Hello everyone,

I've got an 05 Liberty CRD that has a brake issue that has been plaguing me for 2 years. Our Liberty now mostly sits parked in the garage as we now have an electric car as our main primary driver. The biggest reasons we've kept the CRD is 1) It's great for those occasional long distance drives that the electric car doesn't have the range for and 2) We like to travel in our motorhome and it's the only vehicle we own that can be towed 4 down...

So: When I say this has been an issue for 2 years, I've only added maybe 500 miles to the odometer in those two years. (Granted miles behind the MH don't add to the odo reading, but still)

Symptoms:
1.) When driving at highway speeds the front rotors will sometimes start the vibrate/shutter, as though the rotors were warped. If I pull over and check their temp with a infared thermometer they will read much hotter than normal for highway driving (IE: Cruise set and not using the brakes at all). Sometimes the vehicle will pull to the right or left. When it pulls to one side the brakes on that side are always considerably hotter (IE: The left side might be 250 degrees F and the right might be 350 degrees)
2.) When driving at lower speeds the brakes become extremely touchy, and sometimes you might notice that acceleration from a stop is more sluggish.
3.) When towing behind the MH last weekend I had a car flag me down when driving on a flat level stretch of road (Again, no brakes being applied). They told me I was "smoking" my tow vehicle brakes. I immediately pulled over and checked with the infrared gun: Fronts were reading 980 degrees F!!! And the rears were in the high 700 degrees.

What I've replaced so far:
1) All Rotors
2) All pads
3) All calipers
4) The lines/hoses from the wheel wells to the calipers.

I don't remember if I've replaced the speed sensors yet, but I'll be doing that today.

What I haven't replaced: The ABS module/valve body. Here's where things get complicated... I called the Jeep dealer and they tell me the ABS module for this Jeep (Part number: 5140733AB) has been "discontinued", and they couldn't offer a replacement part number.

So my questions are:

1) Could anything else be causing the brakes to be dragging?
2) Should I replace the ABS module? Does anyone know of a replacement part #?

Thanks

mAYBE TRY THE fACEBOOK CRD page.

Wish I had an answer for you. Sounds like maybe hanging calipers. I wouldn't think speed sensors would be involved, but you very well could have smoked those and bearings at those temps.

Do you run Synthetic fluid in your differentials?

I would also check/possibly change the bearings after getting that hot. Are your rotors smooth?

Do you use your emergency / parking brake?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700

It appears from your description that some pressure is somehow being maintained in the braking system, even when the driver's foot is off of the brake pedal.

I suspect that the master cylinder is malfunctioning and piston inside of it is not properly retracting, therefore maintaining residual pressure in the braking system. Contaminated brake fluid can cause this.

Have you driven your CRD after replacing all of the parts? I'd hate to think that new rotors are being warped from excessive heat from brakes dragging, for example.

Another concern - although not likely related to your current problem - is the rear brake backing plates are flimsy and can rust out. The results of rotted out backing plates is the parts of the emergency brake system are no longer properly pinned/located in place. These parts shift out of place, and the emergency brakes can no longer be properly applied - or - if applied, can no longer be properly released. I am currently having this problem with one of my CRDs.

With your rotors at 980 degrees Fahrenheit and 750 degrees Fahrenheit respectively, you have likely cooked our wheel bearings as well.

I will send you a e-mail message with my contact info.

Best regards,

Jeff

Yep, as I said, this has been an ongoing issue for two years. I haven't driven it much in those two years (500 or so miles) but I have replaced pads/rotors multiple times already and are about to replace them yet again. I've had multiple mechanics look at it and so far no-one has been able to figure it out. In fact it never seems to act up when the mechanics are looking at it which has been really adding to the frustration.



I agree. I'm actually going to pull the wheels off today and check them out.



Appreciate it. I did just check my messages and didn't see anything come through yet.

Try your junk mail folder... I will send an e-mail message again.

Was issue resolved? Having the same problem with a 2006. Replaced the master cylinder and Brake booster. Now threw a code C121E. I am at a loss. Any ideas?

That's a chassis code.

Probably need to have your ABS system bled.

Something is causing the 4 pressure lines to be out of balance pressure wise. This isn't as simple as just bleeding brake cylinders /calipers.

https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/how-to-bleed-abs-brakes-without-a-scan-tool.38700/

It really is more simple if you have or know someone that owns a proper professional scan tool.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

dont worry about the ABS code right now i had that before.... check your rubber break hoses between caliper to the metal break line, they may be causing your issue if they degraded because of the age. regarding bleeding breaks in my case i still didnt get the proper scan tool to do it, (i had a thread about this 2 months ago) i drive my crd on the icy road and the ABS kicked in, the break pedal is getting more and more firm. as suggested by somebody else its easier with the scan tool.

Rankom: Brake getting more and more firm means that you are NOT getting the vacuum assist that you should be from the master cylinder. Sounds like there is an issue there on yours.

For the OP - have you had the fluid completely changed? Other than a master cylinder or possibly even the brake pedal itself (maybe needs a return spring added on the pedal just for grins?)... The only other thought I have is you have water in the fluid and it is boiling somehow and creating steam pressure that is applying the brakes while you are driving. That it is happening while the engine is off and it is being towed suggests the heat is coming from one of the wheels, IF boiling is the problem.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

thanks geordi, nothing wrong with my vacuum system my CRD is 06 and i dont drive it during the winter, so as i said earlier i didnt get the proper scan tool to perform the break bleed. so drove it on the icy road a few times hoping that i get the ABS module bled so the break pedal felt firmer and firmer because when i replaced my RR break line my ABS module inhaled air. therefore the breaks are still not 100%. in the summer when i insure it il need to get and use the proper scan tool which is capable of doing the break bleed properly.