Head overhaul

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 67

My 2006 Liberty CRD has a blown head gasket and burnt turbo. I will be replacing them both with the help of a general diesel mechanic. Right now I am considering an upgraded turbo and EGR bypass from Green Diesel. I am looking for other recommendations on replacement parts and potential upgrades to do while she's apart. Bolts? Gasket?...
Also, anything CRD specific to make my mechanic aware of before we begin?
Thanks...
G

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Oct 05, 2018 5:38 pm

Mrgabesir wrote:

My 2006 Liberty CRD has a blown head gasket and burnt turbo. I will be replacing them both with the help of a general diesel mechanic. Right now I am considering an upgraded turbo and EGR bypass from Green Diesel. I am looking for other recommendations on replacement parts and potential upgrades to do while she's apart. Bolts? Gasket?...
Also, anything CRD specific to make my mechanic aware of before we begin?
Thanks...G

Be sure your mechanic is familiar with performing the timing on these engines, they are very unique.
See this:> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5o_FJpB ... obDPGbbwVD

Replace all the exhaust valves while you got the head off the engine. There have been several that had one break and when that happens it pretty much can destroy an engine.
Weeks Elbow Kit. Allows the total deletion of the EGR valve, EGR cooler, and FCV (flow control valve), and all associated cooling hoses.
New glow plugs if you have not already replaced them. While head is off.
Of course new water pump, timing belt, belt idler pulleys, and tensioner pulley while it is apart.

Other options while you got it apart:
Boost hoses
Serpentine belt and tensioner pulley

Anymore questions, just ask....

vwroad87 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 05, 2018 6:58 pm

Mrgabesir wrote:

My 2006 Liberty CRD has a blown head gasket and burnt turbo. I will be replacing them both with the help of a general diesel mechanic. Right now I am considering an upgraded turbo and EGR bypass from Green Diesel. I am looking for other recommendations on replacement parts and potential upgrades to do while she's apart. Bolts? Gasket?...
Also, anything CRD specific to make my mechanic aware of before we begin?
Thanks...
G

Ditto WWDiesel

And ARP head studs, HDS thermostat housing, fan clutch. Have the mech follow the forum guides/tips and recommendations. I rebuilt my rig after a blown timing belt at 96K with the help of this forum. I put a brand new head on the machine and have saved the previous for a rebuild, it was not damaged.

Some are convinced to use a 2 hole thickness head gasket no matter what comes out of the motor. They say this is on the advice directly from VM engineers. I got lucky mine was a 2 hole. Read the forums!

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 67

Thank you both, I'll do my research!
G

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 67

Apparently I can't order a turbo kit from GDE because I'm in CA. Anyone have experience with this add on turbo wheel, or other upgrades? https://www.xtremediesel.com/diesel-sit ... el-2-wwcrd

Also, any recommendations on where to order the other parts listed above?

Thanks
G

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Fri Nov 30, 2018 12:49 am

I bought most all my parts at IDParts.com. They should have pretty much everything you need including a turbo but you could check Egag or local wrecking yards too. The stock turbo is pretty robust with the GDE hot tune by the way (just my :2cents:

worth). This is what I just did to mine and would recommend if you want to go the full Monty...

Exhaust Valves
Complete Head Gasket kit - comes with new injector seals, intake gaskets, turbo gaskets etc.
ARP studs (grind down the 4 on the exhaust side of the head for proper clearance)
Rockers and lifters
Cam seals
Water Pump
Have the intake cleaned because it's probably clogged with soot
Weeks Stage 1 & 2 EGR delete kit (not supposed to do this in California either... PS. we won't tell)
Glow plugs (probably would never need them in CA but supposedly the ceramic ones can break off and wreak havoc in your engine)
Injectors - These can be tested at an injection shop only. If bad they are ridiculously expensive but hey! it's just money right???
Complete timing set with idlers and tensioner
Complete serpentine belt kit with idlers
Clutch fan - Don't skimp on this! when they go out your engine overheats and you blow a head gasket... Need I say more?
Vibration Dampener - if the one you have has over 100k replace it. if it fails it can wipe out your front seal and crank bearings if left too long.
CAC hoses - If you haven't replaced yours yet with the newer silicone ones, now is the time. You can order them to match the color of your rig too (way cool)
Have your intercooler tested for leaks - now is a great time to get it repaired with JB Weld if necessary...

Install a lift pump below your filter assembly - While the intake is out there is a ton of room to install a Carter rotary vane diesel pump like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARTER-Univers ... 3018771992
You will need to cut the steel line going up to the fuel filter (I used a cordless sawzall) then use good quality 3/8" fuel line and a couple of hose clamps. I've done this on a couple of these rigs with excellent results. Have it just hang from the fuel filters inlet line as it's quite noisy if solidly mounted. You can run the hot lead to the fuse box and hook it into the hot side of the injector fuse.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Dec 04, 2018 4:06 am

Mrgabesir wrote:

Apparently I can't order a turbo kit from GDE because I'm in CA. Anyone have experience with this add on turbo wheel, or other upgrades? https://www.xtremediesel.com/diesel-sit ... el-2-wwcrd

Also, any recommendations on where to order the other parts listed above?

Thanks
G

If you get your turbo from Sasquatch Parts, it comes with that wheel already installed, and with a warranty, so you don't risk doing something that would void one.

Another option, contact diesel_guy86 if you have an OEM Garrett turbo. He can rebuild and alter it for higher performance for about the same money as the Sasquatch one. I don't know if there is a significant difference in performance. Both have their own advantages. I've had a Sasquatch unit on for 2 years, I like it, and as far as I know it's as good as new. Send diesel_guy86 a PM. I've heard he could have supplier issues until after the holidays. He may be a while getting to it.

Yet another option would be to order a GDE kit, and have it delivered to a friend or relative in Oregon, Nevada, Utah, or Arizona. No problem in any of those states.

IDParts is a good supplier. It may well be the most painless purchase you ever make. (Aside from the wallet flattening. Hey, if it gets too thick it can throw your back out:)

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 67

Wow, thank you guys so much! I've seen DIY turbo rebuild kits out there, but I'm wary, any thoughts?

G

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2018 6:51 am

Unless you have local connection, you're still going to need to send it off for balancing. Plus all risk (from assembly mistakes to materials defects) is on YOU. Proving anything against someone else is nearly impossible.

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 67

Thanks all, getting close. How vital is it to change the lifters and rockers? I'm running well over budget, but don't want to skimp and get bit in the butt.
Also, regarding the weeks kit, will that set off an error? Require programming? Workaround? Anyone with experience in CA? I don't want to run into issues at smog check.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Dec 12, 2018 11:20 pm

I can't make value judgements for anyone else, but to me, even if it took a little longer, the valve train is such a core issue with these engines, that I wouldn't take a chance like that to save a few bucks. I've made that choice with the Trans before, and really wish I'd just waited and saved a couple more months and gotten a reman trans instead of a used.

For CA you will want to go out of your way to make it look as stock as possible. (IE No flashy blingy stuff. Stay with (flat or satin) black as much as possible so nothing stands out. (particularly important if you remove the EGR in favor of a Weeks kit.) Only an owner of one of these gems will be able to spot the absence of the EGR/FCV. If you get such an emissions inspector, I'd definitely check up on your life insurance, it'd be that unlucky.

Emissions is unlikely to be a problem, it's the funky colored hoses and elbow that will catch their eye, so stay with black.

Don't use any Red, gold, blue, or smeary ultra black silicone sealer when putting the intake elbow adapter on. Silicone smudges and excessive squeezeout also draw attention.

If you have a Weeks 2, full pipe removal, take the manifold plug and paint it a classic rust colored Rustoleum, to make it look consistent with the rusted cast iron. Seal it well from inside the manifold and clamp it tight. If it's not leaking, it shouldn't draw their attention.

Your safest bet is to get a GDE tune.
If you can't afford that yet, there are free tunes that allow removal of the FCV and EGR valves completely without triggering a CEL or DTC code. I don't know if they've made it to the front DIY page or not yet. They used to be in a 70-something page number. I'm sure others will know better than I. At the start, I used a free tune that cancelled the FCV error, but not the EGR. I took the servo coil off the disused EGR mess, and wired it directly to the former EGR loom connector. No more CEL no more error code. I believe you could also wire in an appropriate value resistor (8 Ohm) with the same results.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2018 2:22 am

EGR error codes are generated off of the lack of airflow change (reduction) across the MAF when the EGR is commanded on. A GDE tune will remove the codes from the system so there is no CEL. Several CRDs that I have worked on are in Cali, and I have not heard of them having issues with the EGR deletes when they have a proper tune. I do not know about the DIY tune options, they clear the codes from the table but I don't know about the readiness status. FWIW, I believe that the inspection will still pass a vehicle with either one or two readiness indicators not cleared, but no more than that. So if this is true, if the EGR readiness isn't cleared in the computer (but still no code) then you should be OK.

As far as the rockers - there was a design change on the lifters, the new design does not spontaneously come apart and possibly leak oil pressure. The rockers - the bearings usually suffer badly from the abrasive soot from the EGR, if the bearings are not "raised" above the sides or they are sloppy, then they definitely should be replaced.

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 67

Can someone direct me to guide/references/videos re head gasket replacement?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri May 10, 2019 9:39 pm

Mrgabesir wrote:

Can someone direct me to guide/references/videos re head gasket replacement?

See page 9 - 192 2.8L COMMON RAIL DIESEL ENGINE in the Factory Service Manual at:> http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/J ... Manual.pdf

Jeep Manuals are available online at:> http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun May 12, 2019 8:44 am

Here is a link to the topic of rocker replacement below but if you are removing the head there is really nothing extra to do but buy the rockers. The valves and rockers are much less expensive at VM Specialists in England but they take 2 to 3 weeks to receive and you pay exchange rate and duty etc The valves were $64 a set last year but you may want to consider a used head from them for aroun$450. viewtopic.php?f=98&t=75479&start=0

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 67

Thanks all, is it possible to identify the head gasket before removal, or should I do the tear down first?

geordi · **Posted:** Thu May 16, 2019 10:55 am

There is a tab that protrudes between cylinders 2 and 3 on the intake side that indicates what size the gasket is. HOWEVER - you want the two-hole gasket in all cases. The thickness of the gasket controls how the gasket seals, because if the liner is allowed to contact the head, no further compression of the gasket is possible and the system WILL leak.

Mrgabesir · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:21 am **Posts:** 67

Lift pump.... I was recommended Carter VE4600, which doesn't seem to be available anymore, is the P4600 suitable? Any other recomendations?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-P4600HP ... xyYSdTD4ns

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu May 23, 2019 10:45 pm

Any in-tank pump that fits a Dodge Ram 2500+ with the Cummins diesel will fit. If you go that route, the only thing that needs changing/modification is the float, arm, and sending unit sensor that just clips into the unit body, and wires where they terminate at the top connector.

For example: https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&Nr=AND%28make%3ADodge%2Cyear%3A2006%2Cmodel%3ARam+2500%2Cpart%3AFuel+Pump%2Cuniversal%3A0%29&Ntk=Main&Nu=P_PF_ID_1&PN=0+939&VN=4294966967+4294956242+4294950662

I ended up using a Carter P76611M from a 2006 3500 crew cab.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu May 23, 2019 11:00 pm

Mrgabesir wrote:

Lift pump.... I was recommended Carter VE4600, which doesn't seem to be available anymore, is the P4600 suitable? Any other recomendations?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-P4600HP ... xyYSdTD4ns

Either one of these will work:
Airtex E7181M
or
CARTER P76148M

Both available on Amazon and many other places...

Head overhaul

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