienced shop could do it in probably 3 hours, if nothing has been done to modify the stock tank area /attachments / etc.

rancherman · **Posted:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:32 pm

Special award for 2 issues at the same time??

It's bad enough sometimes when there is only 1 thing to diagnose!

Hey, when at the strip mall, was the jeep still pretty warm when it didn't start the first time? Seems most CPS issues are when they are up-to-temp... and mysteriously work when cool..

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:36 pm

Could be crank position sensor BUT more importantly you need to read the NOOB guide on how to correctly bleed the fuel filter head. "opened the bleeder screw, about 8-10 "pumps" worth of air came out - closed the bleeder screw, pumped it 2-3 more times until it was firm" is NOT and never has been the correct procedure any more than than it would be the correct procedure to bleed brakes. Pump primer until firm; crack bleeder and let flow (ideally thru a bit of vinyl tube to a catch can) until it stops; close bleeder (no Godzilla) - repeat until no more air comes out.

PS crank sensor failure is NOT a CRD thing rather it's a "modern" vehicle thing that happens to all sorts of vehicles without setting a CEL.

pulsenpal · **Joined:** Sun Aug 05, 2018 9:53 am **Posts:** 42

your fuel feed system is sucking air---somewhere between fuel tank and
bosch pump

had similar issue in ford diesel pickup---the crimp rolled seal on fuel filter had
unseeable air leak

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 10:32 pm

These vehicles are notorious for the CPS (crank position sensor) going bad and either putting you on the side of the road during the warm up cycle or not allowing the engine to start once it has warmed up.
And the bad thing, more times than not they never trip or set any DTC (diagnostic trouble codes aka. check engine light)
They work ok when cold, but as they heat up they go haywire so when the ECM does not receive an RPM signal and cannot tell what the engine RPM's are, it simply shuts the engine down and / or disables it from starting.

As to the air in your fuel issue, the best 100% cure is to install an in-tank fuel pump like many on this forum have done. Adding an in-tank fuel pump along with totally disabling the EGR system are the two top and most recommended modifications you can make to this vehicle.
Just ask if you need help with either one....

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Sep 30, 2018 10:33 am

For what it's worth crank position sensors are used on all gasser and diesel vehicles with a distributorless ignition system and have been since at least 1995. Failure of a CPS on any vehicle that has one will leave you parked until it is fixed or if you are lucky until the sensor cools down enough to work for a while. In some vehicles a CPS failure will trigger a visible CEL and on others it won't. On the 05/06 CRD it won't trigger a visible CEL but it will set 1 or 2 codes as it did when my son's 06 experienced a wonky CPS. As with any electronic sensor it works until it no longer works. Failure can be vibration; old age; or heat. In the CRD heat is the most likely cause of failure as the CPS is near the exhaust at the back of the block behind a heat shield.

Relatively inexpensive and easy/cheap to replace (IIRC the local shop that did my son's only charged ca. $100 for under an hours labor but then we provided the part and instructions on how to access/replace the part - helpful since they were not CRD mechanics). There are a number of failure modes including 1) hot engine no start but wait a bit and it starts and 2) my son's engine simply switched off when he slowed down from highway speed (like on an off ramp) but restarted after 15 minutes and ran fine until next slow down).

As failure is unpredictable I'd be inclined to make this a service item when you do a timing belt job. If so and if the old CPS is working fine then toss the old one into your on board tool kit just in case.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Sep 30, 2018 1:29 pm

Some CPS failures will actually trip a visible DTC as there have been a few reported on LOST over the years, but they are rare.
When my CPS starting going bad several years ago, on the third time it did a quick hiccup during the warm up cycle while driving down the road, it actually did set a visible DTC (check engine light) but I don't remember which one it was. :banghead:

I replaced it right afterwards....

P0335 - Crankshaft Position [CKP] Sensor A Circuit
P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit A Range/Performance
P0337 - CKP Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P0338 - CKP Sensor Circuit High Frequency
P0339 - Crankshaft Position Circuit Intermittent

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:10 pm

CPS failure can be very annoying.

06 CRD won't start

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