Time to revive this thread I have finally got some fires put out and have some cooler weather at least for this time of year to look deeper into this jeep and do whatever I need to to get it running again. Please see the first post for the initial history and it is a 2005 model.
Yesterday I hooked up fully charged good battery and read codes and looked at most of the wiring and sensors. I found the connector to coolant reservoir tank was disconnected and had gotten up against the exhaust manifold shield and deformed the end so I swapped it with one from salvage jeep . This took care of the P0177 low coolant circuit input code. When I reread the codes that code and the P1265 were the only ones that showed up. I know that code is number 3 glow plug circuit low. The glow plugs have been replaced long ago with the etecno steel 7volt ones that are also known to fail fairly often, so I am not particularly worried about that code and will deal with it later.
The other codes listed initially
P0299 underboost
P0087 low fuel rail pressure
P0698 reference voltage low
P0093 large fuel system leak
These were cleared soon after the engine quit and did not return when I rechecked the codes after repairing the connector and a bare wire that went to the thermostat sensor that had gotten against the valve cover and either partially melted or rubbed to bare wire it looked like a little of both.
Still no start. I did Crank position sensor a few thousand miles ago and only a couple of months before this happened . I also cracked timing belt cover and it appears to have normal tension but I cannot say it hasn't jumped some teeth. I also checked current draw with meter and it was about 20 ma which I think is acceptable.
I checked the injectors with a noid light and I get no signal.
My plan now is to check as much of the rest of the wiring as I can but assuming I don't find anything else I have a few options in no particular order:
1. Replace crankshaft position sensor again and see what happens.
2. Replace cam sensor and see what happens
3. Check fuel return on injectors
4. Remove injectors and observe for abnormalities get an idea of compression
5. Verify the correct timing by pins
6. Swap out the ECM with another I have for this vehicle now that no potentially dangerous voltage draw is present
I guess I am still worried that there could be a dropped valve but I don't see how that would explain the absence of signal on the noid light. I also have a hard time believing that the crank sensor went out so soon. I guess the short could have caused a lot of the codes and they may have been there prior to the incident because I noticed the thermostat reading going haywire a couple times prior to that trip causing a check engine light but the check engine light went off on its on. I did wiggle the wiring to thermostat sensor then and the CEL didn't return so I thought at the time the sensor plug had too much tension on it and I relieved it.
Questions to follow in next post shortly. Sorry to be so long winded or typed