Engine stalled, cranks no start

Xuon · **Joined:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:02 pm **Posts:** 9

Wife was driving and engine stalled, cranked and bled fuel but no go, had it towed home.

Scanner shows codes that weren't there before the stall
P0340 - camshaft bank1
P0299 - low boost
B2TAE - ???
P0101 - MAF performance problem

Mods:
Racor fuel filter
Inline fuel pump
Yeti mild tune
Replaced quick connecters from fuel tank

Replaced Crankshaft sensor 6 months ago because it was giving problems, worked fine afterwards.
Replaced camshaft sensor today and no luck
In thinking either bad wiring from sensor or bad pcm?
Engine has 150k miles

Any ideas?

Xuon · **Joined:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:02 pm **Posts:** 9

Also for forgot to add, over the last year i experienced twice while driving that the dash would go out completely and all the lights would restart along with the gong but car kept driving normally.

Billybob · **Posted:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 3:57 am

What year is your CRD?
2005 or 2006?

Presume its a LHD USA or Canadian model.
Have you checked the connectors going to the Cam and Crank sensors are making good contact?
Using Mopar replacement sensor part?

Any strange lights on the cluster such as the SKREEM immobiliser light?
Test all the cluster lamps are working by holding in the Odometer Reset button while turning ignition ON.
All the cluster lamps should light up and the gauges move about.

Could be a bad ground somewhere which could also be relevant to the cluster losing power.

If it is a 2006 LHD CRD then remove the Fuel Filter Head Mounting Bracket and inspect the wiring harness in that area for damage. The 2006 CRD the mounting bracket can compress the wiring harness against the Firewall causing shorts to chassis or shorts between random wires.

Check all fuses inside the cabin and in the box under the hood.
Swap over the ASD relay in this box with an identical one next to it.
Try removing the ASD relay and identify female pins 30 and 87 inside the empty socket.
Jumper these two female pins together and see if it starts.

Download the Jeep KJ Service Manual for your year KJ here...has Theory of Operations and the Wiring Diagrams in section 8W. Wiring diagrams show most but not all Grounding locations.

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

The ECM is pretty robust and should only be replaced as a last resort...most likely a wiring problem ie. broken wire, wire short to ground or bad connector somewhere in the wiring harness. :wink:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 6:31 am

I have only heard of one or two ECM s being the root of a problem, but lots of connection, wiring, grounding issues. Make sure to check the ground beneath battery tray and toward head light. First thing I would do is replace the MAP sensor not just clean it. This data will affect boost etc. Did you clear and then recheck codes after replacing the cam sensor? I would also unplug the MAF sensor forcing the ECM to use generic data settings etc. It sounds like a wiring problem. I am not familiar with the B2TAE code will try to check what it relates to. See if RPM s needle moves while cranking now.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:32 am

Broken timing belt will throw a camshaft code.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

Xuon · **Joined:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:02 pm **Posts:** 9

WolverineFW wrote:

Broken timing belt will throw a camshaft code.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

I was afraid of this, the rockers would be damaged if this happened right?

Also model year is a 2005

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 12:40 pm

Xuon wrote:

WolverineFW wrote:

Broken timing belt will throw a camshaft code.

I was afraid of this, the rockers would be damaged if this happened right?
Also model year is a 2005

Yes, if TB brakes, rocker arm damage will occur.
How many miles on vehicle and when was the TB last replaced (mileage & time)?

Xuon · **Joined:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:02 pm **Posts:** 9

WWDiesel wrote:

Xuon wrote:

WolverineFW wrote:

Broken timing belt will throw a camshaft code.

I was afraid of this, the rockers would be damaged if this happened right?
Also model year is a 2005

Yes, if TB brakes, rocker arm damage will occur.
How many miles on vehicle and when was the TB last replaced (mileage & time)?

I'm unsure on time but according to previous owner it was done at 70k miles, right now it has 150k.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:28 pm

Xuon wrote:

I'm unsure on time but according to previous owner it was done at 70k miles, right now it has 150k.

You are getting real close in mileage for a repeat.
Knowing time would be real nice!

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 9:47 pm

When cranking the engine, does it still sound "normal" as before, or has the sound significantly changed?

The computer will not allow the engine to start if it does not have good electric connection. Check the ground point under the engine fuse box and directly behind the driver's headlamp. All the dashboard is grounded through this connection and I believe the ECU as well.

Where are you located? I am the traveling CRD tech, and if your CRD has actually broken the timing belt, your engine will need significant work to take apart and repair it. However the engine IS repairable and severe internal damage has likely been prevented by the design of breakable rockers.

Xuon · **Joined:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:02 pm **Posts:** 9

geordi wrote:

When cranking the engine, does it still sound "normal" as before, or has the sound significantly changed?

The computer will not allow the engine to start if it does not have good electric connection. Check the ground point under the engine fuse box and directly behind the driver's headlamp. All the dashboard is grounded through this connection and I believe the ECU as well.

Where are you located? I am the traveling CRD tech, and if your CRD has actually broken the timing belt, your engine will need significant work to take apart and repair it. However the engine IS repairable and severe internal damage has likely been prevented by the design of breakable rockers.

The engine sounds the same as before when cranking, im located in san diego ca.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jun 09, 2019 4:04 pm

Ok - The sound would have changed if the rockers had broken from a broken timing belt. So that suggests that your engine likely did not lose the belt. That means the problem is in the electrical system somewhere.

The ECU is powered by fuse #14 in the inside fuse panel, which is also the circuit that powers the AC compressor. If that fuse pops, the engine will die or will not start.
There is also an "ASD" relay (Automatic shut down) in the relay box by the battery. You can swap this with another relay (they are pretty much all the same generic relays) for a test - if the engine starts, then the relay is bad.

The ASD relay *must* be powered for the engine to run.

Then there are the ground points - the factory service manual is available for free download, and this will have the electrical diagrams for the ground points. From my memory, there are supposed to be 3 on the driver's side but actually there are 4. One under the driver's headlamp (and may have a match on the passenger side), one on the vertical fender wall adjacent to the headlamp, and two back by the ECU - one on the firewall and (IIRC) another on the fender. The passenger side has similar locations. If these are corroded or not good, then the power will try to ground out elsewhere and cause problems.

If the battery is not reading above 12v WHILE CRANKING then it likely needs replacement. It doesn't need to be a group 34R Optima Redtop.... That spec and brand will cost far more for no obvious benefit. Any group 34 battery should fit although the higher the CCA the better - and the terminals may need a bit of adjusting to reach. The electrics on this platform are extremely sensitive.

Xuon · **Joined:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:02 pm **Posts:** 9

I bent the timing belt cover a little bit to check the belt and it is tight, couldn't crank it because battery died.

Xuon · **Joined:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:02 pm **Posts:** 9

Well it has been confirmed, I gave it a few cranks and teeth are missing from the timing belt so it needs an overhaul to get it working again.
I'm thinking of letting it go as is, what is a good price for this project?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jun 18, 2019 11:57 pm

Xuon wrote:

Well it has been confirmed, I gave it a few cranks and teeth are missing from the timing belt so it needs an overhaul to get it working again.
I'm thinking of letting it go as is, what is a good price for this project?

Its going to need rocker arms, head gasket, head studs, exhaust valves, water pump, timing belt kit which consists of belt, idler pulleys, and a tensioner pulley at a minimum.
About $1500.00 in parts alone and that is if you do all the work yourself and nothing else got damaged when the timing belt slipped.
If you have to pay someone to do all the labor, the price will easily double.

Where is it located? Have any other mods or updates been done to it. Any other problems or issues a buyer needs to know about?
Got any pictures of vehicle, that always helps if your trying to sale it.

List it here> viewforum.php?f=35
if you want to sale it.

Xuon · **Joined:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:02 pm **Posts:** 9

its up for sale on the forum

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=90169

Engine stalled, cranks no start

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