Ok I do not have that metal box...maybe the dealers here lost it after a service.....maybe have a look under there to see if the Inlet Manifold is bolted on firmly.

OK I can see and hear that first video you posted up. Sounds really sick....if it is not due to the injector CEL codes then I think you will need to pull off the head and see if anything is broken there. There are lots of good posts in the CRD Tech section on how to replace the timing belt...no real difference on the later USA models compared to our Export models.

Make sure the Alternator Clutch/de-coupler is working. These CRDs and the 2.4 Gasser have a one-way clutch on the alternator. Signs of it packing up are a red "rust" on the front plastic cover of the alternator. Remove the Serpentine belt and check the alternator pulley can only be turned in one direction...should freewheel in the other direction. Check the serpentine idler pulleys and tensioner pulley are in good shape. The crankshaft pulley I believe should have a rubber coupling on it as well...that engine of yours really jumps around!

MY GF smashed in the front-right of my Jeep when a tree jumped in front of her. Panelbeaters fixed up the damage but obviously drove the Jeep very low on coolant and blew up the head.

The Dealers fixed up the head, timing belt etc. but when I picked it up the engine had a bad vibration.
Turned out that they had mis-timed the counter-balancers under the crankshaft so check that out as well if you open up the engine.

The return fuel line will not affect performance just spill diesel on the engine but that is something you can fix up.

On the other side of the engine near to the airbox is a black solenoid. Has two small rubber hoses on it and a small plastic/paper filter dangling from it...two wires plugged into the connector.

That is the solenoid to open/close the EGR at the rear of the engine.
The ECM only complains if it senses that the wires going to the solenoid are open circuit or short circuit.

I have actually blocked off the one pipe with a small screw to disable the EGR....get slightly better performance. However if the EGR is actually stuck in the open position you will get bad performance.
Read up in the manuals how this solenoid/EGR works and how to check if it is working properly.

Make sure you definitely do not have a tear or hole in the CAC hoses going to the Intercooler up front.
These old Jeeps of ours have the possibility of the intercooler being filled up with oil from the PCV valve on the valve cover which pumps out oil unless you have the Provent or Elephant hose mod installed and also you may have cracks in the intercooler where the hose clamp on but this would only give you a small loss of performance....you can disconnect the hose at the intake manifold to check if there is a fairly strong air-flow coming out.

Our fixed-vane turbos use a form of Dump Valve located next to the turbo...read up on how that works.

Definitely clean the MAP sensor if you have not done so already.

Let me know how you are doing tracking down those error codes as regards using a meter to check voltages/resistance etc. at the ASD relay for instance as the procedures call out for all the error codes you are getting. You may need to get the Dealers to clear all the codes so that you can continue with a clean slate with any new codes. I suspect that the Injector codes could be the main issue!

The P0235 and P0110 codes were probably caused by you disconnecting the MAP sensor! I would concentrate on the Fuel Injector Codes and the Fuel Rail Pressure codes!


Check fuel and air filters are OK...I had a mouse set up a nice home in the air-box but this only affected the performance not the horrible noise your engine makes

Definitely log onto the ausjeepoffroad site as there are lots of owners of the Export CRDs there and some real experts such as "glend" who also posts up here on Lost sometimes.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Thanks again, Billybob.

Rob.Fer07

could you post a video of your exhaust pipe? because itd be easier to diagnose injector issue. Regarding the level of smoke. also you mentioned that your engine top end was rebuilt. did anyone test the injectors before they put it back in? thats what we use to do in the truck shop, when we did engine rebuilds. ive been a licensed 310T since 1992.

I'll take a video of the exhaust when I get home tonight.

Here's a video of the exhaust and some reving.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/gAEz5GziaCUeQEYH7

Here is a picture of my Boost Pressure Sensor

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dRaAwo9UycHxHRSM6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/a8LVbxGsFzDudCWTA

Which nothing like the one described in the manual for the 2.5L export Section 14 - 20,21

When I looked up the numbers on my Boost Pressure Sensor (BOSCH
0 281 002 205 ) I found that it is listed for Chysler, Fiat, Iveco, Landrover, But not Jeep. I realise Jeep is owned by Chrysler but something doesn't seem right.

http://www.vehiclepartsdatabase.com/veh ... 0281002205

While the car was running, when I took that video above I purposefully unplugged the Boost Pressure Sensor and there was absolutely no change. I know that's not a good test but does that mean anything.

Also, I read in the manual - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BOOST PRESSURE/INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR If the boost pressure sensor fails, the ECM records a DTC into memory and continues to operate the engine in one of the three limp-in modes[/color]. When the ECM is operating in this mode, a loss of power will be present, as if the turbocharger was not operating. The best method for diagnosing faults with the boost pressure sensor is with the DRB IIIt scan tool. Refer to the Diesel Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for more information.

Am I possibly experiencing this limp mode mentioned since maybe the BPS isn't working?

I'm going to test the connectors and the sensor itself tomorrow and report.

That MAP sensor looks much like mine from when I bought the Jeep new in 2002.

Mine is a definite Bosch one...I did write the number down but cant find it....will remove it and write down the number and take a picture but....what is the Name/number melted into the plastic section on your sensor....from your picture when enlarged it looks like 0-281-002-205?

Forget about any other numbers you may see on Lost etc. as the 2005/6 USA 2.8 CRDs use a sensor held on by one bolt only and the "probe" looks different ie. the probe appears to have "cage" around it as the picture you are referring to on 14-20,21 shows. Mine has never had this cage on it unless the Dealers removed it at one of the early services! The KJ manuals do have some errors in them so you cannot believe everything you see in them!

I don't know of any way to test it with a meter as it it is effectively a variable resistor with centre taps so you would expect to get a certain large resistance between two contacts and smaller readings from the taps. I will measure mine for its resistance.

This is supposed to be both a Boost pressure sensor and an Air Intake sensor...don't know how that works!


OK Edit to Add: I removed my MAP sensor....just as well as the O-Ring had broken and was leaking!

Battling to download photos but mine looks exactly like yours...Bosch PN 0-281-002-205 and does not have a "cage" around the probe...same as yours!

Measuring pin to pin resistance from Pin 4 Dark Blue/Yellow Stripe facing front of Jeep.

Pin 4 to pin 1 5.505 k Ohm
4 to pin 3 10 k Ohm
4 to pin 2 6.65 k Ohm

Look at page 8W-3-26 in the 2002 Jeep KJ Service Manual for the wiring.

I on two occasions had the P0235 error...CEL light came on but performance not drastically affected.

I had to trace the above wires for continuity and for short to ground and found one suspect wire...cannot remember which one....which I had to cut off at both end and replace with a new one.

This is a bit difficult to do when you have splices going off to other areas in the wiring as you will see on the relevant wiring diagram. I had to isolate about 9 wires previously in different areas of the wiring due to shorts or partial shorts in the wiring harness. My GF ran into a tree and damaged the front-right of the Jeep. The main wiring harness goes all the way around the engine bay through several connectors and up front there was damage to the harness...unable to get to as it runs through a metal channel.
So one by one I had to cut off bad wires on all ends including splices so the wires were hanging in mid air so to speak. I then replaced the wires with new ones but took the shortest route point-t-point.

I had weird problems like turning on the front wipers would slowly raise the battery voltage to 17 volts...I had my meter plugged into the front power outlet so I could watch while driving. At 17 volts there would be a "ping" and the Jeep would grind to a halt but would re-start. After a long trip in the rain my battery had boiled away!

If your MAP Sensor has the same readings as mine...ambient Temp. about 20 degs C... then it is probably OK....you caused two codes by unplugging the MAP.

You need to chase up the injector codes I think!

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Thanks for confirming that the sensors are the same. I will test it out. I just find it strange that there would be no change whatsoever when unplugging it while the engine is going, like stalling or something. I will rule it out, then keep looking at the injectors.

You may need to swap a suspect injector over with one that is not complaining......if a new code appears from the suspect injector that is now in its new slot then that injector is bad. If the error stays with the wiring then you may have a wiring problem.

Check the contacts on the ECM connectors are clean and not burnt or dirty...re-plugging them a few times may help.

Each injector has a unique number on it for fine tuning via the ECM so make a note of the numbers for each position so you can return the injectors to the correct slot or else you need to change the values inside the ECM. I think those numbers are recorded on an engine sticker somewhere.

First make sure you have clean good diesel and clean filters etc.

I hope my measurements on my MAP sensor are correct...I was working by torchlight due to a power outage here in darkest Africa!

have you joined ausjeepoffroad.com yet?

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Thanks for all your help so far. I have joined Aussie Forum but haven't posted yet as I'm unsure where it'll be best to post. But I'll look into it tonight since it's raining here so I can't work on the Jeep since it's on the nature strip.

The "metal box" you have been referring to is the return fuel manifold.
Wish we had that. That was replaced on the 2.8L R428 engine with a flimsy pos plastic jobby that breaks really easily.
Lines going in are
1) Return fuel from the Cascade Overflow Valve of the injector pump
2) Return fuel from the injectors (bleedoff - smallest line)
3) Return fuel from the Fuel Pressure Solenoid (Common Rail) over-pressure regulation.

One line going out, connects to steel return line to the tank. (Behind the fuel filter)

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

Find the section of all the Jeep models and post in the KJ section.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Sweet. I'm just compiling everything from this thread so I can post it there.

I was looking at the boost pressure sensor thinking about why there was no change whatsoever when I disconnected it while the car was running.

My brother and I tested the Boost Pressure Sensor and the actual sensor send to work. Simply by using a multimeter we could see a change in ohms as we held the sensor unit by hand it recorded a difference then again when we blew on it as to mimic cold.

We then tested pin number 1 for ground and couldn't get continuity, so we tested the rest just incase we got the wrong ground pin and could not get continuity. I'm gonna chase the harness to see if there are any torn or broken wires.

That pin #1 Black/Light Blue wire gets spliced to a whole lot of components such as on page 8Wa-70-6 via connector C105 pin 2.

I had a problem after my GF front ended my Jeep whereby the Battery Icon came on solid on the Cluster.
At this stage I had never joined any Jeep websites and had never climbed into the circuitry of my Jeep.
The Owners manual stated that this meant Alternator was not charging so I took the Jeep to an Auto Electrician who tested the alternator and said it was OK and that I should take the Jeep to a Dealer to have the Battery Icon reset.

I went to the Dealer and asked them to reset the light. After about an hour waiting I sneaked into the workshop and found a "technician" scratching his head over my engine with the main loom pulled apart while he was going through his Manuals. He suggested that it could be the ECM but they did not have that PN ECM in stock and unfortunately the other CRDs next to mine that were in for a service had different PN ECMs so he could not swap them over! Nice to know that if you take your Jeep to an acredited Jeep Dealer for a service they could be robbing parts from your vehicle to fault-find a problem on another vehicle. I told the Techie to put it all back together and drove out.

I then searched on the Internet for Jeep KJ models and found my first KJ manuals.
I am retired now but qualified in Electrical Engineering Light Current and worked for 34 years in Support fixing Mainframe Computers and peripherals and Industrial Robotics so electronics do not scare me.

I found that this Battery Icon can also be set by the Battery Temperature Sensor you see on page 8wa-70-6. This sensor sits under the battery on early KJs and allows the ECM/PCM to slightly adjust the charge current to the battery depending on its temperature.

This Black/Light Blue wire number K4 that we are both interested in was also not showing ground...I was unsure if the ground was only supposed to be there when the ECM was powered on and the ECM then supplied ground to all these components on that wire number K4.

So as I could not locate a break in the wire as it disappeared into the main harness I added my own ground to it direct to chassis. That fixed my problem and was the start of my long journey of fault-finding my Jeep and helping other Jeep owners on the various Jeep Forums.

So the moral of this long story is that I safely grounded this wire to chassis and feel that you can do the same....it is the same wire going to pin #1 on the MAP sensor.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

I'm glad electronics don't scare you, cause they scare me.

Do you know is it's one entire harness or two? I was thinking of pulling out the top harness if there's two or the whole harness if there's only one. Since I'm not confident with wiring I'll be photographing everything and sticking notes to everything as I disconnect connectors. I want to check the whole harness, fix any obvious issues then using electrical loom to reapply protection. That's tomorrow's job ready fuel filter and accelerator position module are already disconnected.

There is basically one large harness that runs right around the engine bay like a beltway going around a large city like Washington DC. The wires going to the map sensor may be only about 18 inches from the ECM where they all start off but they circle the whole engine bay, have several connectors in series with them and several Splices added to branch off to many other places. The harness goes through a metal square tube under the radiator and eventualy returns almost back to where it started. So it takes a journey of about 6 feet until it gets to the ECM!

So when my harness was damaged up front from the frontal impact it was impossible to trace individual wires! I had to cut off the ends of the wire I was tracing..including all Splices....and could measure that the circuit had a short or partial short to chassis/engine or to another random wire next to it in the harness hence the partial short as I was measuring this "floating wire" shorting to another wire with maybe a solenoid connected to its end.

In this case I taped off the ends of my suspect circuit and replaced the wire..including splices...with new wire but taking the shortest route point-to-point. I then marked my changes on the relevant wiring page which sits under the rear seat for the next Owner of my Jeep to find!

I had about 9 wires that I had to do this with....problems did not all show up at one time but after several months they had settled down!

I hope you do not have to go through all this but maybe with one or two circuits. There is not much chance of unraveling the harness to trace a suspect circuit from starting point to final destination!

When there is a connector in series with the wire you are tracing, piece the insulation of the wire with a needle or pin on both sides of the connector to see if you have continuity or if there is a bad contact within the connector housing. You can close the pin holes in the insulation later with some glue or heat.

This Black/Light Blue wire that should show ground at pin 1 at the MAP sensor you should cut the wire near the sensor, tape off the wire where it goes into the harness, add on a new section of wire to the stub of wire near the MAP connector and mount that to chassis....I used a mounting bolt of the ECM to chassis for my Battery sensor missing ground problem! The rest of the circuitry where this wire goes to may be OK ie. no shorts or open circuits. If that does not fix your problem...re-connect the wires back together in their original form or you may be creating new problems!

Use solder and shrink-insulation to join wires together.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Thanks for the advice I'll let you know how I go. I couldn't do much yesterday, storms hit us, but today looks alright.

i hope you have diagnosed the issue, it would be nice if you post another video with the engine running without excessive smoke and misfire.

The lead up to Christmas has been hectic but back to being an automobile detective again. I did the test you suggested as below. The results follow.

Measuring pin to pin resistance from Pin 4 Dark Blue/Yellow Stripe facing front of Jeep.

Pin 4 to pin 1 5.505 k Ohm
4 to pin 3 10 k Ohm
4 to pin 2 6.65 k Ohm


My Results are comparable.
4 - 1 ... 4.773 Ohm
4 - 2 ... 6.82 Ohm
4 - 3 ... 10.03 Ohm

I also cleaned all the chassis grounds and can now confirm that pin 1 on the connector is properly ground.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ngJ_HZ ... sp=sharing
I checked pin 3 which is supposed to be the sensor reference voltage which from my research and understanding is supposed to be 5 volts but I get a reading of 6.91 Volts with the ignition on.

So my questions are .....
1. What could be causing this high voltage reference
2. What are the potential symptoms
3. Where do I start in fixing it?

OK I checked pin 3 Sensor Voltage on my MAP sensor and got 5.01 volts.
This voltage is generated in the ECM but the ECM will need a good ground and good +12 volts input. It appears to me the ECM picks up its ground on Connector C1 pins 1 and 2...both Black/Dark Green wires....this on page 8Wa-80-55.

You need to check the ground points around the engine bay near to the ECM as shown in the Wiring Diagrams under Ground Locations.

Check the voltages between pins 1 and pins 4 while running....should fluctuate as you accelerate.
Likewise do the same between pins 3 and 4.
You then need to check these readings at connector C1 just before these wires enter the ECM in case you have broken wires....this on page 8Wa-80-55...push a pin or needle through the wire insulation at these point and measure voltages on that pin.

I do not believe that this reference voltage difference should make too much difference..those Pirate Tuning Chips that intercept the wires going to the MAP sensor merely adds resistors in series/parallel to the MAP sensor to fool the ECM but it does not affect power drastically.

Remove the CAC hose from the output of the intercooler and feel if you are getting a good pressure of air going towards the intake manifold. Likewise check that there is no major blow-back of air coming back from the intake manifold.

The engine shake you are getting could be bad timing, a bad rubber damping unit on the crank pulley or mistimed counter balancers. I had my timing belt replaced by the Dealers and had a bad shake when I picked up the Jeep. They then claimed that they had timed the counter balancers to the 2.8 L mark instead of the 2.5 L mark....sounded like BS to me as the counter balancers are timed with a pin which is removed as the assembly is bolted into place.

I have deliberately caused a CEL by pulling out one of the Glow Plug relays. This is now my Marker so any new code posted comes after my Marker!

Good Luck1

Edit to add: I see that you have not yet posted your problem up on the AUSJEEPOFFROAD Forum......there may be members near to you who can assist and even help you out with spare MAP sensors, ECM etc.
I have always received good advice there as there are lots of owners of our old Export 2.5 CRDs!

_________________
2002 Export CRD