Weeks stage 1

RCS · **Joined:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:19 pm **Posts:** 86

I tried searching this but for some reason it kept timing out. Is it still possible to get a stage 1 kit? I looked at Sasquatch and it did not list it.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 15, 2019 3:56 am

I don't think so. But you can get an elbow kit on eBay that I believe has most of it or you can just accomplish the same thing without a kit block egr and take out butterfly in FVC etc.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 15, 2019 4:12 am

Here is a link:
https://www.ebay.com/i/222554433039?chn=ps

But also look at this post for the K B Diesel option

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=90044

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:08 pm

Plenty of the EGR delete kits available on eBay:
EGR FCV Delete Kit for Jeep Liberty 2.8L Turbo Diesel CRD 05-06 Stage 1+2
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... L&_sacat=0

RCS · **Joined:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:19 pm **Posts:** 86

WWDiesel wrote:

Plenty of the EGR delete kits available on eBay:
EGR FCV Delete Kit for Jeep Liberty 2.8L Turbo Diesel CRD 05-06 Stage 1+2
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... L&_sacat=0

I was thinking of only doing the stage 1. I have a yeti tune to shut off the EGR. I was going to pull the FCV and elbow and clean it. I am still getting some smoke. I am in Denver and there is a chance they would look to see if the EGR is in. They changed the rules here a couple years ago and checked the block number on my 98 Cummins. I had never run Cat on it but they said my block number showed it was originally a California truck and it had to be set up like a California truck even though I was in Denver. I had to put a Cat on it.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 15, 2019 2:18 pm

whatever you decide to do including just removing the fav/elbow and replacing it do yourself a favor and install studs instead of using the bolts. This will make it much easier to remove and replace next time.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 15, 2019 2:24 pm

RCS wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Plenty of the EGR delete kits available on eBay:
EGR FCV Delete Kit for Jeep Liberty 2.8L Turbo Diesel CRD 05-06 Stage 1+2
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... L&_sacat=0

I was thinking of only doing the stage 1. I have a yeti tune to shut off the EGR. I was going to pull the FCV and elbow and clean it. I am still getting some smoke. I am in Denver and there is a chance they would look to see if the EGR is in. They changed the rules here a couple years ago and checked the block number on my 98 Cummins. I had never run Cat on it but they said my block number showed it was originally a California truck and it had to be set up like a California truck even though I was in Denver. I had to put a Cat on it.

Unfortunately, no tune can fully prevent an EGR valve from leaking by and dumping exhaust into the intake or leaking/loosing boost in the opposite direction.
The ONLY 100% sure way is to totally remove the entire EGR system which is best, or at least install a block-off plate between the exhaust feed tube and the EGR valve.
If you simply install a block-off plate, you should still remove the butterfly flapper in the FCV to disable its operation. There are only two small torx screws holding it in that you have to remove to pull it out.
Installing a block-off plate and removing the butterfly flapper out of the FCV cannot be observed by an inspector as neither are visible. Only a VERY, VERY trained eye could find the block off plate. As long as they don't do a tailpipe sniffer test, and I doubt even then it could be found if they only do it at idle speed as the EGR does not come into play at low RPMs while setting still.
And the majority of inspectors are not familiar enough with the Jeep Liberty CRD to even be able to spot whether or not the EGR system has been removed or not.
You could always just simply install the block-off plate, remove the FCV butterfly flapper, and unplug the EGR valve and FCV.
If you already have the correct tune installed, this would not set a DTC.

RCS · **Joined:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:19 pm **Posts:** 86

WWDiesel wrote:

RCS wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Plenty of the EGR delete kits available on eBay:
EGR FCV Delete Kit for Jeep Liberty 2.8L Turbo Diesel CRD 05-06 Stage 1+2
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... L&_sacat=0

I was thinking of only doing the stage 1. I have a yeti tune to shut off the EGR. I was going to pull the FCV and elbow and clean it. I am still getting some smoke. I am in Denver and there is a chance they would look to see if the EGR is in. They changed the rules here a couple years ago and checked the block number on my 98 Cummins. I had never run Cat on it but they said my block number showed it was originally a California truck and it had to be set up like a California truck even though I was in Denver. I had to put a Cat on it.

Unfortunately, no tune can fully prevent an EGR valve from leaking by and dumping exhaust into the intake or leaking/loosing boost in the opposite direction.
The ONLY 100% sure way is to totally remove the entire EGR system which is best, or at least install a block-off plate between the exhaust feed tube and the EGR valve.
If you simply install a block-off plate, you should still remove the butterfly flapper in the FCV to disable its operation. There are only two small torx screws holding it in that you have to remove to pull it out.
Installing a block-off plate and removing the butterfly flapper out of the FCV cannot be observed by an inspector as neither are visible. Only a VERY, VERY trained eye could find the block off plate. As long as they don't do a tailpipe sniffer test, and I doubt even then it could be found if they only do it at idle speed as the EGR does not come into play at low RPMs while setting still.
And the majority of inspectors are not familiar enough with the Jeep Liberty CRD to even be able to spot whether or not the EGR system has been removed or not.
You could always just simply install the block-off plate, remove the FCV butterfly flapper, and unplug the EGR valve and FCV.
If you already have the correct tune installed, this would not set a DTC.

What you are describing is what I am wanting to do. They check for opacity, at multi speeds and accelerations. Anything over 35% will fail. Mine belches a big black cloud every now and than when accelerating. My luck is it would do it during a test. Last year I was 30% at 50 on the pull but never see that during driving. I also seem to have a little turbo lag. When i was doing the thermostat I checked and there was no play in the shaft. Where are you putting the block off plate? I don't think they look that close. It is more of a check to see if there is a cat and if the EGR is there.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 15, 2019 3:25 pm

the block off plate ww is referring to is put at the end of the tube that comes around the back of the engine from rear of exhaust manifold to firewall side of EGR.

You might also want to double check for cracked or loose connections of intercooler hoses.

RCS · **Joined:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:19 pm **Posts:** 86

TKB4 wrote:

the block off plate ww is referring to is put at the end of the tube that comes around the back of the engine from rear of exhaust manifold to firewall side of EGR.

You might also want to double check for cracked or loose connections of intercooler hoses.

A lot to ask but do you happen to have a picture, for reason when I do a search it times out.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 16, 2019 11:44 am

I doubt I have a pic but I probably have the old parts around here that I could take a pic of by themselves if that would help.Somewhere there are Engine pics with engine out of vehicle on a stand I may or may not be able to find them easily. I think WW or papa indigo may have them handy.

For sears look at the Search topic which is a sticky or just do google search and add lost jeeps this usually works pretty well. On the forum search once it says timed out put exact same search words in and it should show you the results immediately. I don't know why this is but wish it could be fixed think its something to do with newer browsers etc.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jul 16, 2019 2:05 pm

RCS wrote:

A lot to ask but do you happen to have a picture, for reason when I do a search it times out.

NOTES:
1. Blank can be made our of some sheet metal or the top of a soup or vegetable can. Second picture is a technical drawing with dimensions.
2. Blank goes between EGR exhaust feed tube (sandwiches) and EGR valve.
3. Remove butterfly flapper out of FCV (two torx screws as shown in picture.

View all 3 pictures:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 16, 2019 3:29 pm

Here are pics with parts out of the vehicle:
https://imgur.com/Ighp7iK
https://imgur.com/0C7pNad

The first pic shows egr on cooler and pipe that goes to the current elbow/fvc and tube that comes from exhaust manifold around back of engine lying flat on ground .

The second pic (ignore the pipe at the bottom egr just sitting on the other tube so that you can tell orientation of tube that goes around the back better

RCS · **Joined:** Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:19 pm **Posts:** 86

WWDiesel wrote:

RCS wrote:

A lot to ask but do you happen to have a picture, for reason when I do a search it times out.

NOTES:
1. Blank can be made our of some sheet metal or the top of a soup or vegetable can. Second picture is a technical drawing with dimensions.
2. Blank goes between EGR exhaust feed tube (sandwiches) and EGR valve.
3. Remove butterfly flapper out of FCV (two torx screws as shown in picture.

View all 3 pictures:

What did you do with the hard tube that went into the intake elbow?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 19, 2019 2:28 pm

RCS wrote:

What did you do with the hard tube that went into the intake elbow?

IF your installing the kit.
Once you remove the FCV, EGR valve, & EGR cooler, that tube along with all the other hoses is no longer needed.
If not installing the kit,
just blank off the exhaust feed tube to the EGR valve as pictured above and leaving most of the other junk in place, the only other thing you need to do is remove the butterfly plate out of the FCV. Going this route, I would still remove all the coolant hoses and bypass the EGR cooler to prevent any future leaks.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 22, 2019 1:23 pm

I believe you are referring to the flow control valve to the intake . That is the upper piece pictured in my photo link. In WW s pic he has it replaced with an aftermarket elbow with the short silicone hose. The original flow control valve is what he is talking about removing the butterfly valve from.

Note if you ever have to remove the valve cover or replace glow plugs then the aftermarket elbow that uses the short piece of silicone hose makes it much easier because you only need to unclamp the hose and remove the short metal piece with the valve cover, otherwise you have to fight with the 4 bolts holding the original FVC or the one piece aftermarket intake tube to the valve cover.

Weeks stage 1

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