My jeep recently killed at a red light and refused to start again. It was running fine without any issues.
There are no codes present. It was very cold at the time around -10F so I went ahead and replaced the fuel filter. I bled it out and replaced my under the hood lift pump as well, it was not working. (this might not have been working for a while)
Now when I crank the key its does nothing but cranks for a few seconds and then acts like it wants to run, it fires poorly on the verge of running properly but not enough to keep going without the starter.
I bled the 4th injector thinking I may still have air in the lines but it made no difference.

I did some reading on here but I am not sure what I should start with. Kind of hard when there aren't any codes present.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Well that's no fun! I'll start with a few questions and maybe we can figure it out. (by we I'm referring to everyone here, help!)

1. How cold is it when you're trying to start it now? and/or is it plugged in if it's really cold?
2. What kind of glowplugs are in it, if you know?
3. How many miles do you have on it, and when was the timing belt last changed?
4. Roughly where are you located (on the off chance someone who is familiar with these is nearby)
5. Have you checked all the fuses? (seems unlikely, but let's cover our bases)
6. Does it have the updated fuel head and is the heater element disconnected? (common air leak location)

My thoughts:
1. The crank position sensor is known to fail suddenly like the way it shut down, but usually will either not fire at all or will work fine once it cools off.
2. It didn't get something other than diesel in it by chance? (water or gasoline?)
3. You said it has no codes, can you see how much injection pressure it's building while cranking? (I'm not sure what's normal...)
4. There are some grounds you could check, though if it's firing at all that seems unlikely...
5. Mine came with 7v Etecno glow plugs and absolutely hated starting below about 40F (much like me). I swapped to 5v Bosch and she fires right up in 20F weather like it was 70F, though I do try to be easy on her and plug in or park in the garage below 30ish. If somehow your glowplugs have stopped working, that could be related?

Hope It's nothing too serious!

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2005 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD 4x4 278k

1. Tried started initially around -10F, tried again the other day at 40F. Same results. Its always plugged in.
2. They are steel, not sure if 7v or 5v. All I know is that they are awful and really don't do much, plugging it in solves the cold start problems.
3. It has about 165k on it, timing belt was done at 130k in 2013, I partially pulled the timing cover and I could see the belt moving the cam gears fine, belt seems to be in good shape yet.
4. I am located in Minneapolis MN.
5. I have not yet checked the fuses, once it gets warm out again I will take a look. The truck is sitting outside, I have a heated garage but need help to push it in.
6. I believe that the previous owner took care of all of this. I bled the fuel filter housing and I get a nice constant fuel flow without any air.

1. I was thinking the crank position sensor as well but as you said the symptoms don't full line up.
2. I put in some Diesel 911 as a precaution a few weeks prior to the issue, I put some from the same bottle into another vehicle and that one is still running fine.
3. I will have to look into how to pull up the injection pressure, I am a VW/Audi guy and I can probably use my rosstech cable to do that.

Thanks.

The best option for starting the CRD engine - after you solve your immediate problem - is to install a diesel fired engine coolant heater. They are far more powerful than the block heater and you can actually use them to pre-heat your engine. Best of all you do not require an electrical outlet... the electronics are powered by the battery and the heat comes from burning diesel fuel or kerosene. You can do an end-run around the nagging problem of poor performance from glow plugs because the engine will get so warm that they glow plugs simply will not be required.

Sasquatch manufactures an upgrade battery tray that fits the older generation Webasto TSL17, (A.K.A. the Thermo Top C), heater underneath the battery. The Webasto heaters are the most common engine coolant heaters in the industry and I recommend them because parts are relatively easy to find. I am uncertain if this battery tray will fit the new heater... you will have to ask Sasquatch parts directly to find out.

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... -2-8l-crd/

https://www.vmacs.net/products/webasto- ... thermo-top (Older Generation Heater)

https://www.webasto-comfort.com/fileadm ... eet_EN.pdf (Newer Generation Heater).

Resurrecting this old thread.

I still have not been able to get my jeep to start. I have recently replaced the crank position sensor and that did not help.

I also bled the fuel system again, fuel head and injector number 4. I do not seem have any air stuck anywhere.

At this time I only get one error code which is P0304 and I do not believe it is related to the non start condition.

I really wish this vehicle would provide some sort of code to push me down another direction of troubleshooting.

Need a little more info.
You say it does not start. So does the engine spin over ok when you turn the key to start/crank position, you did not say?
If it does not spin over when you turn the key to start/crank, it is a whole different set of checks.

If the engine spins over ok when you turn the key to the start/crank position but does not start, that is a different set of checks.
Do you have any red lights on the dash like the security warning lamp staying on as that can prevent starting.

Got to figure out why it is not getting fuel, is it due to a fuel (pressure, starvation, air in fuel) related problem or an electrical problem, wiring, sensor etc...; then you can narrow in your testing and troubleshooting.
There is a host of things to check and rule out depending on what is taking place...

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

The code you're seeing IS most likely the reason it won't start. From having many of them apart I fear that you have either failed rockers or a dropped valve that smashed the #4 injector (or other cylinder as I've found those codes inaccurate). I would start by pulling #4 injector, then #3 and so on. If one of them has a damaged tip you know that you need another engine unless you have the tools to pull off a sleeve and piston swap. But then, you'll find that you can't get the old style pistons and rings (unless you go with used), so it gets expensive fast. If it's just rockers then replace the exhaust valves also.
These tunnel blocks =massive labor to replace a cylinder.
I hope i'm wrong

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I messed up the code I have is P0403 not 304.

When I turn the key the engine cranks and cranks for about 10 seconds then it starts sputtering and almost runs on its own. It feels likes its getting fuel but maybe not enough or not high enough pressure.

I do not have any weird dash lights. It has an EGR delete so that code I am seeing might not matter. The head was replaced with used one and fully rebuilt back in 2013. The original developed a crack.

Another quick update. I figured out how to monitor the fuel pressure with torque pro. While cranking and sputtering the fuel pressure gets as high as 10 to 11k.

With the fuel pressure solenoid unplugged I am getting about 750 psi average while cranking.

I was reading here that I should be getting 870 to 1450 psi:

https://oregonfuelinjection.com/content ... nostic.pdf

Does this seems like my fuel pressure solenoid may be bad?

I remember 7-8 years ago there was a guy with the same symptoms he's jeep shut down and he replaced pretty much everything including cp3 pump. and we did suggest to him to cap injectors one at a time to see where he is losing fuel pressure but he kept replacing parts. so I say start capping injectors and see where you are losing fuel pressure. btw mountain man did mention this earlier

You could try unpluging the fuel return line for each injector one at a time and spin the engine over and see if any of them is returning an abnormally large amount of fuel.
Capping the injectors supply line one at a time like some others have suggested will also tell you if you have a bad injector that is dumping excess fuel either into the engine, or through the return system.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I've never seen a bad solenoid, but if that's what the troubleshooting guide says, then grab a complete rail off of ebay if possible, as they're handy anyhow. I've got an extra I'd sell.
I like WW's idea, as they barely move any diesel while cranking, so it's not a big mess, unless that shows you a problem. But, I would expect an injector code.
Hmm, what's your battery voltage?

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Thanks guys. I ordered a set of caps and I will try to isolate the injectors one at a time and make note of the rail pressure while cranking.

Here are my rail pressure results with each supply port capped off:

All readings were pretty close to each other, pressure would climb if the battery was fully charged.

1. 9721
2. 9971
3. 10041
4. 9019

Since I didn't see any glaring issues with my test I am not sure what to test next.

I am thinking of pulling all 4 injectors and getting them tested.

Welcome to the club!
In the past couple of weeks I have replaced the CP3 on mine & it didnt help.
It would start with starter fluid most times.
Replaced the body of #1 injector (used the original tip) & it starts easy.
Still cant run it hard or it cuts out.
Previously it would get to 30mph if I was lucky & used very light throttle.
It was smoking like a steam train.
When I get a chance will replace the other injector bodies.
It looks like there was a lot of fuel bypassing in the top of the injector.
Have a look at Capitan Dean's 'Clicking & Clanking' thread.

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Australian KJ CRD 2006

Thanks, do you have a link to that thread? I was unable to find it with search.
This:> viewtopic.php?f=3&t=87478

Thanks, I have been reading through the thread. I hope I don't have the same issues as my head was professionally rebuilt back in 2013.

Once I get the injectors out Ill put a camera scope into the cylinders to inspect.

Resurrecting this old thread.

Still can't get this darn thing to run.

Here is what I have done since:

Pulled the injectors and had them tested by a diesel shop. I was told that they are all fine and I got a print out report.

Tested compression on all cylinders, compression is in range in all cylinders with number 3 being on the lower end of that range.

Bought a used fuel rail, reinstalled everything and bled out all of the lines one by one, confirmed that diesel is making it to each injector. Still will not start with zero codes. Fuel rail pressure peaks around 10k while starting.

Any clue of what to check next? New ECU?