Flash, I basically went thru the diag steps in the FSM (pgs 9-906 to 9-921). As best I could without a DRBIII meter.

The voltages were all in the OK range. BTW, there are 3 wires at the cam sensor. From my scribbles when I ran the tests: step 3. sensor line (middle pin, #2) reads ~5v with ignition on (per the test), step 5. 5-volt line (pin 3) was also in range (4.7-5.4v). Steps 6, 10, and 13 measure the resistance between the sensor connector pins and their pins at the ECM, they were all good.

So two of three pins at the sensor measure ~5v, but per the FSM they are supposed to. If they were higher or lower the FSM would guide you to other steps to look for shorts or overvoltage problems. Are you saying that one of those pins that the FSM wants to be at 5v shouldn't be?

The main issue (if it indeed is electrical) is that it is very intermittent. The engine will start and run many times for many miles without the P0340 code coming up. And if I reset it when it appears, it will go again for a some time without reappearing. So if some wire has a break or short to something, it only happens every now and then. I have tried to see if I could cause the code to appear, but could not get any consistent pattern. Really stepping on the go pedal sometimes, maybe. Big bumps, sometimes maybe. But nothing that you can make happen. I have never been able to cause the code from wiggling wires, which I would expect to be able to do if it were electrical, but maybe not if the break isn't that bad yet.

Thanks for the help, and hope that is the info you wanted.

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2006 KJ CRD

So had a chance between storms to double check a few things.

On the engine in question, if I aligned the exhaust pin first, I could get it to go in a bit more, like only 1/16" gap to fully in. At no position could I get it all the way in on this engine by hand, although it does go all the way in on others. With the exhaust pin in that far, the intake and crank pins still align easily and go in all the way. So the question is does that one exhaust pin not hand treading in that last little bit indicate an alignment/timing issue or not? Experts?

I also played with the loose cam/intake manifold I have access to. To get the exhaust pin to bind at 1/16" out it takes roughly 1/3 of a tbelt tooth-tooth distance in rotation. Since there are 50 teeth in 180deg on the cam that would give 3.6deg per tooth and 33% of that is roughly 1deg. So that means that this pin being 1/16" out, at most should mean the cam is off by ~1.2 degree (or 2.4 deg of crank rotation since the crank makes 2x the revs as the cams). So the question here is, is being 1.2 deg off at the cam 2.4 deg at the crank in the tbelt timing, either: bad for the engine, or enough to trigger a P0340 error every now and then? Experts?

If anyone thinks they know any of these answers, or just want to venture a guess, please let me know.

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2006 KJ CRD

The biggest problem here is that if it is electrical....it will be hard to find as it appears to be intermittent.

So doing static measurements are not likely to find the problem if there is a wiring issue that only shows up when hitting a bump in the road!

I was fortunate with my problems in that although they started out as intermittent they became solid so that I could make all my measurements in the garage!

Electrical problems are a pain but years of fixing them put food on my table and a roof over my head and helps me fix issues that the local Dealers merely scratch their heads at

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2002 Export CRD