Is my CRD dead? - solved

darinb · **Posted:** Fri Jan 10, 2020 12:00 pm

I just placed my order for all new valves and valve seals at idparts for about $370. I didn't see the valves on the sasquatch site.

I also spoke to a local machine shop and they are going to put it in the tank and do the work for me.

I did break one of the turbo studs when I was removing it haha. I soaked them in penetrating oil but it still snapped right off. I was really surprised about how soft it was. I definitely want to get those changed out.

The turbo seemed gummy and hard to turn upon inspecting. Had some turbo lag recently. Is it a common issue for the turbo oil supply tube to clog? I replaced the turbo core myself at around 200k miles and it turned freely at that point. There is no play in the turbo just seems gummed up. I'll remove the oil supply and see how it looks.

Is this the kit I want for the EGR? https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-FCV-Delete ... Sw-89ZSw6t

Thanks for all the help so far. I will update with photos as I go.

Updated list:
valves
gaskets
arp studs
egr removal kit
Water pump
Rockers
T belt
Copper spray
4 injector crush washers
4 o-rings for the injectors
turbo drain gasket and grommet
turbo oil supply crush washers
turbo manifold gasket
intake gasket
thermostat gasket

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:08 pm

Yes, that's the kit. IDparts has everything you need.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 10, 2020 3:06 pm

definitely a newer style lifter so great but they need to be replaced anyway and of course the new timing belt parts so looks like you should be ok after you get all this work done and reassemble. You might even be the first one in US to get to 400k if it holds up!!

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 10, 2020 3:06 pm

definitely a newer style lifter so great but they need to be replaced anyway and of course the new timing belt parts so looks like you should be ok after you get all this work done and reassemble. You might even be the first one in US to get to 400k if it holds up!!

darinb · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:04 pm

I hope i can get to 400k that would be awesome!

One more question... since I'm this deep into the motor.. should I consider piston and bearing work since it has 280k on it? Or just leave the bottom end alone since it's working ok?

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2020 7:40 pm

I would leave it alone and just make sure and change oil regularly etc and consider going to 10 or 15 w 40 Diesel rated oil.

darinb · **Posted:** Mon Jan 20, 2020 10:01 pm

Ok gotcha. thank you

darinb · **Posted:** Sun Feb 09, 2020 10:21 am

Everything seems to be going smoothly at this point. Instead of taking the head to a machine shop I opted to do the work myself. I created a DIY bootleg hot tank from a video I found on YouTube using a metal trashcan and camp stove underneath. Now the head is cleaned I have removed all the valves replaced all the valve seals and now the valves are going back in. I do have a couple questions though. I also received the weeks EGR delete kit and watched the install video that “get it garage” did on YouTube. Can I just remove the entire EGR cooler off the side of the motor when I install the kit? Also I noticed there was a small round pin in the head with a hole in the middle as I was cleaning it. There is a photo included in the attached link. Should there have been two of these? There appears to be two areas on the head that it could fit into. If so I must have dropped one somewhere and will need to re-order these. I still need to clean the top of the block more but I’m close to reassembly.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmKKM7MzPjNogdY11s-CDCHQYFEqtA

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 09, 2020 12:29 pm

Nice pics, got a link to that hot tank video? The results look pretty good.

Meanwhile... That locating dowel has two places it can go, you can match them with the valve cover gasket to see. The places are the front-left (right in front of you) and the back-right, around the gap between the last two intake ports. These are NOT critical. If you've lost one, it is no big deal, the cover has to be lined up to bolt down anyway. The oil will flow just fine to the cams without that, and the cams don't have the same kind of oil-on-bearing cushion that the rods and crankshaft do, the tolerance just isn't as tight.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Feb 09, 2020 2:17 pm

darinb wrote:

Everything seems to be going smoothly at this point. Instead of taking the head to a machine shop I opted to do the work myself. I created a DIY bootleg hot tank from a video I found on YouTube using a metal trashcan and camp stove underneath. Now the head is cleaned I have removed all the valves replaced all the valve seals and now the valves are going back in. I do have a couple questions though. I also received the weeks EGR delete kit and watched the install video that “get it garage” did on YouTube. Can I just remove the entire EGR cooler off the side of the motor when I install the kit? Also I noticed there was a small round pin in the head with a hole in the middle as I was cleaning it. There is a photo included in the attached link. Should there have been two of these? There appears to be two areas on the head that it could fit into. If so I must have dropped one somewhere and will need to re-order these. I still need to clean the top of the block more but I’m close to reassembly.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmKKM7MzPjNogdY11s-CDCHQYFEqtA
After looking at the block again I think there is only one place the pin can go but please let me know if I am wrong.

There are two dowels according to Mopar, DOWEL. Rocker. Part Number: 04720165, but you probably could make one from some dowel / metal rod stock.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 2:37 pm

The only thing You might have trouble doing yourself very accurately is check for flatness but without previous problem such as head gasket leak I wouldn't worry about it and a good metal straight edge like a square should give you a pretty good idea.

darinb · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 4:55 pm

The hot tank I made was similar to this one: https://youtu.be/VaVGwAJVffY

I was surprised at how clean it got. I did do a good bit of hand cleaning before and after though.

I may just go without the dowel if it isn't necessary.

I used a large carpenter's square to check the flatness of the head and i didn't see any gaps that would indicate that it is warped at all.

darinb · **Posted:** Sat Feb 29, 2020 2:54 pm

I think I’ve got the egr kit figured out now and I’m about ready to reassemble. My current question is... the top of the block is a little rough and I’m wondering if I need to try to get it smoother before putting the head back on. or should it seal ok with the new gasket? I took some pics below.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmKKM7MzPjNogdZeT2aujBCmiBRH2w

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Feb 29, 2020 3:09 pm

Scrape the top of the block with a razor dragged backwards - DO NOT PUSH THE BLADE FORWARD INTO THE METAL - Drag it at close to a 90 degree angle to remove most surface imperfections, then blow it off with an airgun or wipe with a paper towel and brake cleaner. Same for the underside of the head.

Use a heavy coating of Copper spray (Permatex product from the auto store) on all 4 surfaces - deck of the block, underside of the head, and both sides of the gasket. Spray the block and the block-side of the gasket first, and let it set up for at least 5 minutes but less than 15, and assemble. Repeat with the top of the gasket and the bottom of the head. Install the ARP studs immediately and start compression. Pre-assemble the studs with the nut flush to the top of the stud, and ARP lube ONLY on the fine threads, inside of the nut, and on the washer and nut face. DO NOTHING TO THE WIDE THREADS. Install the assembly into the block and tighten the stud hand-tight if the nut contacted the head. If the stud bottomed out before the nut contacted, back it off one half-turn and hold the stud while you make the nut hand-tight. This is less critical right now and will be re-done later.

Follow the factory pattern, clamping in the following stages: 50 lb-ft, 80 lb-ft, 100 lb-ft. Then one by one, loosen each nut completely, reset the nut to flush with the top of the stud and reinstall the stud hand-tight. IF the stud bottoms out before the nut contacts the head, back it off one half-turn and bring the nut to hand-tight, then torque to final torque based on position: Stud positions 1-10 (center rows) 130 lb-ft. For stud positions 11-18, final torque is 120 lb-ft.

Do not use the factory TTY bolts, they WILL leak again.

darinb · **Posted:** Sat Feb 29, 2020 3:20 pm

Ok I have the arp studs and copper spray. I wast sure if I should put the copper spray on the block or not. It looks like I’m about ready to put the head on. Gonna clean the block a little more and I’ll post some more pics shorty. Thanks again for the help.

darinb · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2020 1:30 pm

Got the head back on.. now to finish cleaning the valve cover and install rockers and cover.. may have more questions on that part.. here are some more photos

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmKKM7MzPjNogdZlvSd ... g?e=U0DKmO

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2020 2:19 pm

darinb wrote:

Got the head back on.. now to finish cleaning the valve cover and install rockers and cover.. may have more questions on that part.. here are some more photos
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmKKM7MzPjNogdZlvSd ... g?e=U0DKmO

Looking Good! :rockon:

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2020 2:43 pm

The in-process pics look good. When you finished with the studs, there should be 1-2 threads of stud protruding from each nut. This is what you have, yes? If not... Then maximum clamping force was not reached. The studs MUST protrude from the top of the nut when final torque is reached.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2020 8:47 pm

Yep looking good been there done that a few times. Just think how much faster and more confident you can do it next time !! :ROTFL:

Several here willing to give advice as you need it as you already know. make sure you tighten ARP s in stages and correct order. Make sure you use the guide bolts to guide the valvecover back on and rotate the crank nat least 6 rotations after you think you have the timing belt on correctly adjusting tensioner as needed probably at least one more time after rotating is normal.

Good work!!

darinb · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2020 9:38 am

WWDiesel wrote:

darinb wrote:

Got the head back on.. now to finish cleaning the valve cover and install rockers and cover.. may have more questions on that part.. here are some more photos
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmKKM7MzPjNogdZlvSd ... g?e=U0DKmO

Looking Good! :rockon:

Thanks!

geordi wrote:

The in-process pics look good. When you finished with the studs, there should be 1-2 threads of stud protruding from each nut. This is what you have, yes? If not... Then maximum clamping force was not reached. The studs MUST protrude from the top of the nut when final torque is reached.

Yes I do have some threads sticking out. I had to use an Allen wrench and back a couple of them out a little while torquing.

TKB4 wrote:

Yep looking good been there done that a few times. Just think how much faster and more confident you can do it next time !! :ROTFL:

Several here willing to give advice as you need it as you already know. make sure you tighten ARP s in stages and correct order. Make sure you use the guide bolts to guide the valvecover back on and rotate the crank nat least 6 rotations after you think you have the timing belt on correctly adjusting tensioner as needed probably at least one more time after rotating is normal.

Good work!!

I dont know if there will be a next time after all this work haha! I'll make sure I use the guide bolts and check the timing a couple times before starting. Thanks for the advice.

Is my CRD dead? - solved

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