New rockers, how to lubricate?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2019 3:27 pm

Heavy as hell and unbalanced. I leave the manifold on, but pull the turbo usually. The head is 38 lbs of aluminum, the turbo is about 20 lbs of iron and the manifold is about 12 lbs. That's a LOT to hold at arm's length and position precisely.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2019 4:13 pm

"I always pull the head with manifold and turbo attached. I also reaaasemble with it together. I just make sure I eat my wheaties that morning"

Yeah, but you're "farmer tough" Josh (works 25 hour days)...

I do pull them and install them married, but the shop crane does the lifting!

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2019 1:01 am

krb wrote:

So fool4wheelin, you pulled the head with the exhaust manifold & turbo attached?

No, I removed the exhaust manifold from the head with the turbo still attached. And put it back on in the same manner.

This engine is pretty straightforward to work on. Besides some of the specialty timing tools most items can be disassembled with a 10mm & 13mm socket. Never have had issues with seized or rusty bolts.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2019 1:13 am

If you get the ARP head studs they come with enough ARP assembly lube for everything and it is an excellent graphite/moly lube I've used for decades.

krb · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2019 5:25 am

Well I finally got the turbo off and all the manifold nuts. I was amazed at how easily they broke loose and spun - but then again I am used to wrenching on 30-70 year old junk.

What is the hose at the back of the manifold? I loosened the clamp all the way but it won't let go, any tips?

Is the Garrett M53 the stock turbo I assume?

Hope to pull the head tonight.

krb · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2019 6:18 am

Just checked at Sasquatch and the M53 is the stock turbo.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2019 3:58 pm

The hose you are questioning is the EGR crossover pipe. If you have removed the band clamp on the exhaust manifold, the other end is on the EGR on the opposite side of the engine. There is also an 8mm bolt in the middle of the back of the head, but you CAN remove the pipe from that clamp without removing that bolt. The opening of the clamp faces up.

Once the EGR is deleted with the cap on the exhaust manifold, that pipe is no longer required anyway.

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:24 pm

geordi wrote:

The hose you are questioning is the EGR crossover pipe.

I just happen to have one of these in "mint" condition if you need one :mrgreen:

krb · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2019 6:14 am

I was planning on blocking it but only with a thin plate sandwiched in between. So I guess I'll just keep the pipe since I'd have to fabricate a beefier plate plus something for the manifold.

I take it that fool4wheeling you removed yours already huh?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2019 11:29 am

krb wrote:

I was planning on blocking it but only with a thin plate sandwiched in between. So I guess I'll just keep the pipe since I'd have to fabricate a beefier plate plus something for the manifold.

I take it that fool4wheeling you removed yours already huh?

Sasquatch has the plug for the exhaust manifold.
You might also find it for sale at idparts.com

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2019 12:11 pm

Dimensions to make a block off plate if you go that route.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2019 3:11 pm

You don't need anything "beefy" and you really only need the cap for the manifold end - IDparts sells that separately. You want that, and a coolant bypass kit.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 21, 2019 4:10 pm

The "Block Off" plate can be made out of any thin sheet metal like the top of a soup or vegetable can.
Cost is $0, time about 30 minutes of your time to make plate using hand tools and then install between EGR feed tube and EGR valve.

krb · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2019 7:23 am

Made the plate back in the summer. But that was when I was just doing the timing belt, glow plugs, et al. But after I broke off the glow plug I had to remove the head an so I'm wondering, if I had all that stuff (EGR tube) off anyway...

I guess I can price the cap and coolant bypass.

This $450 Jeep has taken me down a rabbit hole. But then again whatever the project is I'm not one that can resist replacing and upgrading the pieces or parts on the way - as much as I can afford it. It's like "we'll I've got it torn down this far anyway so I might as well..."

This project's budget (ha ha) has been just for known failures or weaknesses & design flaws. No $$$ for upgrades or bombing.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 23, 2019 10:43 am

All you need to remove manifold from head is a 1/4 inch breaker bar or sometimes called flex handle breaker bar such as this one and many similar ones on amazon.https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CRW5-Fl ... r=8-4&th=1

and a set of deep and shallow !/4 inch metric sockets

1/4 inch wobble extensions
a 1/4 inch flex ratchet
Some PATIENCE

krb · **Posted:** Sun Aug 18, 2019 6:33 am

Well I'm finally back on this project, with the added thrill of not remembering exactly how it came apart...

Anyway, I can't find an exhaust EGR plug from Saquatch or IDParts, am I looking in the wrong places?

I was just planning on, and had made the plate as WWDiesel describes but now considering removing the whole mess. Partially because I can't seem to get the exhaust manifold installed on the head with that bloody tube attached...

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 18, 2019 10:26 am

I am not sure that they sell them any more. They might but I know I couldn't easily find one a while back. I think they were about $30. I would call them they could quickly tell you they may have gone the way of the weeks kit.

The good news is you can make essentially the same thing in about 30 minutes or less and no waiting and you need to use gasket sealer either way. see this topic I posted and it still looks original and you can do the same on flow control valve to egr if you want to keep the original look.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=90293

I have removed three heads in the last month and removed by themselves by removing manifold all three times . It is tedious to get two of the exhaust manifold bolts off and you absolutely have to have a 1/4 inch breaker bar but it generally takes me about an hour or less and no messing with turbo drain tube or supply lines etc. Just undo the downpipe and the one turbo bracket bolt you can easily do from above. If you have trouble you can loosen the other two turbo mounting brackets below but I wouldn't loosen too much or remove them or the turbo drain tube will work its way out and it can be a booger to get back in. You may also need a 1/4 inch universal joint and possibly a 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch adapter for the lower nut behind the turbo. with the 1/4 inch breaker bar I also use 1/2 inch conduit as extension in about 8 inch and 12 inch lengths. If you are going to need the head by itself you will still need the 1/4 inch breaker bar. This way only gasket needed is the exhaust manifold gasket which is about $10 now, no turbo gaskets etc.

krb · **Posted:** Mon Aug 19, 2019 7:07 am

So when re-installing, you have a bare head and then add the exhaust manifold?

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 19, 2019 8:02 am

krb · **Posted:** Mon Jan 13, 2020 6:55 pm

Finally, some progress...

I installed the intake, using home made guides and the PVC pipe spacers. The intake "rocks" on the head. I assume this is due to the fact that some of the cam lobes are on the open cycle, contacting the rockers first while the others aren't, right? I double checked as I lowered it and all the rockers were where they were supposed to be. It is very slight.

I'll tighten per FSM unless somebody throws up a red flag...

New rockers, how to lubricate?

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