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In-Tank Pump wiring
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=90043		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  timothyd [ Thu May 23, 2019 5:20 pm ]
Post subject:  In-Tank Pump wiring
I am going to be doing the carter in tank pump, what I need is the 2 locations and what pins the new wires need to be in for the pump. Also if anyone knows of a source for the correct pins that can be bought.
Author:  WWDiesel [ Thu May 23, 2019 11:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-Tank Pump wiring
timothyd wrote:
I am going to be doing the carter in tank pump, what I need is the 2 locations and what pins the new wires need to be in for the pump. Also if anyone knows of a source for the correct pins that can be bought.

See this web page, it gives a pretty good run down on the intank pump install:
http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

If you want to modify or make your own wiring harness to go from the connector under the back seat to the top of the fuel tank/pump module:
the pins required are:
Wire Terminals: APEX 2.8MM
male, 14-16 gauge wire
female, 14-16 gauge wire
available from Mouser Electronics:> https://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Autom ... bwZ1z1414h

You can also order a plug and play wiring harness from SasquatchParts.com which already has the circuits and connections for the fuel pump addition..
05 & 06 use different wiring harnesses though due to the different ABS wiring.
Sasquatch lists both of them:> https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... berty-crd/
Author:  GordnadoCRD [ Thu May 23, 2019 11:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-Tank Pump wiring
You can snag a gasser loom from a wrecking yard and modify it,
You can modify your existing unit (requires terminal ends)
You can order the connectors and build your own from scratch.

but, Since 05 and 06 are different..

You can buy a plug-and-play ready made loom from SasquatchParts.com

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/plug-and-play-in-tank-lift-pump-wiring-harness-for-jeep-liberty-crd/

Sasquatch Parts also sells the pump units as well, at a pretty competitive price, for a one-stop shop, and savings over shipping costs from RockAuto, etc.

See, what's right for you depends on on your priorities, budget, and a lot of other things we don't know.
The PnP loom is expensive, but, depending on your proficiency and available work time, it will save you anywhere from 4 hours, to a few days. If you don't have a lift, most of those hours (for the loom) will be spend either on your back underneath, or on your knees working under the carpet and sub-carpet insulation inside the left rear door, so make sure you have good kneepads.

Edit: Oops, WWDiesel got in ahead of me!..
Just for reference, I was going to add, Before the PnP loom was available, I removed my original harness, and modified it. This required me to source wire terminals from a wrecked Jeep, and a new outer connector (waterproofed type) for the sending unit.
I had a professional work space with a lift, etc, and yet had I had the PnP loom I would have easily saved 10-12 hours of driving, hunting, hiking, fiddlin, and diddlin.
Author:  WolverineFW [ Fri May 24, 2019 3:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-Tank Pump wiring
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=ht ... are_type=t

The original gmctd lift pump thread.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
Author:  timothyd [ Fri May 24, 2019 10:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-Tank Pump wiring
I am comfortable working with wiring and splitting the loom, I have an 03 gasser that I could steal the loom off of but I would rather just add the 2 wires needed since the ABS wires are already in the right spot.

So if I am looking at this right, I need the 829-10757692-L male connector, and the 829-15509075-L female connector.
How many of each will I need?
If I also understand correctly I need 2 lengths of 14gauge automotive wire (different color) one for hot, one for ground. The hot goes from the inside connector to the pump, the ground goes from a grounding location under the seat to the pump?
Author:  GordnadoCRD [ Sat May 25, 2019 2:41 am ]
Post subject:  Re: In-Tank Pump wiring
timothyd wrote:
I am comfortable working with wiring and splitting the loom, I have an 03 gasser that I could steal the loom off of but I would rather just add the 2 wires needed since the ABS wires are already in the right spot.

So if I am looking at this right, I need the 829-10757692-L male connector, and the 829-15509075-L female connector.
How many of each will I need? Two
If I also understand correctly I need 2 lengths of 14gauge automotive wire (different color) one for hot, one for ground. The hot goes from the inside connector to the pump, the ground goes from a grounding location under the seat to the pump? Exactly

If you go that route, I used a welding rod with the outer flux removed, and the leading tip fully rounded (no square shoulder). Use a drill and a bench grinder. it takes less than a minute.
behind that I used the best 3m electrical tape as a pulling sock.
I coated the outside of the whole thing with dielectric grease. The whole thing threaded up through the factory 2006 loom without any insulation damage.
It's easier to do if you pull the whole original thing out and work it on a bench.
Author:  WWDiesel [ Sat May 25, 2019 12:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-Tank Pump wiring
timothyd wrote:
I am comfortable working with wiring and splitting the loom, I have an 03 gasser that I could steal the loom off of but I would rather just add the 2 wires needed since the ABS wires are already in the right spot.
So if I am looking at this right, I need the 829-10757692-L male connector, and the 829-15509075-L female connector.
How many of each will I need?
If I also understand correctly I need 2 lengths of 14 gauge automotive wire (different color) one for hot, one for ground. The hot goes from the inside connector to the pump, the ground goes from a grounding location under the seat to the pump?

I simply bought 6 of each (male & female) since they are so cheap to have some spares in case I messed one up or needed one for any future wiring projects.
You will need one standard 1/4" ring type crimp on wire end terminal for the ground under the rear seat to the body.
Be sure and clean the paint off the ground location under the rear seat so you will get a good ground. I also used an electrical star type lock washer under the ring terminal to ensure a good connection.

The wiring is the hardest part of the upgrade. Dropping the tank, provided you have it very low in fuel, and installing the new pump assembly are pretty easy and straightforward.
I reused my OEM float arm on the new pump module, very easy to swap out. Also, be sure and clock the module in the tank as shown in the install instructions so your fuel gauge will work properly. :wink:
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