Clean out intake & exhaust manifold?

BigDieselEv2 · **Joined:** Sat Nov 24, 2018 8:26 pm **Posts:** 2

I usually take mine to the local machine shop and have it done professionally. Doesn't cost too much. As far as prep, maybe a light scuffing with a wire brush, but be careful to not get any loose brush whiskers in places you don't want them, like inside passageways et cetara.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Mon Mar 25, 2019 9:39 pm

Before you put your exhaust back on send it out like I did to get ceramic coated, the turbo will respond a little better (hardly noticeable) and the under hood terms will be better as the heat will be in the exhaust

For my intake I put mine in my Karcher wash cabinet at work and left it in for an hour... It came out new

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 26, 2019 3:46 am

I cleaned mine with bottle brush and tried diesel gasoline brake cleaner etc it was very very messy and time consuming. I would take it to shop. One idea that may work well. I removed one intake that was on an engine that overheated and the intake was spotless. I presume the steam from overheating removed all the deposits. so its possible that steam cleaning would be effective.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:31 am

Steam is a great cleaner for the crud, we use water methanol injection in the race truck and I can tell you that 6.7 cummins looks like new, it removed 140k worth of gunk in a short time. There are chemicals I use to do this service at work with the intake on, I do it for all diesels, BG ISC, the apparatus mists the chemicals into the intake after the intercooler where it breaks down the gunk and it gets consumed by the engine. We do it every 20k on diesels with egr to keep the sludge under control.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 26, 2019 10:03 am

I would normally lean toward using something like the half seafoam in fuel filter method on a diesel with afterward additive to tank etc, If I had a diesel with a functional EGR I believe this would actually be a useful service. Guess I just have a hard time believing that more than superficial layer of crud would be removed in a relatively short 15 to 30 minutes treatment to make it worth the cost. I can see that with regular treatments it could have a definite benefit.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Tue Mar 26, 2019 9:39 pm

Sea foam is not a powerfull cleaner so it takes a long time compared to the chemicals that are for profesional use only, that said, no matter what you put in your oil or fuel it WONT clean the intake, diesels are direct injected not port or throttle body injected where the fuel has a chance to clean the intake, this is why they have all kinds of carbon issues on GDI's, dry valves and intake plus blow by and oil vapors in the intake and nothing built in to clean it.

I require an induction cleaning before doing a glow plug job at my shop to clean the carbon from the glow plugs and help prevent breaking them off in the head, GM recomended this also. I also do it to the 05-09 ford 3v triton engines to avoid breaking the spark plugs in half. In the last 10 years I have only broke one plug in a 3v ford using this method and never broke a glow plug so it cleans great.

krb · **Posted:** Wed Mar 27, 2019 5:09 am

Weird, I got an email notice and checked earlier and there was a post about cleaning it but a caution to be sure and pre-oil or re-charge the cam bearings to avoid a dry start but I don't see that anymore? Is there a procedure to do that or does one just give it a good soaking?

I'm wondering now if the carbon buildup you refer to is why my #1 glow plug broke off in the first place maybe. Scary that newer vehicles can build up enough to break off a plug!

Not sure what method(s) I'll try yet. The machine shop I had it at to remove the rest of the glow plug said it looked pretty good, didn't think to ask him to at least clean it... I'm not worried about it looking pretty, just thought I should try and clean out all that jet black sooty oil while off. When I re-install I'll add the Provent kit I got from Sasquatch and avoid that in the future hopefully.

For the mating surfaces I'll try the scotch brite pad I used on the Cummins. It is like a plastic or something. I was concerned about gouging the aluminum if not careful.

Thanks for all the advice,

krb · **Posted:** Wed Mar 27, 2019 5:13 am

Whoa! I just checked the board and this thread got duplicated 4 times! What happened and how do I delete the 3 extra???

That explains the post I saw and then didn't see by APC9099...

Sorry for that mess,

My66dodge · **Posted:** Wed Mar 27, 2019 10:39 am

I just hose the cams and underside with wd40 before install, then wipe the mating surfaces for a clean install to the gasket, there is a bit of cranking to fill the rail before it starts and it oils quite well before it ever starts, I coat it out of habit

if the egr is not functional that should take care of the soot that builds up, the oil will leave a residue but it takes the soot to really cake up, the provent kit from sasquatch rocks, it will keep the air intake hose from rotting and keep both the intercooler and the map sensor oil free, plus if you use the auto drain back it should keep oil consumption to a minimum. I think oil in the intercooler is what blows the seals out of the modern diesel intercoolers

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 27, 2019 12:01 pm

Another plus for the ProVent system!
After installing the ProVent 200 filter several years ago on my Jeep CRD, I observed the amount of actual oil liquid that was being collected and drained from the filter canister was slowly decreasing with time. I had also at one point removed the CCV puck on top of the valve cover, disassembled it, cleaned it very good along with cleaning out the "J" tube in the bottom of where the puck mounts and reinstalled it. I now only get about a shot glass of actual liquid to drain out of the filter housing at each 5k oil change.

When I first installed the ProVent, I was collecting and draining about three or four times that amount and having to drain it between oil change intervals as well.
Not sure if anyone else has observed any similar results.

Note: I did redesign, as pictured below, the inlet flow route by installing a metal pipe which forces the CCV vapors to flow up higher than the puck itself to get to the ProVent filter.

Clean out intake & exhaust manifold?

Who is online