went on hunting trip 2200 miles round trip. Halfway home going 70 on interstate engine may have had a mild pop sound and then sputtered and never ran again. this engine had arp head gasket (it was leaking) rockers (no valves replaced) timing belt kit including water pump about 6,000 miles ago and had about !88,000 on it when this occurred also had other mods main one that could be pertinent is a kennedy lift pump. It had given a thermostat voltage low circuit code prior but i thought i had found a wiring short and corrected this prior to the trip. I also had to put a stud in to replace the timing belt tensioner bolt due to helicoil striping out. When it happened I thought maybe timing belt lost tension and wrecked rockers etc. I also changed the crank position sensor recently about 2k miles ago. EGR deleted. GDE hot tune over 70k miles.

The engine turns over freely. There are no metallic sounds. I get the following codes now when I clear then turn over engine a few seconds.
P0299 underboost
P0087 low fuel rail pressure
P0698 reference voltage low
P0117coolant circuit low input
P0093large fuel system leak
P1275 or 65 can't remember for sure but air metering problem or mismatch

I had a secondary 2 micron filter I changed it and checked fuel flow with key on to energize the kennedy pump and it filled a quart jar in about 10 seconds or less so I believe adequate fuel is making it to pump. There ar no leaks of any fluids under the jeep. I can visually see the cam turning in the oil filler tube so though the timing could have jumped the belt is still on. I don't have a noid light but plan to order one . I charged the battery fully but there still may be a drain in the system because overnight it took more charge to fully charge again about an hour at 6 amps.

I guess it could be the fuel pump but somehow I don't think so.

At this point I have several thoughts.
verify that timing is correct by pins etc
possibly do fuel return test
get noid light to check injector circuit
Look at whole wiring harness carefully.
change cps sensor
What suggestions or observations do others have on other possibilities or order of further evaluation ?
I get the impression it may be ECU or electrical short but just an impression.
Engine was running perfectly the whole 1500 miles till this happened. Check engine light only came on after engine quit few seconds later while still coasting.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Well when I lost a timing belt at highway speeds it was loud. I did try to crank the engine and as soon as I heard the "grind" stopped. So you are in good shape that you don't hear any noise. With all those codes I would look for a major short and check all the fuses, the main one that powers parts the ECM.

_________________
Purchased 2006 LIberty CRD 82K 01/16
SS Cat Back Exhaust, Full EGR Delete,Provent, Michelin 245/70 R16 AT/2
Stock Tune, Serpentine Belt Service,160 Amp Alternator
10/17 96K, New Head, Injectors, ARP Studs, HDS T-Stat
04/18 99K, New Reman Trans
09/18 104K, Lift Pump
01/19 106K, OME Lift, Eaton TruTrac LSD in new rebuilt diff

thanks for reply thats what i think too but i won't be able to do anything further till next week. I also have a spare ecu programmed for it but don't want to change it out yet until i check harness further to avoid harming it if that was problem

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

I had same thing happen, 60mph, slight noise, died, engine cranked freely, no start, etc,
It had dropped exhaust valve and imbedded in piston so no noise when cranking, dealership look at for two weeks with no answer, I took it home and pulled injectors and could tell right away #4 had no compression, pull head and voila’

_________________
06 CRD Limited/#2
Full OME suspension/Sway Bar Disconnects
ARB Bumper/ LEDs
SS Cat Back
Warn 8000
KC HID Daylighters (2)
Sasquatch EGR delete kit
ARP stud kit
Safari Snorkel
Suncoast TC
Alpine/ JL Audio
Clifford Remote Start
Netto Terra Grapplers 265/75/16
GDE Hot
Lift Pump
Sasquatch Battery Kit

When you crank the engine, does it sound like it always has, or does it sound odd, like it speeds up at one point in cranking over? Or does it sound like there is no compression at all?

A dead cylinder, compression wise, should make an obvious different sound, as it will have no resistance like the others. Weird thing though, if it were a single cylinder dropping via a valve head or keeper dropping, the other 3 should still run or at least be trying to run.

You haven't clearly specified, but my impression was that all 4 cylinders dropped 100% at the same instant, and ever since have not even attempted to run.
If the engine sounds like it always has when cranking, with no dead cylinders, it most likely is electrical and from the DTCs is fuel related. Check the loom connectors at the Fuel Quantity Solenoid behind the CP3. Make sure it is fully attached and that the pins are both fully engaged and haven't slipped back.
If no issue is found there, do the same to the Fuel Pressure Solenoid at the rear of the fuel rail. It sounds mostly like the FPS, but either one can do it.
If you find nothing amiss with the wiring, do a return check at the rear of the fuel rail. Pull off the blue hose from the rail, and plug the hose.
Have someone crank it for 1-2 seconds. If ANY fuel comes out from the rail bib, the FPS is not working.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

I feel your pain response----

last week my newly assembled crd --700 miles since assembly--
ran rough for 5 seconds then abrupt stall with exhaust steam
coolant down 2 liters and funky lube

so--I have been experimenting with head studs and head bolts of several varieties--taking them to failure with new digital torque wrench
using failed head off parts crd motor--very impressed with todays results using ajusa head bolts built for nissan engines of up to 5.6 liters

have not removed head from engine --this soon

when I torqued head 8 weeks ago using factory bolts and ering gasket system I was not at all pleased --if my crd event is a head lift failure--I will use torque settings rather than angular rotation end point for repair method

the vm 428 is precision construction--but no factory support and declining
replacement resources ensures that we--the diminishing brotherhood of true believers--will persist in resuscitation efforts beyond reasonable expectation

TKB4:

Regarding "P0117 coolant circuit low input"; CHECK THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL.

I am likely wrong, but I believe the computer is telling you that the coolant flow is too low.

If I have time today I will try to find out myself.

Regards,

Jeff Bauer

Mine did the same thing a few months back. Here's a link to what I posted:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=88006

Short story, it was sucking air from a faulty (new) fuel filter. However, when added 5 gallons of fuel it started. Replaced the filter and no issues since.

_________________
Marty

'05 CRD, GDE tune(s), JBA stuff, OME, Weeks Stage I & II, "Provent"(custom) +++

P1265 is a glow plug code.

All others point to a electrical or fuel system problem.
Check all your wiring harness connections.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

What year is your CRD?
If a 2006 then the dreaded "Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket" may be damaging the wire harness by pressing it up against the firewall. Remove the bracket and check the harness in that area for damage.
Swap over the ASD relay with an identical one nearby....a failing ASD relay will kill everything.
Do you have the red LED on the left of the cluster ON all the time or flashing at you? This should light up for a few seconds and go out when ignition is ON or there is a problem with SKIS anti theft system.

Check all fuses under the hood and inside the cabin....a "mild pop" sound is often the sound of some wiring circuit shorting out.

_________________
2002 Export CRD

There are no coolant flow sensors, so there is no chance of a code for "coolant flow" or anything related to coolant other than temperature.
If there IS a code for a coolant flow - it is a computer error or a scanner error.

Start with the mechanical checks, I suspect your timing belt has slipped and toasted the rockers. Valves not opening or closing properly will still allow an engine to "sound normal" when cranking, but no air in or out equals no boom.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Low voltage from the sensor can also trip this DTC.
DTC Code P0117 is described as Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Low Input.
The PCM (powertrain control module, ECM / engine control module) has determined the ECT sensor output is reading less than 0.14V or above 284˚ F (140˚ C).

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

In the original post was this comment " I charged the battery fully but there still may be a drain in the system because overnight it took more charge to fully charge again about an hour at 6 amps." Reading the string I wonder if there is a charging system and/or battery problem (ex. short between cells) that could cause delivered voltage while running to drop below what the ECU "likes" which would shut the engine off. There is no "normal" reason for a fully charged battery just sitting overnight to require an additional charge (1 hr. at 6amps) the next morning; that's a heck of a drop for a good battery or a heck of a constant system drain or both.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I agree with papa here^^^^

Find where that current is draining to and there is a good chance you will have found a short or partial short that is stopping the engine from running!

Charge up the battery fully.
Remove one of the battery leads and fit a Multi meter in series with the battery.
Multimeter must be set on AMPS and the Red lead moved to the "AMP" setting...do not start the engine or you will blow the fuse inside the Multi meter!

With doors closed, radio off, lights off etc. check the reading on the Multi meter....should not read above about 30 milli amps ie. 0.030 amps. If the reading is a lot higher than this then pull out and re-insert all fuses one by one....from the PDC box under the hood and from the fuse panel inside the cabin.

If you get a major drop in crrent shown on the meter when pulling a fuse out then there is a problem on that branch of circuitry.

If you have not done so already then down the Jeep KJ Service Manual for your year CRD here....section 8W has the wiring diagrams.

Service Manuals:http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

_________________
2002 Export CRD

O.K... THIS makes more sense to me.

Thank you, WWDiesel!

Just got a chance to look at replies
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions
I also believe it is electrical and briefly I did a homemade weeks kit on this one and zip tied egr into engine compartment so I could leave sensor plugged into it . This could be a place for electrical failure if it is I haven't investigated yet and it may be a while since duck season here ends last weekend in january .

I am considering first either checking timing with pins or removing injectors as suggested to rule out most non electrical problems .
after at least checking fuses and relays etc which i already checked most or all fuses and they were ok.
Another thought I just had was the switch on the steering column that if not functional won't allow it to start. I had to replace that a few years ago on one CRD for a non start but it didn't stop while running. I am sure if i checked with noid light I could rule that one out and I don't believe it caused any check engine lights though i guess if it went out while running it could do this.

to answer some questions.
This is a 2005 CRD.
Its hard to say whether engine sounds normal or not because it usually starts up very quickly. I believe the engine is making compression on at least 2 cylinders when turning it over. It may slow down and speed up a little while cranking but not dramatically.
I have not swapped the ASD relay but I do have another running CRD that I can swap with and will try that probably tomorrow.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

First and probably only thing I can get done today is fully charge battery disconnected from CRD then let sit while working today and check tonight or in am to see if it held all or most of charge and possibly load test.

I did disconnect the ground last week before I left but if positive grounded anywhere in system it would still drain battery. The battery voltage is 12.6 so it isn't terribly drained but that isn't reliable enough.

Next once hook battery back up will check for the red light for skim system and the lightning bolt for throttle pedal assembly and swap ASD and go from there.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

update
The battery was fully charged unhooked last pm left it totally disconnected all night and now only minimal time at less than 2 amps to get FULL reading again so it is not the battery

I am going to put test light from battery positive to vehicle positive with nothing turned on in jeep and remove one fuse / relay at a time and see if I can pinpoint at least what circuit or circuits may be drawing down battery. I will also change out the Relays. Of course with my luck and reality it will probably lead to ECM and the myriad of possibilities that connect to it !

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

A test light is pretty useless for testing the Amps being drawn while everything is switched off.

Get a cheap digital multi meter...you do not need fantastic accuracy so a cheap one will do the trick.

You need to be able to see exactly where the current draw is occurring eg. you may see a total draw of 300 mA which is very bad. You pull out fuse X and the draw drops down by 50 mA so this circuit need tracing but you need to find where the other 250 mA are going to.
So you pull three more fuses out and the total gained adds up to 270 mA which leaves you with 30 mA which is the draw that you expect to get....clock running, radio in idle mode, ECM/BCM/TCM idling along etc.
So you now have 4 circuits to trace one by one.

The point is that you will not pick this up with a Test Light

_________________
2002 Export CRD

Time to revive this thread I have finally got some fires put out and have some cooler weather at least for this time of year to look deeper into this jeep and do whatever I need to to get it running again. Please see the first post for the initial history and it is a 2005 model.

Yesterday I hooked up fully charged good battery and read codes and looked at most of the wiring and sensors. I found the connector to coolant reservoir tank was disconnected and had gotten up against the exhaust manifold shield and deformed the end so I swapped it with one from salvage jeep . This took care of the P0177 low coolant circuit input code. When I reread the codes that code and the P1265 were the only ones that showed up. I know that code is number 3 glow plug circuit low. The glow plugs have been replaced long ago with the etecno steel 7volt ones that are also known to fail fairly often, so I am not particularly worried about that code and will deal with it later.

The other codes listed initially
P0299 underboost
P0087 low fuel rail pressure
P0698 reference voltage low
P0093 large fuel system leak
These were cleared soon after the engine quit and did not return when I rechecked the codes after repairing the connector and a bare wire that went to the thermostat sensor that had gotten against the valve cover and either partially melted or rubbed to bare wire it looked like a little of both.

Still no start. I did Crank position sensor a few thousand miles ago and only a couple of months before this happened . I also cracked timing belt cover and it appears to have normal tension but I cannot say it hasn't jumped some teeth. I also checked current draw with meter and it was about 20 ma which I think is acceptable.
I checked the injectors with a noid light and I get no signal.
My plan now is to check as much of the rest of the wiring as I can but assuming I don't find anything else I have a few options in no particular order:

1. Replace crankshaft position sensor again and see what happens.
2. Replace cam sensor and see what happens
3. Check fuel return on injectors
4. Remove injectors and observe for abnormalities get an idea of compression
5. Verify the correct timing by pins
6. Swap out the ECM with another I have for this vehicle now that no potentially dangerous voltage draw is present


I guess I am still worried that there could be a dropped valve but I don't see how that would explain the absence of signal on the noid light. I also have a hard time believing that the crank sensor went out so soon. I guess the short could have caused a lot of the codes and they may have been there prior to the incident because I noticed the thermostat reading going haywire a couple times prior to that trip causing a check engine light but the check engine light went off on its on. I did wiggle the wiring to thermostat sensor then and the CEL didn't return so I thought at the time the sensor plug had too much tension on it and I relieved it.

Questions to follow in next post shortly. Sorry to be so long winded or typed

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden