Bought this Jeep on the weekend 167,000km (Australia, if the engine bay looks different).
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6uVvs71LJ341Buwg9

The Story - Timing belt broke so the jeep has had the top end rebuilt, it starts with effort and runs poorly as can be heard in this video. - https://photos.app.goo.gl/uEv1aZRfqiB4cdZH7
It can crawls in first if you let it build up revs, enough for me to get on a car carrier but that's it. It had been sitting for 6 months abandoned.

I have been told the timing is off so I will be following these tutorials
https://youtu.be/5o_FJpBEKjk
https://youtu.be/BIbBPUlVDdM

What do you guys think? Suggestions or advice before I start this job.

Are you on the Aussie Forum http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com ? Maybe someone nearby to you has experience doing this and can assist you. I would not like to do this sort of job myself....one thing replacing a belt before it breaks but repairing a damaged engine is for the Experts!

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Thanks for the advice I'll definitely post it there too. I'm trying to gather as much info as possible. I understand that an engine rebuild is a massive job. My initial thought was to have a look at the timing belt to see if it's been done properly. In my head, I think the injection pump is mistimed and causing this issue. I plan to be as careful as possible doing the timing belt, run the engine for ten seconds as recommended then check and listen for improvements. If no improvements are noticed then, get the engine looked at. I bought it as a project so I'm no rush and if it means having to do an engine rebuild, so be it.

The injection pump cannot really be timed, and if its running its seems like its timed correct.

Its worth checking the timing of the engine, but I would look in a different direction.

Check the mechanicals, timing, compression, etc, but this seems like a electronic control issue to me.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Thanks Sam. I'll definitely do all the diagnostics before I dig in and look at the timing.

Quick update.
Yesterday I disconnected the map sensor to see if it was dirty, it wasn't, so I decided to put it back in but left it disconnected just to see what happened. There was no difference, I could still start and run the car and it sounded the same with the map sensor in or out.

So... I'm thinking it's not working. I'll do some suggested tests and report.

Any thoughts?

Do you have a code reader that will display engine sensor data? If so you could see what the map sensor is reading.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

These early Export CRDs like you and I have are very difficult to find a code reader that will work on them.
They use a PCI bus as apposed to the CAN/SCSI busses the later CRDS use.

I took my Export 2.5 CRD to the local Bosch Dealers to have my Bosch ECM read...they took one look at it and shook their heads.

However I use the "Key" trick often to pull out codes....with some limitations!

Without starting the engine rapidly turn the ignition ON/OFF 4 times.
After the 4th ON action leave the ignition ON.

The Odometer display will start displaying codes in sequence from the oldest...which may be ancient and no longer of interest...to the latest codes.

Write down the last few codes and post them up here.

The codes are not erased using this method.
Codes are stored only once so although you may be getting code P1234 all the time it will only show once.

The last two digits are sometimes transposed so a code of P1234 may actually show as P1243 which can confuse you if such a code does exist.

A lot of users here say "turn ignition ON/OFF 3 times".....this may be valid for newer USA models but I definitely know that 4 times works on my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD.

I sometimes deliberately cause a code...pull out one of the Glow Pug Relays and start the Jeep. This I use as a marker so that any brand new code I receive will show up last and I know that I have a new problem! You dis-connecting the MAP sensor will have caused a relevant code!

I have a neat download that specifically covers the early Export CRD error codes with information on what to do about them. I do not have the link for it but it is only 1 Mb in size so I can e-mail it to you if you PM me your e-mail address.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Thanks Billybob,
Any help is useful. I've send you me email.

Again thanks to Billybob here's a video of the key cycle for error codes on dash for a 02 Cherokee Sport CRD 2.8L (Liberty).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8DBe9DxAJin4Bsgr8

Here are the error codes listed.
p201
p204
p1130
p0836
p0460
p0235
p0110

I still don't know what they mean but I'll report here again soon I get the code meanings, which from what I head are different for export Jeep Liberty CRDs.

Here is what I found regarding the listed codes using the onboard diagnostics of the service manual.


- Diagnostic Table of Contents


- P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit Signal Too High/Low


- P0201 - Cylinder 1 Injector Current Decrease
- Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit Load Drop
- Cylinder 1 Injector Overcurrent High Side/Low Side


- P0204 - Cylinder 4 Injector Current Decrease
- Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Load Drop
- Cylinder 4 Injector Overcurrent High Side/Low Side


- P0235 - Boost Pressure Sensor Plausibility
- Boost Pressure Sensor Signal Voltage Too High/Low


- P1130 - Fuel Rail Malfunction Small Leak Detected

I couldn't find codes P0460 and P0836 in the manual, so I did a google search and got this

P0460 Fuel Level Circuit Malfunction
P0836 Four Wheel Drive Switch Circuit Range/Performance

So.... now that I have these codes I can start troubleshooting. If you've experienced any of these please help.


Cheers

Ok firstly if your Jeep is a 2002 Export diesel KJ it will be a 2.5 L not the 2.8 L which came out late 2003 I think and at first only in Automatic form.

If you have not already downloaded the 2002 Jeep KJ Service manual then do it from the link below.
Section 8W has the wiring diagrams.

While you are there you must definitely download the section "2.5_2.8 export diesel" which applies to our Export 2.5/2.8 CRDs which have several differences to the 2005/6 USA models.

Our CRDs have a fixed-vane turbo as apposed to the variable vane turbos of the later year CRDs.

There is a description in this manual on how to purge air out of the Racor fuel filter fitted on our CRDs but they omit to mention that while you are pumping the white plunger down several times...as it gets hard you must briefly open/close the 10 mm brass bolt on the filter head to let the air out. Do this a few times...might be a simple action like this that will solve some of your problems.

You should have received the manual I e-mailed you with the Error codes for our CRDs and what to do about them. Where they mention "connect the DBIII Code Reader" you have to ignore them as they are talking about the Reader that only the Dealers have. However where they give you advice such as remove the ASD relay, jumper pins 30 and 87 together etc. you can follow the procedures given and see where it gets you.

I will look through the wiring diagrams to see what I can see....seems to me that there is one common problem such as a bad ground causing most of your problems!

2002 Jeep KJ Service Manual and 2.5_2.8 export diesel manuals:

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Hey Billlybob,
Thanks for all that. However, I haven't received the email with the error codes. But I did see in the link you provided that there was this link below which lists error codes. Is this the document or is there another?

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/J ... 02kjed.pdf

This is picture of my fuel filter.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pxez8eNF4XGkJqvA7


The fuel system must be primed if the fuel system
has been serviced. This is done using the fuel primer
plunger located at the top of the fuel filter/water separator.
(1) With service completed on the fuel system.
(2) Unscrew fuel system primer plunger by
unscrewing it counterlockwise (Fig. 1).
(3) Pull primer up out of bore until it stops (Fig.1).
(4) Pump primer plunger up and down until air
bubbles cannot be seen in fuel filter cap at the bottom
of the fuel filter/water separator (Fig. 1).

After reading these instructions it does seem confusing since it mentions to prime until bubbles cannot be seen on the fuel filter cap - at the bottom. I did see some videos on purging air from racor filters and I tried it already but not much happened, however, I do remember thinking when I loosened the brass bolt that the liquid coming out felt more like oil than diesel.

I'll start working through the advice described in the error code document and see where it leads me.

The attachment that I sent to you did not go through for some reason.

However that link that you show is the document that I was trying to send to you so use that to follow up your error codes. This must have been added at a later date so I did not notice it was there. Did you download the "2.5 2.8 export diesel" document?

You did mention that you unplugged the MAP sensor so you would have caused an error code for starting the engine with the MAP unplugged so ignore that for the time being.

The Racor filter head you have is the same as mine.
Just pump that white plunger up and down until it gets hard then crack open the 10 mm brass nut briefly and close again and repeat. You can catch the liquid coming out to stop it messing up the engine bay and so you can inspect it...maybe you have a tank full of bad fuel?

That one code you have is for a problem regarding the Fuel Level Sensor in the tank.
Drain the tank and on our early KJs you do not have to drop the tank.
Lift up the carpet in the Cargo area by drilling out the Pop Rivets at the plastic hooks.
You can now remove the cover to the what they call the fuel pump assembly although there is no fuel pump! Check that all connections are on firmly and that there is no dirt blocking up or jamming anything there.

Deliberately cause an error...pull out one the large relays for the glow plugs and start the engine. Put the relay back and use that code as a "marker" so any new different code will come after your Marker.

So try the actions in the Document as regards measuring voltages and resistance and jumpering the ASD Relay etc. and see what you find.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Thanks again, Billybob. I'm looking to tackle it this weekend with my brother who has a better mind when it comes to electrics.

So, I spent most of the day running through the tests suggested in the error codes document. My brother was there with me or rather I was there with him as we performed the tests. We found no faults in terms of electrical issues, open or shorted circuits. We even came up with our own test. We disconnected the working injectors that weren't showing error codes while the engine was running so we could note any differences, there were none, except now I have error codes on those injectors from that test also.

While looking around I noticed that this small metal box was loose. I don't even know what it is. I also added a video.

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1TC3 ... sp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1Lrt ... sp=sharing

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oNUBrT2fkfCyWBuu9


As you can see this has some play, should it? I haven't tightened it yet.

Now I'm thinking that the errors codes where only there due to disconnected plugs and not real problems.

I still think it's a timing issue. As in the engine isn't properly timed, mostly the injection pump, although Corobotchicken did say that the injection doesn't need to be timed. Either way, I'm still waiting for the timing kit to arrive. So in the meantime, I thought about doing diesel purge using luiqui molly or even straight diesel, reason being is that when I got the bubbles out of the filter as suggested, the diesel smelled like it had thinner, it had that kind of smell.

Let me know what you think.
Cheers

did you test fuel injectors ??? i believe you have a bad injector so please check them out there is a few DIY procedures you can do but the best one is take them to BOSCH.


il give you a tip, remove exhaust manifold heat shields get somebody to start the JEEP, do it quickly because it get hot really fast. feel with your hand the heat on each exhaust port dont burn your hands, let us know which one is hotter that will possibly thats the one that is overfueling. Also IR temp gun works well.

Thanks again. I'll check the injectors at Bosch if I can figure out where they are here.

I do not have that small metal box that you show a picture of on my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD.

Does it have an electrical connection on it?
If so does the cable from it go onto the MAP sensor next to it? The Bosch MAP Sensor is held down by two small Allen screws on the Export CRD.

If the above is true then I suspect that someone fitted a pirate "Performance Chip" that modifies the resistance of the MAP sensor to give you more power at the cost of worse fuel mileage!

I tried a similar Italian made chip on the recommendation of another 2.5 CRD owner....worked fine for a while then blew up on the open road. I removed this device and plugged the cable straight back on the MAP sensor.

If this is one of the Chips then that is your problem...throw it away and connect the cable from the harness direct onto the MAP sensor.!

Also remove and carefully clean the MAP sensor...very delicate device...I spray it with Brake Cleaner. Looks slightly different to the USA models which are held on with only one larger Allen key.

I do not see any video?

I recall reading a long post previously regarding the timing of the CP3 pump.....possibly by Keith of GDE.
The Jeep will run reasonably fine with the pump fitted any way but this long post actually showed that there is about a one-in-three chance of actually getting the pump exactly timed correctly! I will see if I can find that post but this is not your problem!

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Regarding the small metal box: Here are some pics and hopefully, the video is there this time.

I found the hose coming from the Common Rail return had a small tear.

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1Lrt ... sp=sharing

https://photos.app.goo.gl/T2ng3pLUyfsGiqj87

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1MOW ... sp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1PpP ... sp=sharing

Videos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ok3Mj7nFpYuzzSi9A

From Underneath

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3dBQsv5r2o4GDsEY7



No, it does not seem to have an electrical connection going to it.

Yes the map sensor is indeed held down by two screws, though not allen on mine.

Could you possibly show me a photo of your car in this area?

I will replace this hose tomorrow though I still don't believe this is the only issue as to why the engine sounds like it does. I hope and would be over the moon if this is the solution. But I fear it may just be an addition to the list of things not working properly.

Thoughts?

PS

I found a diagram of the small metal box I'm talking about in the 2.5export manual - Section 8I-3 Fig 5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/N1iKo4Cvig5QVXMz9

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t7UmEh ... sp=sharing

so according to section 14 - 8 Fuel Delivery, the torn hose is a fuel rail return line - Fig 6 No.7 which connects to Z Arrow a the bottom of the (little metal box) Fuel Return Junction Box - Section 14 -12 Fig 13 No.19


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ADbsLb ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E_YlYc ... sp=sharing

sorry I only looked at the manual once I'd already found the torn hose.