Welcome, I come bearing gifts

My66dodge · **Posted:** Fri Jan 11, 2019 9:47 am

My name is josh Szelmeczka and I am a profesional diesel mechanic and performance specialist, last year in my Dyno truck an 08 6.7 cummins, I did 550whp, stock turbo, stock pump, stock injectors. This year I am at over 600whp and still running the stock class. I do a lot with the liberty crd, heck I have 5 in the family. I picked 12 and fixed and flipped them this year, so you could say I know them well. I used my profesional resources and got ahold of my vendors to make more for the kj crd, so here is what is up coming and I will let y'all know when they are ready for the market. First I got ahold of e body parts and got a real functional SRT style hood coming into production, heck I ordered the first three for mine. Not far from me is diamond eye exhaust and they are developing a 3in turbo back exhaust for the kj crd, also they will make stainless boost tubes for them. They already used one of my rigs to prototype and as soon as I get them another they will be ready for market so it is coming soon, I am excited as the 3in mandrel bent sounds great with the glass pack they made, it performs awsome, they finished it off with a 4in stainless tip. I got ahold of my guys at Industrial injection and they are working on upgrading the stock gt2056 with a 3G nozzle ring and electronic actuator like the 1756, and a 60mm compressor side. I got with the guys at scan gauge and they are having me data log for them so they can write the coding for the scan gauge 2 to work with the kj crd, I will make sure they have MAF data avalibul. I am working on a radiator upgrade, it's in the works I just need more time. My personal kj is an 06 silver limited that was owned by a previous member in the Seattle area, I can tell by the vm badge on the side. I ceramic coated the exhaust manifold and outfitted the turbo with a ptp turbo blanket, I have a ome lift and arb bumper for it.

http://www.e-bodyparts.com/Car-Hoods/Pr ... H-98DT.htm

My66dodge · **Posted:** Fri Jan 11, 2019 10:05 am

I almost forgot to include these I found

Poly bushings for the kj, it makes the alignment just that much better when it's lifted cause the soft rubber ones put the caster more negative and the wheel closer to the pinch weld but the poly bushings correct this

https://www.superpro.com.au/find/superp ... -999501263

https://www.escape4x4.eu/bushing-set-je ... 8-off-road

Here is the transmission pan upgrade that will work with the factory skid plate, if you order an ats transmission upgrade you must use this instead of their pan if you want to use the factory skids

https://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_11078.php

Finally here is a winch mount to fit a winch behind the stock kj bumper with no mods required

https://jeepmania.eu/en/winch-mount-pla ... ee-kj.html

APC9199 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 11, 2019 3:30 pm

Hmm, looks like some cool stuff!

When you say "functional" SRT style hood, what exactly do you mean? Does the vent actually allow air flow and does this need to be held closed with hood pins instead of gas shocks like most composite hoods? I like the look (I'm vain, what can I say?) but I don't think it provides many benefits outside of that. If I had more money than I knew what to do with I would be all over it.

Exhaust mods are few and far between for the CRD KJ. Having a bolt-in option from a seller on LostJeeps would be awesome, especially if it were something mild that wouldn't make the CRD sound like a freakin' rice burner.

Do you have someone who is able to perform the necessary programming to control an electronically actuated turbo? I don't know anything about how that works, but it can't possibly be plug and play with the ECU, right? That sounds like a huge undertaking. I would love to see the v-clamp coupling eliminated from the exhaust and replaced with a gasketed flanged connection. The v-clamp has leaked exhaust fumes since the day I bought my CRD and I cannot find a way to seal it permanently, including copious amounts of high temp silicone.

The image for those poly bushings looks funny to me. Maybe they just used a "close enough" image to represent where they go? I looked high and low for poly bushings when I redid the entire underside of my Jeep, and couldn't anyone who made them.

That winch mount is interesting. Might come in handy for us non-steel bumper guys.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:25 pm

That hood looks useless.
How does it direct air into the air filter and turbo?

Personally, I’d rather have have the renegade style flat hood and grille.

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

APC9199 wrote:

That winch mount is interesting. Might come in handy for us non-steel bumper guys.

This is the one thing that actually caught my eye; I do like the idea of a hidden winch mount. Pricing isn't awful at €207 (about US$237 at today's rates), but shipping to North America could be a killer. 6mm steel is just under 0.25", but is close enough as to be comparable.

Hood: don't care. Not functional, so no interest.

Poly bushings: ehh. On the fence about these. I see the benefits, but unless you're wheeling your KJ daily they're likely to just be a source of annoying squeaks.

Tranny pan: again, I see the benefits, but if it won't clear aftermarket skid plates (most of which are designed around the factory pan), it's only quasi-useful.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:58 pm

The hood is functional!!! It is a two layer fiberglass and is hollow in the middle so you cut the opening where you want the air to flow into the engine bay at, it has the proper inserts so it will bolt on like th stock hood, I talked extensively with the guys who make it, heck it took calling for them to even know they had the prototype made up, they said it will be ready this year and should be less than 600 so sweet. As for the tuning for the turbo I will have Keith do that, when I finally tune my wife's 06 kj crd I already had him make an exhaust brake function. As for the exhaust and stainless boost tubes instead of the hoses you can get them directly from diamond eye exhaust when they are ready, I will let everyone know when they are ready. I have noticed performance gains from the 3in turbo back vs the stock 2.5in. It not only sounds great but it seems to pull harder. I had to have them make a glass pack muffler as it was unbearably loud with drone but the muffler makes it sound sweet. My race truck has a 5in turbo back with no muffler so I am use to loud but without the muffler it was too loud

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 1:19 am

flash7210 wrote:

That hood looks useless.
How does it direct air into the air filter and turbo?

Personally, I’d rather have have the renegade style flat hood and grille.

I think the hood looks nice, I'm a fan of aggressive looks, but have to agree with Flash as far as function.

Even if it could be made properly functional to bring cold air in, My primary need is to get hot air out. Particularly at the rear of the engine. Air movement across the top of the engine is hugely important to help fuel and electronic elements live long happy lives. I hate running the engine without the cover (noise) but if I don't, it gets hot enough to melt the insulation of the wires in the loom. I've already had to bypass some of the sensor and solenoid wires in this section that got melted together. The others I'm leaving as-is until they present their own problem.
This is happening not because there isn't enough air coming in, but that their isn't enough flow out, for the hot air at the top/rear of the engine to leave before allowing heat soak when towing/etc. Particularly on the exhaust side with unwrapped turbine/pipe. The hot air wants to go up rather than down, where most of the cooler air coming through the radiator flows. Giving that air a place to go (Like GM Cowl Induction shape) would be far more helpful. Only use it to vent heat rather than a cold air intake. :2cents:

I do like the exhaust options, and would love to see some numbers on the turbo options, and what diesel_guy86 can do with them.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 8:36 am

My plan is to place the cut out in the middle of mine in a way so that it is additional cooling for the engine, if you want more cooling than this is the radiator upgrade I am toying with

https://www.cfrperformance.com/CFR_EVOL ... 010-x3.htm

If a hot engine bay is your issue then ceramic coat your exhaust manifold as I did, it keeps the engine bay cooler and helps the turbo to be more efficient, a turbo blanket also helps the cause greatly in both of these Areas

The towing heat issue is something I am well aware of, we always tow the jeeps we flip with my dads 06 kj crd, we have towed many of them over snowqualimie pass from Seattle and from Portland, we get a uhaul tow dolly to save on weight. His has the hot solutions thermostat upgrade and a new fan clutch and its tuned and deleted. On the hill by ellensburg we have to slow to 45 as not to overheat. I am looking forward to the radiator upgrade and adding a derale remote oil and trans cooler to it to keep on trucking. I reached out to mishimoto and they are considering a build, I also asker them for an intercooler upgrade, otherwise I might go water to air. Consequently the 06 power wagon also hates that same hill, we once used a car hauler and did it with that but same issue, sub par radiator, so we upgraded the truck to a 3 core radiator and the heat is under control.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:36 pm

My66dodge wrote:

I almost forgot to include these I found

Poly bushings for the kj, it makes the alignment just that much better when it's lifted cause the soft rubber ones put the caster more negative and the wheel closer to the pinch weld but the poly bushings correct this

https://www.superpro.com.au/find/superp ... -999501263

https://www.escape4x4.eu/bushing-set-je ... 8-off-road

Here is the transmission pan upgrade that will work with the factory skid plate, if you order an ats transmission upgrade you must use this instead of their pan if you want to use the factory skids

https://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_11078.php

Finally here is a winch mount to fit a winch behind the stock kj bumper with no mods required

https://jeepmania.eu/en/winch-mount-pla ... ee-kj.html

Thanks for the pan link. So you've verified that the 1" deeper pan fits with stock skids? I've been wondering about those for years. Since my upgrade to 245/75's my transmission is getting too warm on the long slow offroad grades...

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:59 pm

My66dodge wrote:

My plan is to place the cut out in the middle of mine in a way so that it is additional cooling for the engine, if you want more cooling than this is the radiator upgrade I am toying with

https://www.cfrperformance.com/CFR_EVOL ... 010-x3.htm

If a hot engine bay is your issue then ceramic coat your exhaust manifold as I did, it keeps the engine bay cooler and helps the turbo to be more efficient, a turbo blanket also helps the cause greatly in both of these Areas

The towing heat issue is something I am well aware of, we always tow the jeeps we flip with my dads 06 kj crd, we have towed many of them over snowqualimie pass from Seattle and from Portland, we get a uhaul tow dolly to save on weight. His has the hot solutions thermostat upgrade and a new fan clutch and its tuned and deleted. On the hill by ellensburg we have to slow to 45 as not to overheat. I am looking forward to the radiator upgrade and adding a derale remote oil and trans cooler to it to keep on trucking. I reached out to mishimoto and they are considering a build, I also asker them for an intercooler upgrade, otherwise I might go water to air. Consequently the 06 power wagon also hates that same hill, we once used a car hauler and did it with that but same issue, sub par radiator, so we upgraded the truck to a 3 core radiator and the heat is under control.

That's in the plans. I have a number of these little upgrades I'm trying to line up to do about 3 years out when I expect to do the next timing belt. Hope these guys are still around and we have a good amount of feedback by then. :SOMBRERO:

I know Mishimoto makes radiators for Gassers but don't know about the CRD's. I've heard good things about the Nissins that IDParts carries, but don't have any personal experience with them. Frankly, I like the way that Mass_Hole went. It's a top shelf product, and may well cool better and survive higher charge pressures than the $650 stock one.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 2:35 pm

For the ultimate in trans cooling use a remote mount with a fan, I run a bd double stacked in the race truck and that thing never gets above 180, when I get the time I plan to mount this behind the t case for transmission cooling, no matter how slow you are going it wont overheat

http://derale.com/products/fluid-cooler ... 740-detail

For the ceramic coating I used these guys, they are in my state and the coating snide and out plus shipping and tax was 180.00 for the manifold, the ptp turbo blanket was 165. The down side to the coating and blanket is that it takes longer to cook food under the hood, I like to wrap food in tin foil and place it on top of the engine, and in an hour and a half it's nice and cooked... With the coating and turbo blanket it doesn't work so well since it doesn't get nearly as hot under the hood:(

https://www.performancecoatings.com/

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:19 pm

A few folks are already running GTB2056 turbine, compressor(some upgraded to 60mm) and GTB vanes in the stock housing.

How exactly will the jeep be programmed to run the proper pwm frequency to run the electronic actuator? Right now the actuator is operated at a 152.6 hz and the Mercedes Hella actuators want 140 hz. As far as i know the Audi/VW/BMW actuators are controlled off of the can-bus.

I know its possible since GDE did it, but just curious how thats gunna happen.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 6:15 pm

I started building these turbos over a year ago. Real curious what industrial will charge, i only charge $800 for new turbine, gtb vanes, upgraded bearings, and 42mm x 60mm billet compressor wheel.

Also not all gtb vanes are the same, nor are they a “drop in” since they were designed to be in the center housing, vs in the turbine housing like these are.

AND not all gtb turbines are the same, and most wont work with the heat shield.

These are about to be old news anyways, as im going to be releasing a BB version soon.

GDE should already have a tune wrote, since they did one for one of my customers last year.

The 3” exhaust, turbo back, or down pipe back? Factory vband is 2.25”, ive converted one to true 3” vband at the turbo, and it wasnt a simple “buy this adapter” deal to make it happen.

And if industrial insists that 15% is all the stock injectors can be honed to, i had mine done to 30% and didnt have ANY issues.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 9:42 pm

The 3in is turbo back, they machine a new flange to weld to their exhaust cause it took longer than usual for them to prototype my rig. I used my dads rig for them to take measurements so he got the free exhaust out of it. I am dropping of the last one for fitment next week or so, so they can make final adjustments to the boost tubes, they will go from the turbo to the cooler and from the cooler to the weeks intake so it will eliminate the weeks elbow. This wil make for less turbo lag and it wil make my water methanol install easier. I have the snow mpg max kit picked out so I can also get EGT and boost from the readout. I am working now on making a custom gasped pod for the center of the dash above the vents too hold three gauges but i may not use it when I get done helping scan gauge it getting the coding they need, cause I can just get one of those. I use industrial injection for all my turbo needs and if i do upgraded injectors on anything but a HEUI, they rock at what they do but I don't plan to hone my injectors as it effects spray pattern, I have a local guy who is a bosch rebuilder and I have him looking for a different nozzle so I retain good spray. I want to upgrade my turbo for more power but also better mpg... More fuel = more power. more air = more power and more mpg. Water meth = more power, more mpg, and cleaner engine.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2019 10:46 pm

More air doesnt always mean more power, once past the clean 18:1afr, any excess boost will start killing efficiency since the engine has to work harder to compress the extra air. You will still have to run a boost gauge if you plan on running more than 21psi of boost, you can run a 4bar tmap and scale it, but no matter what the highest psi the obd will output is 21psi.

Not trying to be rude, but your a good year or 2 behind. We’ve already tuned and tweaked the turbo and tune, the silicone boost hoses havent been a problem, or the radiator. If you want to be useful, have an all aluminum intercooler made. The hot side plastic tank is known for cracking, and theres no good fix.

There are guys running 200% over nozzles on duramax’s with no haze at idle. Nozzle spray pattern is based on the piston bowl design/size, hopefully you get lucky, but an engine that uses a nozzle bigger than ours probably also has a bigger bowl. This is actually worse since the spray will be hitting the face of the piston instead of staying in the bowl. I was up to 270hp with my injectors and my cold starts were better than stock.

My turbo picked up airflow higher in the revs and better mpg's on the stock tune. Ive seen work done by other companies and its really apperent they are only worried about wheel sizes or following the trend. Turbos share alot of commonalities with gas turbines and as such benefit from alot of practices used on gt’s. Ever hear of vena contracta? Boundary layers? Flow seperation? Internal polishing of the compressor housing, square cuts/edges create these phenomenon and eat up efficiency. Yet companies do it because it looks cool, or dont know any better.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun Jan 13, 2019 1:24 am

Understood, I have built twin turbo trucks before so I know the gains from honing the injectors but you should talk to Keith or a someone at a Bosch certified rebuild center about the problems with honing, back when diesel performance was just getting rolling and everyone was selling honed injectors for the 5.9 12v I was learning lots from a friend of mine who worked for cummins as an engineer developing the 24v cummins and he started the first performance 24v company, blue chip performance. He was showing me the inside of the nozzle and the way it changed by just honing it. For the old 12v I never used honed injectors I just used one with more holes designed for more fuel and made cleaner power. I don't make a bit of black smoke from my Dyno truck and achieve over 600whp with stock fueling, the problem as I was saying is many guys start attacking the fuel side way too early, for efficiency use the biggest exhaust as soon as you can, make the best flowing intake to the turbo and you can always fit a bigger turbo, remember the engine is an air pump. The first thing I sell the 7.3 super duty guys for instance is a gtp38r with wicked wheel and, 4 in exhaust and chip, it takes a lot of building before you really need the extra fueling from my experiences.

For the radiator what have you guys found cause I haven't seen any radiator upgrades come out? I run into heat issues on dads crd when towing around 6k lbs up a mountain pass just out side of Ellensburg, it's not a nice one. Gotta drop her down to 45mph, thus the radiator upgrade needed, also an oil cooler will help as oil is responsible for 20% of an engines cooling.

The problem with the silicone tubes as I run is they balloon up and shrink down depending on boost and this leads to lag to some degree, when the pipes come out you will see, plus it gives a good place to mount the water meth nozzles, and a 2.5 gallon tank fits nicely inside, I will send pics when I am all finished. As for now I have a lot of irons in the fire so I try to get a fire lit for vendors to do the work. Currently I am also working on my factory original 78d100 diesel adding a turbo and upgrading the injectors and pump and finding arp head studs, industrial will supply the turbo. I also have 4 kj crd's to get fixed and ready to sell in the spring (not my personal ones) so I have more play money with. Also I am in the process of starting my own shop at the same time.

If you really want a simple intercooler upgrade go to frozenboost and pick up a water to air, that was my plan then you have better flow for more hp and mpg and less pressure drop and a cooler intake charge. I attack diesel performance different than many guys, heck it's easy to drop in bigger injectors and put a tune in it but that's where I steal customers as the first thing I do is attack airflow, better hp, better mpg, and lower EGT, I build a lot of trucks for contractors and guys who use them hard. The Dyno truck works mon-sat pulling a 20k trailer for my friends business (it's a co partnership, he sponsors me) I have a 97 obs with stock injectors that pulls a 45k trailer regular and no intercooler yet (it's in the works) but he does it safely without having to lift his foot often, and he is getting 19mpg on 19.5 14 ply tires thanks to the right upgrades. So I do things a little different than most.

For the boost gauge I plan to use the snow mpg max controller, like I have done so many times. I wire it to always be on and wire the switch betweene the controller and the pump so the controller is always on and you can turn the pump on and off, thus you always have a boost gauge and pyro, and it's super clean and hidden, I like to build clean sleepers, nothing to draw attention, that way when it pulls away you won't have seen it coming. I love it when a guy comes to see me and he has a quad gauge pillar and crappy edge liar box, I hate to un screw it up but love the thank you when it's all done.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:12 am

Quote:

The problem with the silicone tubes as I run is they balloon up and shrink down depending on boost and this leads to lag to some degree,

This one is pretty easily solved by replacing the stock (Chinese finger trap) polypropylene woven mesh with Stainless Steel, up-sized, and painted black to look stock. (I like sleepers more than bling)
Once the sleeve ends are anchored, the hoses CAN'T swell, and haven't popped off (since repairing the burst & before the SS sleeve) in spite of some crazy snit I've pulled on them. I'm sure the pipes are great, and look much better than these sleeves, but I'm happy with them, and happy to spend the savings on other stuff.

All this stuff is future upgrades to me, though.

Most all of my driving is 2500 and under, and I'll estimate that 90% is under 2100 rpm.

So, basically, all these HP upgrades are 90% useless until I can get the Diff's re-geared, and that's a lot of tight budgeting ahead this year. (After the upcoming 3rd trans swap.)
Since I've already got good torque from 1700+, I'm attacking diesel performance by getting the rest of the car ready for it first. Suspension, (gotta be enjoyable to drive) gear ratio, lockers, (be able to use the power) Then power, then cooling (since I don't want to address the cooling twice.)

Oh and for gauges, I'm using Auto Meter mechanical gauges, so no matter what's going on, I've got real info immediately, and can tell if the info the ECM thinks it sees, is right. (sensor problem, circuit problem, whatever.)

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:13 am

I have had lots of hotel time on my hands this weekend with nothing better to do... So what happened to your trans? We have 240+ on my wife's original, I have heard stories but haven't seen many failures of the 545 yet, I have a fiew ram hemi's with over 300 I maintain that are original. When I finally need one I will go ATS, if you call they will hook you up with the trans built for these things, they have a 545 that will handle about 600ft lbs and it comes with the upgraded converter for 3600 they quoted me just a month ago. They recommend an aluminum pan to strengthen the case and I told them their deep pan won't fit so I want to use the pml and he said that was ok with it, also he requested it have Keith's trans tune in it. They were trying to make a co pilot box for these with Keith's help and the project got shelved so he said if the trans was tuned by GDE we were good to go. They have a 5yr 500k warranty on their trans, the only requirement is you service it annually. They just sent me a new 68rfe for the Dyno truck cause we just lost reverse in our stage 4, it was a simple phone call and bam for 650 to cover the round trip shipping I had a new trans on my doorstep.

The advantage I have in fixing and flipping these things is I get to pickup goodies along the way, I bought an 05 from the Dalles Oregon that had a loose BCM ground causing all kinds of issues, anyways I stole the 4.10 gears from it and swapped with a set of axles I have so I sold it with 3.73 's and I got a free set of gears and a front e locker out of it, so I have my axles ready for when I finally nut up and buy my JBA 4 in lift, I plan to run 265 75 16 or 265 70 16 on some rubicon wheels I stole from another rig.

I am thinking of re gearing my wife's to 3.55 for better highway mpg, we just pulled 34mpg on the evic all the way to Seattle and back last weekend (17gallons from Kennewick to Seattle plus driving around and back), she is stock height with 245-70-16's and every year before travel season I swap all the fluids, I run 75-140 in the diffs, I know it's overkill but the last thing I want to do is work on her rig, I can cut mine up but she never wants to be without it. The only upgrades I have done for hers is a suncoast converter and GDE Eco trans tune and both weeks kits, and I swapped the stock muffler for a glass pack, I use lots of BG products and do an EPR and injector cleaner from them at every oil change every 5k, I also use liquimoly lm2332. I plan to do the GDE full tq tune in time... I just have too many projects and she ignores the check engine light for now.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:30 am

Airflow is good, but density is what your after. Water-air ic’s are best used for short-duration runs, drag racing sled pulling, stuff like that. Over the road air-air is better, especially when the temperature differential is low, eg a single turbo running in its peak efficiency island. There are published papers on this. Theres too much efficiency loss cooling the water thats cooling the charge air. But sometimes there just isn’t enough room for an air-air, such is the case for the ford 6.7, and my own compound turbo 2.8L build. But ill have almost 500°F charge air to cool.

The wicked wheel is a waste, i mean its an improvement over stock, but they capitalize on “bigger, taller blades are better” because most people dont understand that all it does is put a greater load on the turbine, which increases lag, lowers turbine efficiency, and raises its blade speed ratio. If BIIIG, TALLL blades were really better, wouldnt you see multi-billion dollar aviation companies like GE, Rolls-Royce, using them?

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sun Jan 13, 2019 12:32 pm

How do you plan to make the electric actuator work with the ECU? Do you have someone that can do the tuning to change the frequency of the PWM?

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