rescue.tech wrote:
Here are some pics of the the assesory drive belt in the crank pulley
How bad are the valve lash adjuster bore holes if the lashes look like this? It looks like just the top of the hole is oblong, I haven't pulled them yet because they did not come out easily. I am not sure I understand how the oil gets in, from the bottom or not. But how important is the lash to hole clearance tolerance?
The exhaust side, every one of the rockers were smoked but none of the lashes were damaged like the intake side. Some of the rockers on the intake side were damaged. I also tapped on the valve stems lightly and all the exhaust sounded solid, but four of the intakes sound hollow and don't sound like they should. So I am sure those valves are smoked as well.
So the next step I am going to pull the head when I have time.
Question for Sir Sam, where did you get the tools like intake locating pins and injector seat tool and others I may not know about. I was going to order the leak down tester but no use now seeing hows I am going to pull the head.
At this point I am up for suggestion....
Thanks
Clint
We cant see any of the photos, I'd recommend using imgur.com if you need free easy image hosting.
I would be interested in see what you mean about bore holes.
I would recommend you do the leakdown check before/instead of pulling the head, I think it pretty unlikely you need to do any head work. Look across the tops of the valves and see if they are all in line, if something is not then maybe you have a valve issue. I wouldn't say anything about the condition of the valves based on sound alone. Its really about what pressure they will hold.
I also don't think replacing used valves is necessary enough to pull the head, and here is why; Infant Mortality.
I have a used head that was a brand new from VM head, it made it less than 5k before dropping a valve and trashing an engine.
I have the first head that engine came with as well - which is warped beyond use.
The first head was replaced because it was warped, the second head, brand new from VM, had a NEW valve fail soon.
You have proven working valves that have passed the infant mortality phase. I don't see the need to replace good valves with new valves that "might" be good long term.
Granted its not often that a new valve fails so quick, but I am not of the opinion that replacing the old ones gets you anything better than you have now.
My tool set is the Jeep OEM set, however ID parts sells a very nice set of timing belt tools. If I needed to buy tools now I would likely buy their set.
If leakdown check is good go with ARP studs while its off and following my recommendations above for other parts. Some of your thoughts seem odd to me, willing to pull the head without checking if its needed first, but hesitant to buy a water pump. Granted you haven't made any decisions about how exactly to proceed yet, but those thoughts just seem at odds to me.
_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can
DO with your Jeep, its about where you can
GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic