Flex Plate bolt question

kibbleking · **Joined:** Fri Jun 29, 2018 9:16 pm **Posts:** 18

Hi Gang,

Do I have to use the same style bolts when I get ready to put the flex plate back on ?
Can I use normal hex head bolts that match the length , threads, etc ??

KK

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2019 12:52 pm

kibbleking wrote:

Hi Gang,

Do I have to use the same style bolts when I get ready to put the flex plate back on ?
Can I use normal hex head bolts that match the length , threads, etc ??

KK

Yes, I've seen grade 8 hex bolts work well, but they might not have as much surface area as the factory bolts. I would use factory for "race" engines, and don't forget red locktite and enough time for it to set up completely

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2019 8:13 pm

I guess I'm living dangerously - I put mine in without any locktite, but put about 35 lb-ft on them.

The factory bolts are a "short" head design, to allow clearance from the bell housing. Standard bolt heads likely will not clear, you may have to grind them down. I know the manual lists the factory bolts as TTY, but the ones that I have seem to be a grade 12.9 (max rating for metric) with 6 stripes stamped in the heads. This doesn't seem to be TTY.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2019 11:01 pm

I have some that I took out of a junkyard engine, and they look to be standard hex grade 8. They survived the most destructive valve consumption that I've seen yet, and I've seen several. It somehow ran until it pounded the entire liner, and most of the piston into about 1 inch or smaller pieces. How did it run that long is my question!? The hex bolts held on perfectly. I can post the thickness of the heads if you're worried about clearance

Flex Plate bolt question

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