WWDiesel's suggestion is probably spot on for the oil leak. There isn't much else on the drivers side that can leak onto the bell housing.

Regarding the coolant on the passenger side, there are a few more options depending on where it is actually leaking onto. If it is also near the bell housing then the freeze plugs are probably still to blame. If it is on the firewall, motor mount or inner frame leaking back toward the transmission it is probably a leak on the coolant reservoir. Check all the hose connections as well as the fluid level sensor on the bottom. If it is toward the front of the motor running down the side, and starts higher up on the motor, it is probably the thermostat. Make sure your water pump isn't leaking which should be easy to see from the bottom side. It will leak in the same place as the thermostat but will be easy to spot especially when running. Finally, ensure the connections on the oil cooler aren't leaking. It is directly behind the water pump, below the turbo, on the side of the motor and can be a little tougher to see. Also, make sure the connections for the bypass line that came with the EGR delete kit are sealed up well.

Have you tried putting the UV dye in the coolant and using a UV light to pinpoint the leak location?
And on the EGR delete, did you totally remove all the EGR parts including the EGR cooler and all associated hoses?
There is a freeze plug on the rear of the head. If it leaks it will run down on the bellhousing.

I hope it's not the freeze plugs

https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Ce ... B002M4E0VC
& most all of the big box parts stores incuding NAPA carry UV cooling system die.

I did also pressurize the coolant system to mimic the coolant leak. It held pressure and didn't leak. After I drive it for 5 minutes then bring it into the garage and look under it then I see it running down the bell housing and onto the oil filter.

I agree with flash and papa indigo.
If not losing pressure don't see how it could be leaking visually. But if it is leaking, heater hoses and heater core are likely culprit.
Maybe the Y adapter that you replaced as part of the weeks kit that deleted the tube across front of engine from egr or loose clamps on the metal portion of run to heater core the portion that is bolted to valve cover.. Of course if you had a head gasket leak that could raise the pressure in coolant system only when running engine but you just replaced the head gasket so if a similar situation it would have to be cracked head or other coolant passage.

Have you done the quick test for pressure in coolant bottle by first opening the radiator cap on cold engine then replacing it and starti and run engine about 60 seconds and then recheck for pressure in coolant bottle by removing cap again ?

Pretty pic but hope you didn't put the head on over the ARP studs, that would really be a booger !!